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  • #61
    Your track is coming together nicely Butch. Look forward to running on it this fall.

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    • #62
      I clamped the uprights to the base and set two sections of the top straightaway on them to see how it looks. I decided it was to high so I repositioned the uprights to sit between the crossmembers of the track sections which lowered the track surface 3 1/4". It looks a lot better and will be easier to build the inclines. It closes down the room to marshal a car but I think because the lower track surface is a 2 feet high it will still be easy to do because you won't have to get on your knees to get under the top track surface.

      My problem is, to find out if the uprights are positioned right for the lower track sections to sit in place I need to bolt them down and move the bottom sections back in place. Some of the crossmembers of the bottom sections might (and probably will) be right where the uprights are located which means I'll have to move the bottom sections again, unbolt the uprights and move them. When I move the uprights I'll have to alter the top sections to have a place to bolt them to the uprights. The whole thing is trial and error. This is taking a lot of time and a lot of thought to make sure I get it right. That and the fact that I am a 69 year old fat man with two knee replacements doesn't make for a speedy job. LOL

      Click image for larger version

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      • #63
        I do everything by trial and error. Since I have no patience, I usually just go with the error part. Looks great Butch. Your skills and patience are showing thru.
        Matt B
        So. In
        Crashers

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        • #64
          Great quality work with a lot of thought. Thanks for sharing.

          Rob.

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          • #65
            I got my uprights positioned so the bottom track surface slips between them. I only used five of the six uprights but still have to build more uprights to go up and down the inclines.

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            Last edited by SCC_Steve; June 21, 2020, 07:11 AM.

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            • #66
              I’ve been twisting, pulling, pushing, drilling, cutting and adjusting for four days now and I still can’t get that damn cap off my glue bottle. LOL

              I set the top level of the track on top of the uprights but didn’t like how it looked, so I unbolted the lower track sections and moved them out of the way to get access to the bolts holding the uprights in place. I moved the uprights to fit between the crossmember of the upper track sections and bolted them in place and moved the lower track sections back in place. When I tried to adjust them so everything would line up the some of the uprights were in the way of the lower track sections. So I had to unbolt everything and move some of the uprights again. When I got everything in place I bolted the two curved sections to the end of the top straightaway to start building the inclines only to find out I didn’t have enough angle on the uprights to make the track come down quick enough as it goes past the drivers stations. If it’s not low enough as it goes past the inside lane (yellow lane) the track will block the view of the car when it exits the esse’s and enters the lefthand turn to go under the top straightaway. You can see in this picture how high the track surface is as it starts past the drivers stations and how it's going to block the view.

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              • #67
                In this picture you can see that the track is now lower as it starts past the drivers. I think I'm still going to have to build the lower track surface up about 3 1/2" all the way through the lefthand turn going under the top straightaway so the yelow car doesn't disappear.

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                • #68
                  In this picture you can see how far off the straightaway is from connecting to the top straightaway. But after re-adjusting the lower track surfaces which required moving an upright again, which required taking everything apart again I finally got it within an inch of lining up with the top curve. So I'm going to slide the top straightaway down the uprights an inch so everything should line up. I'm still going to have to cut a small pie shaped piece of off the curved section because when I cranked in a little banking to come down the hill it changed the angle at the end of the curved piece.

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                  • #69
                    As a 69 year old with knees that are continually trying to kill me on stairs, and a woodworking slot car guy, I congratulate you once again on your admirable track design and execution. Clearly it will be worth the trials and troubles. And by the way, run really hot water over the glue cap, then turn it with channel locks. Then soak the cap in very hot water until you can brush the threads clear. 55 years of woodworking should provide answers to SOME problems, after all.

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                    • #70
                      I appreciate all the hard work your putting into this Butch, it is going to be a fun and fast track to race on!

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                      • #71
                        I applaud your very aggressive design and implementation of elevation changes. I hope you have a reliable track maintenance crew to keep the surface in good shape in inclement weather. I wouldn't want to encounter black ice on that steeply banked turn.

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                        • #72
                          Looks nice Butch! Are you going to be able to push this by yourself, or will it be a 2-man job to roll this around? Your first 24-hour race on this layout should provide a good drive.

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                          • #73
                            Hi Bill,

                            So far I can push it by myself with no problem.
                            I'm working on an adjustable upright to support the inclines. The top needs to adjust two different directions. I think I have it figured out.
                            Last edited by Pappy; Yesterday, 09:46 PM.
                            Butch

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                            • #74
                              I've been working on adjustable brackets to support the inclines. Here's what I came up with. It adjusts six ways, as you can see in the picture it rotates left and right, up and down. It caps the crossmember on the track to keep it in place. When all the brackets are adjusted the way I want them I'll use screws into the two sections to hold them in place so they can't get out of adjustment, draw a line straight up from the bottom section of the bracket and cut the top section off so I have a straight piece to nail my 1/8" plywood to to cover the brackets. I know I'm probably confusing you but you'll see what I mean when it's done.

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                              • #75
                                Here's an end view of the adjustable brackets. You can see how the socket allows the top piece of the bracket to rotate and line up with the crossmember of the track as it comes down the incline.

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