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New Routed Track Build

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  • #31
    I haven't made any progress on the track in the last few days because I'm still thinking about the best way to make my elevations. I think what I want to do is make temporary adjustable legs fastened to the cross-members of the track surface.

    They would be just like the two piece adjustable legs most track makers use. I'd screw them to the cross members, adjust them so the track surface is smooth going up and down the hill and then measure and replace them with the permanent vertical supports.

    The reason I want to replace them is because when they are fastened to the cross members going up and down the hill they will be at an angle and I don't want that. I scaled it out and at 24" in elevation at a 5 degree angle they would be 2" out of plumb. Since I'm going to cover the supports with 1/8" baltic birch plywood I want them to be perfectly vertical so the joints look right.

    Any suggestions or tip are welcome.
    Butch

    Comment


    • mattb
      mattb commented
      Editing a comment
      All thread and some nuts and washers to adjust where you want, then put your solid vertical supports. Of course, I used a bottle jack!

    • Pappy
      Pappy commented
      Editing a comment
      Matt, I drank my bottle of Jack and threw the bottle away. Who knew. LOL

    • mattb
      mattb commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll donate a bottle Monday.

  • #32
    The track surface is all rough cut. I still have to cut some straightaways and the turn right before you start down the long top straight to size. I'm going to start fitting things together in the middle of the bottom back section and work my way around each end fitting the straights in as I go.

    Click image for larger version

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    • #33
      This is a close up of the esses. I have the lanes drawn out and you can see how the turns will have to be connected with a small straight as they the slot goes from left to right and back again because there is less gutter on the inside of the turn than on the outside of the turn. I'm going to use one of flexible strips made to route slots to make the transition. The car should flow very smoothly through the turns.

      Click image for larger version

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      • #34
        In this picture you can see how far the bottom sections stick out from the top sections. Should make for some good technical racing. This will also make it easier to turn marshal the bottom sections, you won't have to reach as far under the top sections.

        Click image for larger version

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        • #35
          This end is connected to the top straightaway and comes downhill two feet as it goes past the drivers stations.

          Click image for larger version

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          • #36
            Are you making the lane spacing for both 1/32 and 1/24 scale cars ?

            Comment


            • Pappy
              Pappy commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes, the lane spacing is 4". The lane spacing on the old American tracks in the 60's was 4". They went to 4 1/2" lane spacing when they started running wing cars.

          • #37
            Looks like it is going to be a nice track when you are done

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            • #38
              Butch is one heck of a carpenter, now if he could figure a smart phone!

              I really look forward to racing on that track when it’s done.

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              • #39
                When the time comes you need a smart phone to do woodworking I'll learn how to use one.
                Butch

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                • #40
                  Butch, your track is coming along great. It'll be done before you know it. I'm a person who doesn't want to be contacted 24/7, so I don't carry a cell phone. In 70+ years, I haven't missed much or been late for much of anything because I didn't have one.

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