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AFX Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe Blue LIMITED EDITION Mega-G+ front axle issue?

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  • AFX Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe Blue LIMITED EDITION Mega-G+ front axle issue?

    I just bought a NIP AFX Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe Mega G+ and while I love the looks and detail of this badass 1960s muscle car, it's front axle is installed such that the wheels can float left to right almost 1/8". This looks bad and hinders handling. It's weird because if I push the wheels/axle assembly to one side it lines up perfect with the body when it's pushed all the way in, however when pushed to the opposite side that wheel sticks out from the body about 1/16". Chassis and body look fine, body clip is installed and lined up proper on chassis. Body mount clip pockets look fine. It seems as though the wheels are not pressed onto axle fully and that one front wheel must have excess material on the backside that keeps it from moving in closer to the chassis and under the fender like it ought too. Looking at the front axle ends they are both pressed into the wheels very close to same amount and axle ends are almost flush with front side of wheel centers. Anybody else seen this, what did you do to fix it? Logic says press the wheels on farther and trim end of axle if needed so as to not poke out the end of the wheel. I can post a picture later if that helps.

    What's a quality wheel press/puller for these? I'd like to buy one that will hopefully cover all my HO needs, Scale Engineering?


    More T-Jet oriented and mostly sold out
    Last edited by SlotCat; June 24, 2020, 01:41 PM.

  • #2
    This was brought up somewhere a while back.
    If I recall, the front axle is fairly soft and attempts to press the wheels on farther resulted in bent axle.
    I’ve wondered I’d the axle could be split, shortened, and then spliced inside a piece of tubing.
    Last edited by WB2; June 24, 2020, 03:48 PM.


    • #3
      If I recall correctly the front axles are knurled, if you pull off a wheel the axle hole will be enlarged. If you shorten the axle you would have to remove much of the knurled part and the axle would be a loose fit in the wheel. Actually I have had good luck pressing the wheels further on using a vise. A high quality wheel press could be used as well, but great care has to be taken to keep everything straight. A number of people have complained that both the front and rear axles can come bent right out of the box. I had to replace a couple of rear axle assemblies.


      • #4
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5941.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.60 MB ID:	42850 WB2 I recalled this discussed somewhere before but didnt' find it, thanks for the link.

        RichD dangit I hate knurled instead of splined axles lol. I'll buy the Scale Engineering wheel press and give it a go, clear body Cobra looks great but this front wheel/axle problem is annoying. Just rechecked and appears neither axle is bent on mine, it's the left front that sticks way out even if pushed all the way in. Right side pushed in aligns with body perfectly. Looking at chassis all looks proper and symmetrical, wheels same, kinda looks like maybe body mounts slightly askew when body was molded, weird. I can see tapered end of front axle on right side, maybe can pull it apart carefully with wheel puller, shorten axle, regrind pointed tip and press it back on. Just in case I found some delrin front wheels with axles on Ebay, but they are not quite same as stock 5-spoke design.

        Not looking for brass weighted or smaller diameter wheels/tires at this point, just good stock type replacements. Several of my set F1 cars wheels are also wobbly (not pressed on straight). What are y'all using for Mega G+ axle/wheel replacements?

        Edit: Picture added.
        Last edited by SlotCat; June 25, 2020, 01:36 PM.


        • #5
          The axles are knurled to make it more difficult for small children to pull off the wheels and choke on them. What keeps them from choking on the entire car? Regular Tomy SG+ front end assemblies would probably work. I think the older Mega G cars also had knurled axles, but I am not positive about that.


          • #6
            Agreed on the knurling/kids, what happened to personal responsibility and proper parenting...ah don't get me started on that lol. Thanks for the axle suggestions, I'ma searching.

            BTW are there any other problem cars like this short wheelbase, ie, GT40 front axle?

            Ordered parts, needed grey but black is close and I can paint the wheels whatever color I want with a tiny brush and some Tamiya paint:
            Tomy Super G+ Front Axle Assy - Black $2.00 USD 3 $6.00 USD
            Tomy Mega G Plus Front Tires $1.50 USD 2 $3.00 USD
            Tomy Mega G+ Front Axle Assembly - Black $2.00 USD 2 $4.00 USD
            Tomy Mega G Plus Guide Pin $1.50 USD 1 $1.50 USD
            Last edited by SlotCat; June 25, 2020, 06:28 PM.


            • #7
              It is possible that the body is part of your problem. If you turn the car on its roof and center the rear axle do the front wheels protrude by the same amount on both sides? If not there must be a problem with the body mounts. If that was a common problem with the Cobra body I expect that we would have heard about it by now. The expensive fix is to buy another body, the cheap, but more labor intensive fix, is to remove the original mounts and replace them with home made ones.


              • #8
                Hi Slot Cat!

                Yes. Please lets see a centered picture from the bottom AND perhaps a couple of macros shots of both the chassis and body mounts, as well as the front axle/wheel area. We're looken' for some flash, a foreign object, or definitively determining what is jacking things askew.

                At the point that yer replacing a bunch of parts, I'd do it up in the period and convert to some Halibrands, then some good silis, and o-rings.


                • #9
                  Great suggestions, I've turned it on it's roof and chassis seems pretty square in the body, ever so slightly off, but not enough to create this bad of a front axle/wheel problem. Thought about buying another body or a 1.5" NIP rolling chassis, but instead bought a tire puller and press with caps and stuff from Scale Engineering. I'm going to try pulling wheel off, trim axle end, round the end slightly and press the wheel back on very carefully, if that fails I've got spare wheel/axle sets enroute and if that's a no go, then I'll replace axle, wheels and tires. Thought about Viper wheels with o-ring tires but don't want slammed ride height, maybe cut my own axle replacement, I've got piano wire already and was told that front axle is very soft metal and 0.047" (I'll put calipers on it to confirm).

                  Broke in the motor the other night, took it for a spin and handling is terrible, not surprised though. Also noticed that one pickup shoe touches front first, even though when sighted from the side, the shoe angles look the same. Body looks great, but will have to see once I get it apart. Was going to buy a matching light metallic blue version, but pictures looked like it had same front axle issue, so I passed on it for now.

                  I'll try to post a couple pictures, flash or something would be logical problem, but I didn't see any, will look again.

                  Ooooh silver Halibrands would look the part, where to buy these please? IIRC Viper has replacement rear axles that will fit.
                  Last edited by SlotCat; June 29, 2020, 12:30 PM.


                  • #10
                    “ Was going to buy a matching light metallic blue version, but pictures looked like it had same front axle issue, so I passed on it for now.”
                    Forget the axle problem and buy the car. Pretty soon the Daytona Cobras will turn into unobtanium like the GT40s and prices will skyrocket. Heck, buy two. Buy 20 if you need to finance a college education for the kids.


                    • #11
                      Unfortunately you're probably correct, however all my cars will get run, can't afford to have unopened shelf queens lol. Shoulda bought them when I saw them at LHS but was into 1/32 scale on wood tracks and didn't care as much, oops. 😕


                      • #12
                        If you can jig it up, soak the wheel in some hot water before you pull it. It's an old trick for stubborn plastic hubs from the land that time forgot. Works great on those shrunken, petrified rear Tuffones wheels, and the original AFX fronts that you cant get a puller on. Might help you mitigate the carnage!