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Model Murdering

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  • #61

    As a reminder because it's been years ... and for those that dont follow my schtick, I typically start with some gnarly road kill. Here's a link to some of the cut n paste action from the way back:

    Due to the trickerous nature of macro photography, I include a scale-ometer from time to time; in order to keep perspective.

    The flame base is Tamiya yeller. The delicious is Tamiya Ferrari red. Both lacquers buried in enough Tamiya clear to make most of my mistakes disappear.

    I spent most of time keeping the vintage roof detail intact during the alterations. Shortened, sectioned, chopped, and integrating the doors and drip edges.

    A Tyco 440 crown hides under that rear deck. Running clearance in the thousandths, to keep the deck below the rear window ... whew!

    The flame accent (sparks) is Pactra Inca Gold. It is shot before the flame stencils are removed to apply the clear. The model is back masked, save for the immediate area near the flames. It is not shot at the same pressure and liquid volume as the bulk color films. The delivery setting is carefully adjusted, and test shot prior, to ensure the effect. Ya only get one shot.

    Wheels are Vincent chrome Fuchs. Tires are by Heister.

    The glass is whittled from and AFX Woody insert. Wet sanded and 3 stage polished prior to fitting. It goes somewhat unnoticed here because of the deep chop and overhanging front visor, but I still like the glass to have the depth that pulls the eye in.

    I like my little cars to feel like big cars, so the belly is 032" brass. Motor is a vintage Tycopro box geeked up with 440 parts then mated to a 440 gear set. Silky smooth, fast and a low CG, it's a joy to run. I've really been enjoying this one on the track. We need a bath already!

    A new trick is a "braid holder" that clamps to the insulator plate. Sorta stolen from engineer and racer Gerry Cullan; then perverted to fit my needs. Credit where credit is due. Some old G-plus shoes are used here, but any modern shoe will fold right over and crimp. Next up is his non-soldered version, where the braid simply slides in.

    Thanks for looking guys!


    Last edited by Model Murdering; August 20, 2021, 12:20 AM.


    • Zcarfan
      Zcarfan commented
      Editing a comment
      That is some slick stuff there!

    • sweet
      sweet commented
      Editing a comment
      Again! I'm at a loss for....WHAT ARE THOSE THINGS CALLED??......Oh... "words"

  • #62
    Sheeesh! That's some whole nuther level stuff. Any chance you could post a pic of the topside of the chassis and the pickup system you've built there? Very, very nice work!


    • #63
      Never mind, I just back tracked in the thread and found out what I was wondering. Some very interesting ideas in there.



      • #64
        Amazing craftsmanship!!


        • #65
          Black Camaros ...

          Maybe not a money ball model, but the black T-jet 'Maro is still a cult classic. Ordinarily these get tossed aside, but here they get new life.
          At a glance the pillars are crushed. Closer inspection reveals that the rear wheel wells have been cut at all four corners. The rear bumper was hand grenaded in. The screw posts are shrunk. The bottom back light trim is dinged. The underside of the roof is gouged up from a screwdriver used to pry the glass out when it was culled.

          The damage is cleaned neatly and well grafts (from and AFX Shadow) are matched and bonded. We dont care what they look like otherwise. The idea is to let them fully harden, so's to be able to handle the whole body when sculpting them to shape. Leverage is your friend!

          No fuss. Folks try to smear goop around at full strength. Rotsa ruck! The idea is to have it flowable, so that lays out and in on the first touch. If it doesnt transfer to the work piece it is insufficiently reduced.

          The through and through pic helps me keep some semblance of symmetry from side to side. I leave everything wet cut as seen, prior to a rough buffing to look for minor blems.

          An annoying little knicktoid. Left unattended, that'll spoil the party.

          The first pass is always ugly and brutal. Lots of flash and fuzz ... but is gives the file something to follow.

          The first pass on the green house is really about making sure the windshield opening is even across, and that the glass fits without hassle. Note that I'm feathered along the leading edge, back along the drip edges, and down around wiper bin.

          This will have to harden up for a week or so, at which point I'll scuff around a bit with some 1200 and eyeball the hardest part ... the vent post installation. In the mean time I'll work underneath to finish the inside of the well grafts, the bumper bracket, and the roof.

          Stay tuned, and thanks forstopping by, this one will drag on a bit.


          • #66

            The black Camaro is in the rough buff state, and a stage more. Darker colors need a deeper polish to bring up the flaws.

            I like to let any dabs n daubs cure fully during this stage of the restoration. It's very easy to light these areas up with the buffer. Once it's scorched you have to start over.

            Still a ways to go.


            • #67
              Ariel reconnaissance of D-Day.

              A-pillars go in first thing. The vent posts go in last due to their delicate nature.

              After the rough buff, it's not unusual for me cut back areas that still need attention.

              Cleaving bulk stock is one way to make the thinner, lineal pieces of good density that are required for vent posts. A good uniform chunk-let is required. A smoothly cut part with good clean ends makes all the difference in placement and finishing.

              Obviously they are ungodly tiny, so one has to pick the right day and have a clear head. I always make extra. A bit larger than actually required, thinning to the final size happens after installation.

              The insert points on the body are pre-wet with small dots of black goop, and the vent posts are carefully fumbled into position. They tend to stick some what in place; and are carefully manipulated into their final location, by careful nudging and prayer. It isnt uncommon to have to re-wet as you proceed, in order to keep it sticky but movable; rather than dried, stuck askew, and just out of place.

              Once the position is final and they have flashed off, similar to sweating a plumbing fixture, the graft is gently washed in. Assuming the viscosity is correct, the solids go into any voids, and the volatiles wick away and evaporate across the broader surfaces. A gentle flick of the brush blends the immediate sill area and smooths away any irregularities.

              Following some careful blade work to crisp up the vent post origins, I'll make a special micro sanding board to smooth them off.


              • #68
                Here's a resto project I've had squirreled away for years. I spent an afternoon getting the windshield out in one piece, and removing all the factory accent paint.

                Some one had tried to sneak in some partial Riviera wells and gave up. I ended up cutting the quarters fully out to clean up the carnage.

                Strangely, the donor's rear wells were uncut. Go figure. Although I cut them out square, I round the fit of the inside corner, so's not to have to sand in a box canyon.

                After the initial bonding pass, I ran some filler along the inside seams, and started touching up the rear screw post.

                Once the inside filler pass flashed off, I worked some thinner wash into the outside seam to prevent any air pockets or bubbles, and get a head start on outside filler passes. Per usual, I'll revisit this in a week-ish.

                Thanks for looking!


                Preoccupied seems to be the mode I'm in of late. Still, a little slot car jones bursts through. Sometime you just have to make a minute, when you can.

                The graft was a bit tricky. Vertically beveled at the gate and rear tail light. We lost the El Camino script, but made the most of the mess that was (nt) there. The forward edge was simply abutted at the door shut.

                A dab here and there yet on this side. It had that weird diggie from the get go. The original was cut too close here, so I elected to firm up the surrounding area before coming back and tip toeing around the shrinkage. The color match is acceptable.

                I have the glass, but the bumpers appear to be from a Newrora example ....grrrr.

                The stock chassis doesnt thrill me. Looks like a good victim for the JAG conversion.


                • #69
                  The red El Camino has cured out enough for some cut n paste fun. The factory applied the surf boards with a large hole in the tonneau and goop. I finally decided to delete this feature/mess. I elected to go with the ultra rare, no hole, no surfboards, factory error car (wink wink).

                  I fiddle picked around to remove the bulk of the bonding and "find" the hole.

                  The surface splatter is removed, and the hole is expanded to a minimum size and uniform shape. Circles are easier to fix than rectangles or squares.

                  I weeded through some scrap to find a close match. the patch is thinned enough so that it lays in a bit short top and bottom. The graft is pre-wet, then pushed into place. Both sides are re-wet and color blended until the seam starts to disappear.

                  The next day, I followed up with a heavy pass of solids. After curing the excess will be bladed away for inspection. As the tonneau is painted the color match isnt critical, I still try to get it close.

                  Someone may look underneath.


                  • #70
                    I bounce around and keep a coupla restos going during my hot rod chaos. The 'Camino and the Camaro are going on at the same time. As one repair cures, I pick up the other. I dont always get things posted in timely fashion. Here's a link back to help ketchup.



                    • #71
                      What filler do you use?
                      Kevin T
                      London Ky


                      • #72
                        Love seeing the step by step process you do to bring these bodies back from the salvage pile!
                        Thank you for sharing!


                        • #73
                          Originally posted by Kevin t View Post
                          What filler do you use?
                          Hi Kevin, I use melted Aurora bodies.

                          Over the years I've acquired most of their colors.


                          • #74
                            A little more progress on the sectioned Model A.

                            The PTEG pick up arm proved a bit light in the latter half of the throttle, so I knicked one up from brass sheet.

                            The radius rods are made from a nicely plated, chubby, sewing pin I found at Wally. Faking the pie crust fronts using the T-jet skinny never gets old for me.

                            Loosely inspired by Nudder's avatar, I think I finally found the bottom of my lowering jones. A level lateral line, and just enough clearance for the pick up.

                            The Vincents dont have the quite the hub depth I prefer, The axle length will have to get pared down. The heavier arm settled the flighty track manners at the limit.
                            Last edited by Model Murdering; November 26, 2021, 07:24 PM.


                            • #75
                              The seasonal monsoons have decreed more cave time.

                              After twisting the neck off my last bottle of Testors Argent Silver, I finally got all the glass and debris strained out; then we touched up the accents on the black Camaro. Testors enamel jug paint reduced with lacquer thinner shoots nicely when ya finally get to it. Needless to say I wore more than I shot. Bumper's next!

                              The further I go the farther behind I get. 99% of the time I'm chopping and channeling one of these for fun. Occasionally I run into a version I dont have, so I flip the script and put one back together. This one came in a shovel full of Model A's I got a while back, and was set on the back burner. Someone clipped it's toenails back so that it could no longer hold the fender module. The index pegs in the rear arches were AWOL too. I had to come up with a chassis, which I managed to wring out of the last of my Specialty leavens.

                              I snatched a coupla chiclets from scrap standard blue Dino and grafted on some new retainers. The index pegs came from another nondescript chunk of scrap AFX. I save scrap by color, era, section, and shape. The screw post felt soft, and was refilled to mold new threads.

                              Thinking I was running the buffer around soon anyway, the hood was a bit rougher than I like, so I tip toed along the cowling, and cut it back with 1200. While I was picking the factory scunge left on the core support from the grill, things didnt sound right. A dead tone from your tooling is always a crack, or an uncured area. Seen at 45 degrees on the driver's side hood front.

                              Miraculously I got the crack to open slightly, without busting out the entire left side cowling. Reduced filler was wicked in, and the hood panel was floated for color match. With any luck I'll recut it next week, and finally spot buff the hood. Rewetting and floating the whole driver hood panel keeps the color match.

                              I love a good impact crater. I finally came across a few more '63 Corvette parts to go with a wreck that Dennis had sent. Shown above are the jig sawed remnants of two sketchy Slate Vettes, which individually werent worth saving. The fenders n doors off one example will move to the the rear clip and hood of another.

                              Not much usable stock in reserve. Most of the T-Bird clip is heavily contaminated.

                              I fixed the back screw post last week so I could get the front and rear bucked up. This week I buzzed around with the dremel cut off disc, and roughly file fit the sections. Ordinarily I'd use the blade for accurate section work, as I dont recommend the dremel; simply because it's easy to get aggressive and make an un-repairable or sloppy mistake. The character of Slate is dry and brittle, so the stress/torsion inflicted by heavy blade work is prohibited. Old styrene is crispy crunchy and newer styrene is doughy and malleable, hence the care in tool selection.

                              The passenger side looks pretty cut and dried, even though it's held together with tape n prayer. LOL

                              As the door handle turns. I only had one good handle on the drivers side. This necessitated the whacky angled zipper across the horizontal body lines, instead of grafting at the B line. Usually certain death for straightness, but we'll see!