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  • Die Cast Conversions

    .The MAJORITY of you already know how to do this..This is for people that have no experience with mounting a body...These are some of the ways I do it. Not saying it's right or wrong, but its worked for me. ..I'm self taught (and still have a lot to learn).
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    Awhile ago I converted a number of die casts, mostly for my drag strip. Most of them were on an AW 4 gear chassis (with mounting handles cut off). I needed a number of equal cars, for people to race, and they were inexpensive to make, usually under $15 complete. There are numerous ways to convert die casts, each body and chassis can be different, depending on the wheelbase length, width of body, and choice of chassis... NYMODIFIEDS.COM sells a nice kit for converting a 4 gear, but they didn't come out with it until after I had already done mine....Anyway this is how I've done mine...If you've done any, or have a different method, feel free to post, with pics. There is no wrong way and any info would be appreciated.

    . ....About 90% of my cars use an Auto World 4 gear chassis. They have three wheelbase settings, larger rear wheels and tires and they're inexpensive... The rear wheels have a lot of extra "meat" on them, and to get the wheels INSIDE most die cast, it has to be removed to narrow the rear track. Often the front has to be narrowed also. This can be done a number of ways. You can remove the wheels and mount them on a spare axle, then put the axle in a dremel or drill, turn on and use a razor saw to remove the extra meat from the wheel. Or you can remove the wheel (from chassis) and sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, until you get the desired amount removed.
    NOTE: My cars with "narrowed" rear wheels were made for drag racing..They will run on a road course or oval, but because of the narrowed width won't be the best handling cars you own..But if you just like to cruise around the track with a very realistic looking car, they're fine.

    ....
    I'll start with a Hot Wheels 64 Ford..After the rivets have been drilled on the die cast, and body removed, the first thing I check is to see if the ORIGINAL die cast body posts line up with the FRONT mounting holes on the 4 gear chassis, if not, remove the metal post....Try not to mangle the rear metal die cast post (in case you could use them) , but if you do, no big deal...Many times I'll use the rear metal post on the die cast, they're easy to tap for a mounting screw...If you destroy the posts when removing the body, there's always resin posts, or you can make them out of styrene rod (tapped for a mounting screw)...The length of the front post determines how high or low the front is (I like mine low)..The rear mount is a piece of sheet styrene glued to the chassis, and the rear post screws to that.. The front post is cut to your desired length, then JUST the post is screwed to the chassis (NOT very tight)..A drop of super glue is placed on the top of the post and body is lowered in place (post must touch inside of hood). When dry carefully remove screw post, and reinforce the post with more super glue or epoxy..same for the rear, if using a resin post..Pics below will show cars with REAR resin post (Plymouth Cuda) or original Hot wheels post (64 Ford)..If I used the rear HW post, notice how the die cast chassis is cut (64 Ford).....Sorry for all the rambling on, here's some pics.

    64 Ford..Wheels have already been narrowed..Resin post is getting set and measured for cutting..NOTE: Front tires were replaced with O-ring style (not shown).
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    This is using the rear die cast post (tapped for screw)..notice how the die cast chassis is cut. A styrene piece is glued to chassis and used as a mount for screw.
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    Mounted
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    Plymouth Cuda used TWO resin posts.
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    EDIT: Found a pic to show what has to be removed from rear wheel..can also see how the rear mount is done..This pic is from a Tjet Super Modified I mounted to an AW 4 gear.

    Remove what is between the red lines, to tuck the wheels in...Yellow circle shows where styrene tab was added to chassis, for rear post.

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    Last edited by sweet; October 21, 2019, 01:49 PM.
    LARRY

    "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

  • #2
    These cars were all done in the same manner.

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    Last edited by sweet; October 21, 2019, 12:07 PM.
    LARRY

    "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

    Comment


    • #3
      This one also used an AW 4 gear. I did a front styrene post, but dremelled a shelf in the rear for the chassis to sit on. Only uses the front screw.

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      LARRY

      "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the info!
        Well done.Every boy,no matter how old,wants to race his Hot Wheels!
        This is a perfect way to do so..

        Rusty
        Rusty

        Comment


        • sweet
          sweet commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks again Rusty...Not difficult...but it's instant gratification..No paint, No decals. (lol)

      • #5
        Using a Mega G or G+ is different. You can't uses a screw post, or fabricate side mounting tabs inside of the die cast (Die cast don't have any stretch to get the tabs in the chassis slots)...So, you can use two sided tape on the inside of the die cast...This is NOT my favorite way to mount...But hey, these are only toys..

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        Ford GT..(way before AFX came out with one)
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        LARRY

        "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

        Comment


        • noddaz
          noddaz commented
          Editing a comment
          That Cougar is NICE!

      • #6
        Same with the Tyco 440x2. Two sided tape..Again, NOT my favorite way to mount a body.

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        LARRY

        "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

        Comment


        • #7
          To be honest, I do have reservations about posting these. Of all the HO members here, I am the least knowledgeable. I can chop, section, paint and mount just about any body I want to do. But I couldn't build an HO chassis or motor, to save my life. I have a ten foot oval, so I don't need my cars to be faster than they are. That might change soon though....To those that decide to "convert", I hope you have fun!
          Last edited by sweet; October 21, 2019, 08:31 PM.
          LARRY

          "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

          Comment


          • #8
            Nice work!
            Team SCANC
            Woodland Trace Raceway - SlotZuka - Bent Tree Raceway
            OFI - Buena Vista Motorsports Park - Slotkins Glen
            Leadfinger Raceway

            Comment


            • sweet
              sweet commented
              Editing a comment
              Thank you.

          • #9
            This is a die cast thread. I don't want to confuse people with resin bodies...But the vast majority of resins were molded from HWs...When you buy a resin, they don't tell you the mounting handles on the AW 4 gear have to be snipped off. Also don't tell you the wheels have to be narrowed either...And in my case, I often don't like the way they sit. Here's a 55 Chevy, wheels narrowed, using the mounts that it came with (FRONT post and shelf in the rear).. Using the same method as the Star Wars Pro Mod (posted above), you can set it anyway you like.

            A lot of what I've learned from mounting die casts, can be applied to resin bodies too.

            This is using the mounts from the resin caster.. Just to high for me.

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            Using a shorter front post and thinner rear shelf in the rear..makes it sit the way I like.

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            LARRY

            "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

            Comment


            • #10
              You did a really nice job on these custom HO slot cars. Is the extra weight of a die-cast body noticeable in regards to handling of the slot car?
              BRS Hobbies - Online shopping for slot cars in all scales, RC crawlers & more!

              Comment


              • sweet
                sweet commented
                Editing a comment
                Not as much as I thought, but yes. All the Hot wheels with the narrowed wheels were made for my drag strip. I have videos of drag racing, between a die cast bodied AW 4 gear, and one with a resin body, same chassis. They're pretty evenly matched, with the die cast sometimes pulling away the last three feet...Like I said these were for drags or "cruising" on your road course...I have done some ERTL vintage modifieds, for the oval track..Wheels are not narrowed, and they handle surprisingly well. I'll be posting those in my HOval Cars thread soon. The Tyco and AFX have to be run at lower voltage to be manageable...Thanks!
                Last edited by sweet; October 21, 2019, 01:33 PM.

            • #11
              I have to add this one. A Matchbox Mustang, from the early 80's. It was my son's favorite die cast. He beat the snot out of it, when he was a kid. He's in his mid 40's now..So when we race, he can beat the snot out of it all over again, almost forty years later...The wheels did not need to be narrowed on this one.

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              LARRY

              "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

              Comment


              • #12
                I have this one posted in the HOval Cars thread. It's a plastic bodied Hot Wheels die cast(?)..HW "Maximum Leeway". I enjoy working with the plastic bodied Hot Wheels, or Matchbox. They're light weight, sturdy, and fun to chop up and customize...This one, the body is completely stock. This was one of the easiest ones I've done...No narrowing of the wheels, and using the original rear post...Again this completely plastic, and on an Auto World 4 gear chassis.

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                LARRY

                "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

                Comment


                • #13
                  I've been asked: "How can you tell if a HW's has a plastic body?"..Sometimes it's difficult just by looking at them. There's a few ways. The modern day HW's will usually have a metal body, WITH a plastic chassis, OR a plastic body with a metal chassis...Another way is to check the rivets on the bottom. If it's a metal body the two rivets will be two different colors...If it's a plastic body both rivets will be the SAME color..I found that this method works about 99% of the time....Again..Have fun!

                  These have plastic bodies (chassis is metal).

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                  The rivets are BOTH the same color.

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                  These are metal bodied.

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                  Rivets are two different colors

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                  LARRY

                  "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    One of my favorites. I wish I didn't sell it..HW Rig Storm. Plastic body, so I was able to mount it using the side mounts on a Mega G+ chassis.

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                    LARRY

                    "OLD PEOPLE NEVER MAKE MISTAKES"...We just spend the rest of our lives paying for the ones we've made when we were younger..

                    Comment


                    • #15
                      Nice work Sweet,Real nice and thanks for the info on getting here.

                      Comment


                      • sweet
                        sweet commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Thanks...Your videos are informative and entertaining, glad to see you made it over.
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