HOval Cars

[sweet]

I am not an HO expert. I build "simple" cars to run on my small 10' oval. My cars range from factory styrene, plastic bodied Hot Wheels, resin, and diecast conversions. If you have any HO oval cars, feel free to post them in this thread, finished, unfinished..I'd love to see them...My first post on the new forum, so I'll try a few to see if I figured it out.


Tyco 57 Chevy on a 440x2 chassis


Chopped and sectioned Hot Wheels plastic bodied Cockney Cab..Mega G chassis


3D printed Whelen modified...Mega G+ chassis

[sweet]

I started working on a Tjet Willys body, fitted to an AW 4 gear chassis. I liked the way it looked, but I've done so many AW 4 gears, that I decided to change it up..So the last two pics are on a Mega G chassis..I have an obsession with making cars as low as I can get them...Paint and decals are coming.




Fitting it for an AW 4 gear chassis


On the AW 4 gear...I decided to change it up and fit it to a Mega G chassis...last two pics..I'll post pics when finished.

[Austin]

Really like the looks of

the 3D printed Whelen modified...Mega G+ chassis . Do you run with the magnets or do you remove them?

[sweet]

Austin, I still have the magnets in...Never tried a G+ without them. I've been doing a number of G and G+ cars, maybe I should try one without mags..That 3D body is STURDY.

[sweet]

When I said "simple"..this is the definition. This is a plastic bodied Hot Wheels, Maximum Leeway. It's been released a number of times under different themes, and colors. I bought a bunch a few years ago @ 0.94 each...This one, the body is untouched. No paint, no decals. It's mounted to an Auto World 4 gear (they run great at 22V). I used a resin post in the front and tapped the existing (original) post in the back. I made a styrene tab for the rear screw, glued to the end of the AW chassis...This is the way I do 90% of HW cars, whether they're plastic or metal (I'll start a thread soon on metal HW conversions)....Plastic body HWs are great to work with. They're just as light weight as factory styrene, or an aftermarket resin body. They're perfect for chopping up and customizing...If you make a mistake, throw it away, you're only out about $1...This car with a new chassis cost me less than $13 to make.

[ourwayband]

Always enjoyed seeing your builds!!

[sweet]

Thanks Rusty

[RichD]

HOCOC has a number of classes for oval type cars, here are a few of mine.

[sweet]

Rich, It was because of your cars, that I decided to go HO....HOCOC hands down build the best HOval cars there is (my are no comparison)....Your Whelen mods are on a Mega G+..still have magnets? If not how do they run?..What Volts are you running them at?...Thanks for adding them.

[sweet]

This was a plastic bodied HW "Boulevard Bruiser" . Cut and lowered to a late model short tracker...On a Mega G+..Body is clipped to use the original side mounting slots. This is a handful on a small oval


Original Hot Wheels with plastic body.






Clipped to use side mounts on the Mega G+

[Norman]

Very cool cars guys!!

Can't imagine running Mega G+ cars without magnets unless the track voltage is turned way down.

[ourwayband]

OK,got to get in on the fun!
Hot Wheels plastic body,Jack Hammer.
Mounted on a AW 4 gear,Mags removed,fun to run!

[sweet]

Looks GOOD!....Cheap FUN! (lol)

[Model Murdering]

Sweet: ".....This is the way I do 90% of HW cars, whether they're plastic or metal (I'll start a thread soon on metal HW conversions)....Plastic body HWs are great to work with. They're just as light weight as factory styrene, or an aftermarket resin body. They're perfect for chopping up and customizing...If you make a mistake, throw it away, you're only out about $1...This car with a new chassis cost me less than $13 to make."

More "how to's " ? Please do!

At 13 bux a build, thats some serious "fun value" per unit. 22 volts ... YOU BETCHA! Four gears dont even start working right until 20v.

[sweet]

MM..The BLUE dirt late model above..0.94 for the body, and $11.79 for an AW 4 gear (they come alive @22V)..Just having some CHEAP fun!

[sweet]

Rusty, I never got that one, don't know why...Whenever I do one, I usually use "Paint" program to chop or section on the computer before I cut it up..The Jack Hammer would work nice for one I have in mind. I cut this 59 Chevy wagon using paint program (I know there's better programs, but that's all I have)..Thanks for posting that, I'll have to pick one up.




Never really finished this one...but you can see, how I planned it and then chopped it.

Here's how it turned out so far.



My cars don't have a lot of detail. Because I'm cheap, lazy, and I beat the snot out of them...and I'm not that "skilled"..

[ourwayband]

Thanks,good info here!

[RichD]

The HOCOC SK Modifieds do use the AFX Mega G+ chassis with magnets. We found that with some chassis the magnets can be closer to the track rails than others, so a minimum clearance is specified in the rules. We do run some of our races on tracks with copper braid, so the pickup shoe tension needs to be reduced somewhat.

[sweet]

Thanks Rich

[sweet]

I was asked by an old 1/24 scale slot friend, who I had not seen in over 50 years, to convert some ERTL die cast cars to slot. He's supposed to make a replica of Lebanon Valley Speedway in upstate NY. (hasn't yet)..He supplied the die cast, and I supplied the AW 4 gear chassis... After I made a bunch, NYMODIFIEDS.COM came out with a nice kit that makes them look even more realistic. If he gives me the money, I'll get the kits.....They run very well for being a die cast..Not the fastest in the world, but when you get 4 of them running on a small oval, it's Saturday night in the 60's.

HOCOC has a nice class of Jalopy racing.. Hopefully RichD will put a few up.

[ourwayband]

Those sure have the look!!!

[sweet]

They are fun..and my "famous" last words..They're cheap too!