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Aurora Model Motoring Red Racing oil consistency and odor?

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  • SlotCat
    replied
    Thanks for all the help, guys!

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  • BIG E
    replied
    If it smells like Wintergreen... it's probably spiked with Marvel Mystery Oil. Appropriately named!
    Be careful what you buy, but even an original Aurora bottle with a clean label is worth a few bucks, right?
    Enjoy! -- Ernie

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  • Model Murdering
    replied
    Overtime the red oil separated in the jar if aged sufficiently. One part looked like Vaseline, and the other looked like Marvel Mystery oil. If you set the jug on a sunny window sill you could could stir it back to near its original consistency, assuming you hadnt used all the oil off the top when it was dis-incorporated. We used the more gelatinous part for the armature and the oilier part for the gear rack.

    Performance oils are now available, and everyone has their favorite. Im partial to the distilled breath of a virgin standing in the full moon during leap year, but it's hard to come by. Meaning that ANY oil is better than NO oil. Rich mentions the squeal of death with good cause. T-jets are thirsty little tar burners, and as such have a high service interval. Without lubrication, they can flare up and destroy themselves in an instant. If it squeals, stop immediately and lubricate the cause.

    The dilemma is that we need something fairly lightweight because of all the mechanical monkey motion that needs to be as freewheeling as possible; but you also want said lubricant to stay put in the more heavily loaded areas, so it also has to be non sling to boot.

    Personally? I bagged the red-oil cult, although I have some of the nostalgic goo on the display shelf. The smell does bring back memories. The best money spent is on the applicator. A good needle oiler is really not optional, because for as thirsty a design as the pancakes are; they are equally susceptible to comm fouling from over oiling. I use a black moly assembly lube for the armature bore and rear axles, and a light viscosity synthetic multi weight for the rest.

    The most important thing for any slot car that has been dormant for a while, is to finger roll the drive wheels before applying current, especially the pancake designs.
    Last edited by Model Murdering; January 9, 2020, 07:11 PM.

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  • RichD
    replied
    Original MM red oil is rather thick as you have said. Originally it was not quite so thick, apparently it tends to gel as time goes by. A number of imitation products have appeared over time, Thunder Oil comes to mind. The original Aurora Thunderjets were fussy about the oil that you used, especially where the lower end of the armature shaft fits into the chassis. If you used the wrong oil you were likely to get the dreaded squeak of death in the middle of a race. I imagine that the formula for the Aurora oil is lost in the mists of time. There is still a little NOS oil left, even after all these years, but people have been known to refill the original bottles with some bogus concoction.
    I still have a bottle of the real thing and for years I reserved it just for that critical lower armature shaft spot. For some time however I have been using Superlube and that has never let me down.

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  • SlotCat
    started a topic Aurora Model Motoring Red Racing oil consistency and odor?

    Aurora Model Motoring Red Racing oil consistency and odor?

    I just bought what I thought was genuine NOS Aurora Model Motoring Red Racing oil to replace the jar I had as a kid. However, the jar I had back when was kinda thick almost like petroleum jelly, this bottle is thin oil-like consistency and has an odor like oil of wintergreen! What should it be like?
    Last edited by SlotCat; January 9, 2020, 12:38 AM.
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