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If the car does not have a great deal of grip applying full power suddenly will result in a lot of wheel spin. If the tires have a lot of grip the front of the car could lift resulting in a deslot or loss of power or you could get some wheel hop coming off the line. I guess that it would be easy enough to hook up something like a door bell button to see how that works, But I expect that some sort of controller would be better. I have not done any drag racing in a very long time, but I would start out with a electronic controller with the sensitivity turned up. For cars that want to lift, spin the tires or have wheel hop I would dial in some choke if the controller was the type where the choke would be bypassed at full throttle.
I didn't mention cars types, however I did say all motor types which I thought would cover the gamut. The only time I've ran an HO car was two weeks ago on a AW drag strip. Not quite sure what you mean by type of car. Would that refer to chassis, motor or body style (Camaro, Willys).
I was referring to scale mostly
In general terms most resistance drag controllers are going to be 1 or 2 ohms for 1/24 and 1/32 cars HO I have no experience with not sure
I used a ProfessorMotor commercial diode controller with stock 1/32 to 1/24 group 20 and everything in between
If you want to get going right away an on/off switch will work but the millisecond any controller goes from no power to full power can affect the launch of a car off the line
This is where what type of cars are you racing becomes part of the equation. The more powerful the car the more important the control of it becomes
I was imagining this was for /32 or 1/24 scale too. Not sure the issues mentioned apply as much to HO scale where there's much less mass (weight), lower CG, and the relative magnetic attraction is much greater. In this case maybe an on/off switch would be fine even though it wouldn't seem to be much fun from the driver's perspective.
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