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When I switched from the bigger scales to 43rd scale one of my intentions was to build any model I would like to, and as scale as possible.
To be able to do that it was necessary to find a motor that was small enough to fit almost any car – no matter if inline, side - or anglewinder driven.
But it should have enough power to be competitive.
After some tests it was clear that the GO - / SCX – sized motors are too big.
So I began to search in China...
Soon I found a motor that was exactly what I needed – at least regarding the dimensions:
15x12x10 millimeters.
The first problem was the tiny diameter of the arm shaft – 1 mm.
The next and more extensive one was the extreme number of differet voltages and rpm the various motors had.
Since the N 20 – motors are very cheap I began to buy different variations. A handful here, another one there and so on. Finally there were about 60 different motors lying around, none of them really usable.
I tried compromises like voltage reduction by resistors or diodes but all that was not really satisfying.
The motors had too low voltages, too high rpm but all in all they were not really as strong as I needed them to be as slotcar motors.
My next step was the search for Neodymium motors. Well, I found one quite soon. It was the only one at that time. Unfortunately it did not work reliably, started only at 6 volts, so not usable.
This procedure took part for more than three years.
Since I never wanted to build and run slotcars at any cost and using any motor that seemed to fit, no matter how big it was or what voltage or rpm it had, I did not do much for my hobby during that time.
Then I changed my attitude. I split my search.
- motors with strong magnets
- motors with an appropriate voltage, possibly 12 volts because this is the voltage I have been using for my whole slotracing career
- motors with appropriate rpm, possibly not more than ca. 25 000 at 12 volts to be able to test a lot of geardrive variants.
Then I found motors for 12 volts with ca. 26 000 rpm, but normal ceramic magnets.
Another problem was that he motors have to be able to take some loads. But most motors only have simple thin metal strips as brushes. Only a few were equippd with real carbon brushes.
Logically the best combination would be a motor with 12Volts, Neodymium magnets, ca. 25 000 rpm and carbon brushes.
Luckily all these tiny motors are really very cheap.
So my final decision was easy : Buy a pile of each of the different motors, disassemble them, put the usable, matching components aside and reassemble them to a new motor that would be exactly what I need.
Well, and so I got motors that are small, nevertheless strong, fast and reliable.
I am able to build almost any model now, no matter if open cars like LM or CanAm, Formula or any kind of touring cars, no matter if inline, sidewinder or anglewinder.
The final job was to adapt the motor shaft to the pinions. Since I let my gears make from brass after my specs they have a 1.5 mm bore. Fortunately there is matching telescopic brass tubing, so I can make sleeves myself and glue the pinions on the shaft then.
At last I have what I want !
The way was long, took a lot of patience. But it was fun and I learned a few new things.
And since all my motors are the same type and driven on the same voltage, I am able to compare my models really realistically because the basic condition – the drivetrain - is the same for all and is only being varied by the gear ratio.
I don´t even have the smallest intention to try other motors for „more power“ . So or so it takes quite some time to master a car up to its limits. So why putting in another motor ?
And now the funny part of the story begins: trying and testing.
To me it is proven now that a good adaptation between all parts, especially between motor and the rest, is the most efficient way not only to any kind of success, but above all to lots of fun.
I should have made this decision decades ago....
Roland
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