New Mineabea motor

[Barc 1]

I just got a second shipment of Mineabea motors, M1N10FB11H 2833KA

10x10 x 20 with a 1mm shaft 10 mm long. These are NOT square cans and the can corners are rounded, Mounting holes are on the same plane as the armature and are 8 mm apart.

Breaking is good, and seems on par with the earlier motors with BARC labels.. However the top end is much greater so caution is required.

Motor tested at 32,000 rpm @ 10 volts with no load

More feedback

Changed out a Barc Square can for one of these in my Martini Porsche. The extra rpm are not required on my track. I turned down the voltage to 8 volts and ended up turning laps times 0.15 quicker then the BARC square can at 12 volts.

I think these motors on a big track will track will yield quicker laptimes if there are some long straights in play. On my smaller track the extra rpm needed to be managed by dropping the track voltage to get the car in a happy place.

[taskak]

Thanks for the info Dan.

Got any link for these or any other motors you have used?

Cheers

[Barc 1]

just ebay sellers based in China. Use Mineabea in the search function and something will come up.

[pfuetze]

great info, Dan!

32krpm? yes, that´s much.

i do not think that so high rpm are needed on any 1/43rd track. On the Desmo, i like the Mabuchi FF050SK motors - 11170. they are rated 17.500 rpm @12V
when run on 14V, they are really, really quick. Always under 9 seconds, which is really quick. Running on 8/24 china gears, that´s the sweet spot to go around here.
with 14V you will get around 21.000 rpm

maybe i will take a look at those minebea motors, but i tried too many high rpms motors and there is not one that i like on my track. started from G9330, than the SlotcarExpress motors from Kim, as a box motor and as FF030 motor and one or two FF050 with 35krpm and one other as well.

i tend to like the milder motors and crank up the voltage, IMO they drive more smooth.
Always remember - "power is nothing without control" (from a Pirelli motor cycle tire ad in the 90s) ;-)

what controller do you use for those motors?

[munter]

How do you get around the 1mm motor shaft problem?

[Bill from NH]

I wonder if anyone has brass or steel tubing to reduce 2mm pinions to 1mm shafts?

[Barc 1]

I use 132 Carrera digital chips for power to each lane, and use Carrera digital controllers. Voltage control to each lane is therefor managed the same way through the Carrera power station that can give you 10 voltage steps from 8 to 14 volts.

These mineabea have a good braking effect which all other Micro motors fail to provide IMO, and when run at a voltage to deliver about 23 K they do find a sweet spot.

Munter

8 and 9 tooth nylon pinions with a 1mm bore are available on ebay, as are crowns and spur gears for scratch building these little cars.

All in, complete with bearings and a motor, each brass chassis is costing me about $5.00 to build. Detailed aluminum wheels with photoetched inserts will triple that price as I find the wheels can be the single biggest expense.

I also found it beneficial to learn how to cast my own urethane tires, and I wish there was a “ Paul Gage” of 143.

Cheers

Dan

[chrisguyw]

The "Micro Motor Warehouse" in the US sells 1mm bore Delrin pinions (Delrin is one of the better plastic materials for gears) ......10 for a buck !

[Barc 1]

Thanks Chris. Delrin is probably superior to all other materials. Very slippery nylon that has been in use in Model locomotives for years. It never needs lube and is really durable. I have often wondered why it has not been utilized more in the slotcar world.

Just order 9 and 11 tooth pinions which are hard to find. Looking forward to some new gear ratios to try.

[pfuetze]

How do you get around the 1mm motor shaft problem?

i´m using 2mm brass "pipe" with an inner diameter of 1.1mm
roughen the motor axle with 240 grit sandpaper, wash the pipe piece with alcohol to get any grease removed.
push the brass in the pinion and than put some CA glue on the motor shaft and some in the brass pipe. push on and turn to get an even distribution of the glue.
worked fine by now.

Dan - thanks for the info!

[chrisguyw]

Hi Bill, You can find the 2mm od. tubing in the K&S metric range......I have not looked for other potential sources.

[chrisguyw]

When 1mm bore pinions exist (and they are dirt cheap)......why bother "sleeving" other pinions with less than precise tubing......far too much chance of "runout" on the pinion.

[Bill from NH]

Thanks Chris for the "heads-up". I have 2 mm bore brass & steel pinions left over from the 70's. I was thinking about using some of my stock w/sleeves in order to get more ratios.

[Barc 1]

Wanted to hi-light Chris’s comment about “ Micro Motor Warehouse”. They have 9 and 11 tooth pinions with a 1mm bore. I ordered both, so will see how the order goes and report back. 9 tooth are rare, and I have never seen 11 tooth , 1mm bore pinions before so this is great. Opens up some more gearing options. Some 11 tooth pinions matched to the torquey Minebea square cans could offer up so more top end on this motor

[walker]

• chrisguyw commented
  Today, 09:00 AM
  
  
  When 1mm bore pinions exist (and they are dirt cheap)......why bother "sleeving" other pinions with less than precise tubing......far too much chance of "runout" on the pinion.

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If a tubing has an i.d. of 1 mm and the shaft fits snug, it ought to be precise, shouldn´t it ?
If the tubing you need doesn´t exist with a 1 mm bore - and in the Chinese market there only seem to exist two pinions 9 and 11 t - but 1.5 or 2 mm, you may either sleeve or do without.

Or you have all the pinions you need but the precision engineer does make minimum 1.5 mm bores, then you must sleeve.






But right, the most important basis for a well running geardrive is a precise 1 mm bore.

Roland

[chrisguyw]

There are plenty of pinions around with 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 mm bore,.....and so, you really should not have to sleeve too many pinions. (Check "Micro Motor Warehouse in the US for 1mm bore 9/11 T Delrin pinions).

"pfuetze" (in an above post) indicated that he was sleeving pinions to fit a 1mm motor shaft with 1.1mm id. tubing, this, I do not consider to be the ideal way to go from a precision perspective, especially given that 1mm bore pinions do exist and, are dirt cheap.

If quaility 1mm id tubing is available, then there are still issues with "sleeving", but again, with cheap 1mm pinions around, why take the risks.

I have sleeved many many pinions over the years, and there is always a reasonable risk of ending up with "runout" on the pinion.

[pfuetze]

chrisguyw i did not know about the "micro motor warehouse". i checked slotcar parts dealers, ebay and aliexpress. do those pinions have a modul of 0.5mm?
can you please post a link or send it to me?

thanks!
Peter

[walker]

#9.1

chrisguyw commented
Yesterday, 02:38 PM

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There are plenty of pinions around with 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 mm bore,.....and so, you really should not have to sleeve too many pinions.


Well, then bring me a series from 8 to14 t, please, with 1 mm bore in mod. o,4 .

(Check "Micro Motor Warehouse in the US for 1mm bore 9/11 T Delrin pinions).

As you see I prefer brass. I could have had made them in delrin, acetat, nylon or whatever as well but I use brass.


"pfuetze" (in an above post) indicated that he was sleeving pinions to fit a 1mm motor shaft with 1.1mm id. tubing, this, I do not consider to be the ideal way to go from a precision perspective, especially given that 1mm bore pinions do exist and, are dirt cheap.

The lash between gear and pinion in m 0,4 is around 0.5 mm. The lash in Peter´s sleeves´ bore is 5/100 mm. Don´t tell me this tiny "almost zero - gap" results in noticeable wobbling. It can´t, because the gap is evenly filled by the glue - this is called capillary action. So if you can wait until the joint is hardened, you won´t have any issue there.

If quaility 1mm id tubing is available, then there are still issues with "sleeving", but again, with cheap 1mm pinions around, why take the risks.

What risk ? I have all gears and pinions I want from brass. There is no risk.Using plastic gears is a much bigger risk.

I have sleeved many many pinions over the years, and there is always a reasonable risk of ending up with "runout" on the pinion.

I have been sleeving pinions since ca. 1974 now, and never had any issue. I simply work precise. My gears make no noises, are absolutely smooth and run round.
It takes some work of course and as well some practise with different tools and machines that are necessary for preparing the sleeves, but if I am ready to invest this into the quality of my models - why not then ?

BTW : Micro Motor Warehouse doesn´t offer anything else than all the Chinese traders. If you want more you have no choice but have the pin ions made. There are some firms who do it after your specs, from steel brass, POM or other but it´s not Chinese, i.e. not cheap..


Roland

[Barc 1]

Roland. I have never been able to source 1mm bore 11 tooth pinions from China, so was quite happy to find some.,,all I ever have found is 8 and occasionally 9 tooth pinions with a 1 mm bore.

[walker]

Oh yes Dan, this really is a reason to be happy !

Brass pinions seem to be rare, espaecially 1mm bore. I have been searching for around a decade and only found 8/9 t.
This was the reason that I returned to the firm that had made all gears / pinions for us in the late sixties up to the early eighties. Then the owner retired, his son first did not want to continue. But the crowd of railway modelers PLUS slotracers "convinced" him to continue ( you could hear them whining ).
And now the son as well thinks about quitting the job - he is 74 meanwhile...I am just thinking about a last and final order, too.