Controller Question ...............

[GoldGuy]

I'm running the same 130 motors as used in 1/32, but with vastly different gearing. My 35 ohm resistors type controllers are not suited, even when regulating the voltage. I was thinking of going with electronic controllers.
Any advice??

[Barc 1]

I chipped each lane with a Carrera car chip supplying the power. This allows me to use the Carrera controllers, and I can adjust the voltage to the track through the Carrera digital base. This set up works really well. For one throttle I stuffed all the electronics from a Carerra controller into a Parma handle to male a pistol grip.

Not much help I guess but chipping lanes has turned out well for me.

Peter can chime in, but I think he is using a parma controller.

[chrisguyw]

I'm running the same 130 motors as used in 1/32, but with vastly different gearing.

Hello, How vastly different are you talking ??..............while the smaller dia. rear tires on a 1/43 car will be happy with a bit Taller (lower numeric) ratio when using typical 130 type motors, there is a limit, as the motors do like to spin to be efficient.

As far as controllers, I would highly recommend Electronic. For what you are likely doing, a basic electronic controller from Professor Motor will do the trick and be a very considerable upgrade from where you are right now. Without getting technical, an electronic controller will perform much more consistently (progressive control) across the variety of motors that you are likely using. While the sky is the limit,....variable brakes, sensitivity, blast relays, chokes, etc. etc., all have a place, but, they are much more suited to competitive club/commercial racing, and can cost well over $300......all very cool, but, I don't think you need any of this.

If you decide on the Professor motor route, get a "low voltage" version......these are tuned for voltages in the 10/15 range.......most typical for home club racing and the 130 type motors

Professor Motor PMTR 2120, or PMTR2122 would be good choices.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[GoldGuy]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm on a Ninco short track oval and running Artin based scratch built dwarf modified like my avatar, no mags with brakes and low voltage, so was considering the 2119 and adding the brake pot.

The issue with the resistor controllers I have is the ohm rating is two high and adjusting the voltage with my setup is only a partial cure. Using a controller that regulates the voltage and not the resistance seems to make sense. I was just wondering what the experience others have had before I lay out the cash.

Frank

[chrisguyw]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm on a Ninco short track oval and running Artin based scratch built dwarf modified like my avatar, no mags with brakes and low voltage, so was considering the 2119 and adding the brake pot.


Frank

Frank, the Prof.Mtr 2119 is a good controller, but, I am sure you are aware that it is negative polarity........nothing at all wrong with this, just wire your track negative.

You can certainly add the brake pot, but, why not try it as is first......

Cheers
Chris Walker

[pfuetze]

the typical Artin 1/43rd motors are under good controll with a 15ohm controller, or even a tad lower.
no idea about electronic controllers, i´m using Parma eco controllers with a switch for parallel resistor, making a 15/12/9 ohm controller for the Artin cars.

[GoldGuy]

Chris: Ninco is negative, I'm positive of that.

pfuetze: An interesting alternative. Still, I would have to spend about $55 in USD (including shipping and exchange from CDN $) per controller to go with 15/12/9 and modify my 18 year old models.

Although, two 2119s to my door would cost about $225 USD and next month is my birthday, even though I'm too old to have any more.

[GoldGuy]

Ordered the 2119s from ED, saved $20 over PM's price. Problems solved.

Can you say ............ 'happy birthday Frank'!!