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Usually I just build proxy cars so this will be an adventure for me. Now I’m waiting on a few more parts then I will start my first project. It will remain red, with the number 3, but there will be a chassis and wheel change. Finally, after we are done with “unprecedented times”, I will get it out to Mid America Raceway in Bloomington IL for some tuning.
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Usually I just build proxy cars so this will be an adventure for me. Now I’m waiting on a few more parts then I will start my first project. It will remain red, with the number 3, but there will be a chassis and wheel change. Finally, after we are done with “unprecedented times”, I will get it out to Mid America Raceway in Bloomington IL for some tuning.Last edited by Brumos RSR; July 10, 2020, 02:21 PM.The Jester
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What make is that car? Looks like the Scalextric Ferrari 412P. -
What are your plans for a chassis?
Sure wish an enterprising 3D printer would make chassis for Carrera 1/24 cars.Comment
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Will one fit?
After reading your post, I went down and did a look see. The only ScaleAuto chassis I have is a home series. The rear track is too wide for the Carrera P4: 73 vs. 80 (overall width over the tires). The home series wheels are press-on but the limiting factor looks to the spur gear boss.
Keep posting on your project.
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It's pretty easy to upscale an existing chassis, especially if you are going to use a pod......Originally posted by WB2 View PostCome Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creationsComment
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Still work to do as I will need to square up the axles and chassis before mounting.The Jester
Soxside (Chicago)Comment
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that's pretty darn cool. nice job!
how's it run with that big metal chassis?Comment
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Not sure yet as I just have a small Scalextric track. It’s being built with the hopes that one day we can go back to the commercial track one day. Based on potential weigh, I may go up to a motor w more torque to get it moving around. After I permanently mount the body, I’ll do a shake down and report back. It shouldn’t be crazy fast but I hope it’s fun.
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Nice work. I've one of their 512s that will get that treatment.Comment
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I cant wait to see it on the track!Courtney Smith
Chattanooga TNComment
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Wow, what a beautiful job on a beautiful car. I have a 1/24 Fujima P4 kit. I was just going to use an old Cox chassis for it, but seeing that modern rendition is really appealing. Chassis must be made in Germany. Why use one screw when you can use ten. <grin>Cheers
Dan
G.P AlbertaComment
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I think you're right on chassis origination. I've always been a fan of Carrera bodies but never a fan of their underside so it was either a Plafit or Scaleauto for this one. I took it apart and rebuilt it tonight to make sure it's square before I mount the body. Even with the weight I still feel it's worth it. And like Sir
Superslab states, I may need a motor with a little more torque.Last edited by Brumos RSR; July 18, 2020, 01:53 AM.
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This looks great Tony! Looks like a very good upgrade.
I ran mine box stock for quite some time but in the end I grew too frustrated with having to run the unbelievably weak Carrera motor at 18V to get it moving anywhere near decent speed. I initially wanted to fit a decent long can but it would have required more surgery than I felt like so I just crudely shoehorned a Scaleauto Red FC130 motor in place. They have been tested at over 31,000RPM and 180g.cm torque so I thought it should be OK. Turned out it is adequate but the car does weigh like 206g, so some more torque would have been nice.... The motor swap did improve the lap times from an incredibly slow 9.724 seconds (at 13.5V) to a still slow 8.026. But acceptable... for now.... 😉
Looking forward to hear how your Super P4 runs!Comment
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Tony
Just wanted to make a quick response to your "I may need a motor with a little more torque" comment to Barc. The Scaleauto SC0026 motor you show in the chassis is rated at 22,000 RPM and 318g.cm torque for a total of 17.5W. The Scaleauto SC006 "Red" that I used makes 28,000 RPM and 180g.cm torque for 12.6W. That means the motor you have is rated at almost 40% more "horsepower". Depending on your gearing and how heavy your car is, that MIGHT be enough. I would try it with the motor you show there to start: you can always "upgrade" afterwards if needed.
Enjoy the finishing!
Alwyn
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It's 230 grams of lead sled. The NSR Motor is 21,400 with 340g of torque. I guess I should finish the
car 1st 😄 But yes, it sure is prettyLast edited by Brumos RSR; July 18, 2020, 06:42 PM.
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Nice work! I’m sure you can get it dialed in!
Beauty of a car to do!Comment
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You should look into getting an RMS-124 motor for your 330P4. The car will absolutely scream, even at 12 volts. You can get it at Professor motor and Carrera SlotsOriginally posted by SuperSlab View PostPeople don't stop playing because they get old, people get old because they stop playing.Comment
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The chassis and body are now together. Thought I would show one of the little brothers in the background. I can’t quite get the right shot to show EVERYTHING is straight the front and rear tracks will be widened as there is room and the body is lower than the picture shows. The car weighs 230 grams so I think I will add the BRM 22.4k 340gram torque motor so there’s just a little bit more go. On my little scalextric track the car is smooth and VERY quiet as it goes around a little bit faster than a IPS CAR bit I see where this could be fun if I had a “real” track. I’ll add small details to the car as I go and now I just may build a silver 1/24 Porsche 917 for fun also.The Jester
Soxside (Chicago)Comment
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