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    I've been slow on this project. It stated as a 3D body Paul printed for me. He took the file for 1/32 and upsized it to 1/24. I've done some body filler and lots of sanding to try and get it ready for wet look black paint. I think I have it where I want it. I'm going to do a mold and a couple slush cast bodies. The chassis is the LVJ, now my favorite.
    I have a wing mount that will be soldered to the frame and provide a place to solder the exhaust. I'll make the mold with the driver in the body and will keep fooling around till I get a properly shaped windshield. I am anxious to put decals on, but I need to copy them and make my mold first. I'm getting there. Thanks Paul Click image for larger version

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    Matt B
    So. In

  • #2
    Dang, that is too cool for school!


    • #3


      • #4
        Pretty good Matt, lot of work dressing that out, doing a second 1/24 one here, good idea to slosh it from your worked up ‘pattern’ there, good looking chassis too...


        • #5
          I want to be able to run it some, even if not in anger. I have a lot of pieces glued on this body and some fair amount of body putty. I don't know how it would react to a good wall shot! I can slush it and if it breaks it's no big deal, I can do another body. I made the mistake of removing all the support frame under the body, then sanding and working on it. It settled some and I had to build it back up. I should have left all the frame work underneath till I had it done.

          The chassis is the brass 1/32 LVJ. It is a great starting point for most any car. The narrow version can have square tubing soldered on the sides for strength and additional width. They are 2 part frames so you can adjust them to length and then solder an additional brass pan underneath for strength and for handling. Simple, but very effective.
          Matt B
          So. In


          • #6
            Nice work for sure. No doubt it takes some work to round off the body, but it looks good!
            I owe you some intakes....

            Hopefully the chassis will run well too....looks like a decent basic design.
            Come Race at The Trace!
            Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN


            • #7
              I did a 240Z doing all that body work to, it was a good thing for when I pulled it out of the mold it came in pieces so that is what may happen it it hits a side rail.


              • #8
                I have posted about the LVJ frames before, They are a really simple design, basically a 2 piece womp, but heavier material, either brass or steel. Of course the brass is easy to solder. Get the wheelbase right, solder a pan underneath. A .064 X 2 inch wide brass pan makes it a nice starting point. Some weight shifting fine tunes a little.

                We started on a commercial track where H&R adjustable was all they ran and we fell into that design. I found I could build cars for the guys about $20-$40 cheaper if I switched to extended Womps, Sprintsplus or the old Parma FCR frames. Finding the LVJ's for $12 new, made looking for used stuff a waste of time.

                Not sure how this setup would work on a tighter, more complicated track. My track is pretty easy to drive for anybody experienced and is built to be fast and easy to drive. I'm not sure the crashers (our race group) could actually drive on a tight road course.
                Matt B
                So. In