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New to me 1/24 Monogram Ford GT Spyder

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  • New to me 1/24 Monogram Ford GT Spyder

    I received a new slot toy in the mail yesterday. The seller had bagged up what had seemed at first glance to be a mixed and perhaps incomplete kit. I checked the near mint instruction sheet against the bagged parts and body. Color me surprised!!

    Every part was there except a single 2-56 nut, one of the push-on spring washers for the drop arm, one pickup braid, and some of the 3 eared knock offs. All other chromed parts were there, including the period correct Halibrand inserts, but the windshield was broken cleanly in half, for which the seller offered a sizable refund.

    The body looks like its original teenage buyer had painted it in the worst and cheapest color 1960s Pep Boys had for rattle can paint in the 60s (actually almost the same red shade rattle can paint my dad painted his 1953 Mercury sedan back in the summer of 1959), put the body aside to dry, and never completed the car assembly.

    Despite the paint job, it is essentially a mint in box unassembled kit, never raced in anger or for fun....a virgin like my new Cox 2A. None of the axles spacers had even been removed from their sprue.

    Now to strip that Gawd awful paint job.

    I have yet another bucket list project in addition the the Chaparral project involving racing significant GT40s of which this one will be my first, though I will confess I already do have rare Mk 1 and Mk 2 plastic kits already en route from my go-to-guy in Japan. The aluminum wheels and accurate inserts will come in handy.

    As received parts and all together after 55 years of careful storage.

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  • #2
    I don't have the ford, but I did come across the 275. Click image for larger version

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    • #3


      After stripping two layers of paint and sanding.

      Can a polystyrene item be safely bleached without destroying it?

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      • #4
        I wouldn't bleach it.....odd things happen and you end up with brittle honeycomb.
        a coat of light grey primer will give you a better base for white.
        Come Race at The Trace!
        Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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        • #5
          Originally posted by chappyman66 View Post
          I wouldn't bleach it.....odd things happen and you end up with brittle honeycomb.
          a coat of light grey primer will give you a better base for white.
          Agree
          Bleach turns some plastics to a brittle mess, and once even heard it made an R/C model body honey comb like.

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          • #6
            Well I guess priming and painting it is then...but only after I make a resin repop.

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            • #7
              Looks like the drop-arm spring is missing. Without that there isn't much weight on the guide flag. I've also got one that's missing the spring, and I'm still pondering how to get some of the weight of the car onto the drop-arm.
              Ron

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              • Rastas
                Rastas commented
                Editing a comment
                have you a pic of spring? mine just users a weigh on the guide .

            • #8
              Originally posted by oz10k View Post
              Looks like the drop-arm spring is missing. Without that there isn't much weight on the guide flag. I've also got one that's missing the spring, and I'm still pondering how to get some of the weight of the car onto the drop-arm.
              Ron
              If you are not concerned about keeping things totally original, you could freeze the drop arm in position, (this certainly helps the handling of the car), or, you could make a spring to the original pattern out of thin piano wire.

              Cheers
              Chris Walker

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              • #9
                Thanks Chris. I am not concerned with keeping it original, but for example I don't want to solder the drop-arm in place. I've watched some YouTube videos on making springs, and while I'm sure many hobbyists can do it, making one like the original is beyond my skill level. 🙁

                A simple rod does allow some weight to be placed on the drop arm, but I'm still pondering other options:
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                I also don't like the original sloppy guide flag fit. Just adding some tubing was a big help, but again I'm still pondering other options:

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                • #10
                  This is how mine was when I got it , if it's any help.

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                  • Rastas
                    Rastas commented
                    Editing a comment
                    10.5g

                • #11
                  In the original picture, in the center, is a brass button that is used on the guide to take up slack between the guide and the drop arm. I use washers, top and bottom to take up any slack. The guide collar can be pressed down and will hold everything in place, using an original guide. I just use a drop of super glue on the guide arm hinge points to freeze the guide arm in place. It can easily be removed, if you want to change the angle later. With your guide, I would shorten the brass collar to allow putting in the "washers", top and bottom, to take up all "free play" in guide drop arm.

                  Jim W

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                  • jaws
                    jaws commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I can't solder, without using the bigger the blob the better the job, so I use less effective methods.

                • #12
                  Thanks Rasta, thanks Jim, I appreciate your sharing. Here's the progress I've made.

                  I was focused on the sloppy fit of the guide flag, excessive travel of the drop-arm and getting some of the weight off the front tires and onto the flag. So the first thing I did was fashion a replacement for the original eyelet used to hold the flag:

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                  This fit pretty well, but I did need to put an additional washer/collar on top:

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                  After a test fit I ended-up putting a washer under it (hard to see) and securing it with a collar from that era:

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                  Without the spring there was nothing limiting the upward travel of the arm when the car is on the track. This resulted in the front tires carrying almost the full weight of the car. So I added a rod across the frame rails that the arm would hit as it rode upwards:

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                  In the end I got the tires .010" off the track, ensuring a good bit of weight was on the flag:

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                  And the last task was to limit how far the drop-arm falls when you lift the car off the track. A simple bracket cut from tin limits the travel:

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                  Ron

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