While I spent more than I usually do for a single vintage slot car, I feel good about this one in that it has a nearly cherry body with zero glue residue. The driver and windshield are long lost to antiquity, but the roll bar, velocity stacks, exhaust pipes, taillights, and headlight bits are perfect. It looks like it was only semi assembled, but never completed/raced in anger. The chassis even has that pinkish tinge.
Also I spent less than $10 US in 1965 dollars exclusive of shipping and tax, so I’m good.
I plan to clean/detail this body per the treatise on the subject by Jean-Michele on slot blog a decade ago and convert a recently acquired LS hardbody kit version of the 1965 Chaparral 2C flipper car and fit both as needed to my super clean/restored Cox mag chassis equipped with front/rear mechanical brakes (currently powering my Monogram 2D flipper coupe) for parade laps at the local track.
Additional initial observations:
The body is free from any excess glue... period. It looks like only the front valance was glued with a tiny bit of adhesive. The chrome and other small parts all appear to be press fitted and/or glued with a minimum of an easily removed adhesive (not styrene model glue),though I am loathe to remove them to confirm ( unless I decide to make repops) for posterity. A windshield and driver appear to have never been installed/affixed in place. There is no obvious damage to the body itself beneath the paint.
The chassis does indeed show evidence of its pinkish protective coating...the wheels not no much, but they are not white and crusty.
IMHO, this car was never fully assembled nor raced in anger or for fun. The guide braids look brand new.
Now to source a Cox box , Cox tools, a decal sheet ( maybe a removable vinyl one from Pattos), white plastic OEM Cox driver, windscreen, and a red Cox controller like I had in 1965 to complete my nostalgia trip back to Mr. Holcombe's long gone Hobby Haven slot car emporium in the Dallas,Tx suburb of Irving. The windshield will likely be the hardest item to locate I believe. I missed out on a couple of Historical Racing Miniature resin Cox repop kits this past year that had a duplicate of the Cox windshield cast in clear resin.
I plan to detail as per Jean-Michels treatise from a decade ago on slot blog but will do some additional detail work that can be reversed if need be to take it back to its semi- OEM configuration:
Add a styrene box to conceal the swing arm pivot, create a paintable and removable interior overlay in the proper brownish maroon shade, add an instrument panel and steering wheel from the LS 2C or Monogram 2D kit, etc.
Still no idea why a previous owner painted it without ridding it of tooling seams. A closer inspection reveals no yellowing of the body, so that’s not the reason. Quines sabe?
So it comes down to this question:
Should I leave the body untouched except to polish out the existing semi-decent protective paint job OR strip the paint/massage the body per the treatise, etc? I think I can create a very thin paintable and removable interior tub using my gelatin/glycerine molding compound that follows the contours of the tub without actually painting the plastic tub itself. That way I can revert back to either an OEM or modified OEM surface car depending on the path I take w/o stripping any paint from the interior. I just remove the flexible tub overlay/glove to get back to the OEM interior.
As received dust and all.


Cleaned body
Also I spent less than $10 US in 1965 dollars exclusive of shipping and tax, so I’m good.
I plan to clean/detail this body per the treatise on the subject by Jean-Michele on slot blog a decade ago and convert a recently acquired LS hardbody kit version of the 1965 Chaparral 2C flipper car and fit both as needed to my super clean/restored Cox mag chassis equipped with front/rear mechanical brakes (currently powering my Monogram 2D flipper coupe) for parade laps at the local track.
Additional initial observations:
The body is free from any excess glue... period. It looks like only the front valance was glued with a tiny bit of adhesive. The chrome and other small parts all appear to be press fitted and/or glued with a minimum of an easily removed adhesive (not styrene model glue),though I am loathe to remove them to confirm ( unless I decide to make repops) for posterity. A windshield and driver appear to have never been installed/affixed in place. There is no obvious damage to the body itself beneath the paint.
The chassis does indeed show evidence of its pinkish protective coating...the wheels not no much, but they are not white and crusty.
IMHO, this car was never fully assembled nor raced in anger or for fun. The guide braids look brand new.
Now to source a Cox box , Cox tools, a decal sheet ( maybe a removable vinyl one from Pattos), white plastic OEM Cox driver, windscreen, and a red Cox controller like I had in 1965 to complete my nostalgia trip back to Mr. Holcombe's long gone Hobby Haven slot car emporium in the Dallas,Tx suburb of Irving. The windshield will likely be the hardest item to locate I believe. I missed out on a couple of Historical Racing Miniature resin Cox repop kits this past year that had a duplicate of the Cox windshield cast in clear resin.
I plan to detail as per Jean-Michels treatise from a decade ago on slot blog but will do some additional detail work that can be reversed if need be to take it back to its semi- OEM configuration:
Add a styrene box to conceal the swing arm pivot, create a paintable and removable interior overlay in the proper brownish maroon shade, add an instrument panel and steering wheel from the LS 2C or Monogram 2D kit, etc.
Still no idea why a previous owner painted it without ridding it of tooling seams. A closer inspection reveals no yellowing of the body, so that’s not the reason. Quines sabe?
So it comes down to this question:
Should I leave the body untouched except to polish out the existing semi-decent protective paint job OR strip the paint/massage the body per the treatise, etc? I think I can create a very thin paintable and removable interior tub using my gelatin/glycerine molding compound that follows the contours of the tub without actually painting the plastic tub itself. That way I can revert back to either an OEM or modified OEM surface car depending on the path I take w/o stripping any paint from the interior. I just remove the flexible tub overlay/glove to get back to the OEM interior.
As received dust and all.
Cleaned body
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