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Improving the Cox chassis

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  • Improving the Cox chassis

    I just brought this thread over from the old forum......for those interested in this stuff, you have probably already seen it......I did bring it over as I am now working on the body, and wanted to keep everything together

    Hi Folks, For those that know the Cox chassis, this thread will have some interest, as you will be able to see/understand the modifications.........for those not familiar with the chassis, please feel free to look at the pretty pictures!!

    My first "serious" 1/24 slot car was a Cox Team Modified Cheetah.......Or at least I thought it was serious until I got blown away by the Russkit Carrera's and the hybrid Dynamic/brass scratchbuilts, on my first visit to the local commercial track. At that point I turned my back on the Cox cars, in my search for speed.

    Years later, I still love the cars, and with a lot of vintage racing going on in Europe, I have committed myself to trying to get one going......well enough to travel to France and the Bordeaux vintage meet.

    Three things need addressing with this chassis...1/ lower the front ride height (raise the front axle), but still use scale sized wheels/tires, 2/ Freeze the drop arm, and allow for some guide height adjustment, and , 3/ add a lot of weight low and to the sides via body pans.

    I did want to engineer something that was simple, and would not require altering the original chassis, in case I wanted to return it to stock.

    The following pics. are of the results,........and, runs really really well !!

    It started as the Cox Dino chassis, which had the "Team Modified" adjustable aluminum motor bracket tray, and more importantly, it was the only Cox "mag" sidewinder chassis to use the FT16D motor,....... all in, a far far superior race chassis vs. the typical "mag" sidewinders with the 36D motor

    The motor is a heavily reworked Cox TTX150..... Arco magnets/shims, new can bushing soldered in, rewound/balanced arm with new comm, drill blank shaft, and Tradeship end bell with heat sinks/springs.

    10T x 42T gearing and some glued/trued original "grey" Ortmanns finished it off !!

    Chris Walker that this is posted here on the new forum, It will give me the motivation to get on with the body

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    By undoing 3 nuts/bolts, I can remove the entire one piece pan assembly, ....... then bolt on the factory nylon front suspension piece, and she returns to stock !!!

    It is hard to see, but the original "Nylatron" Cox rear axle bushings were replaced with some 1/8th oilites........mmmmm, much nicer

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    The machine bolt (2-56) passes through a hole drilled into the drop arm, and by using the locking nuts, I can easily adjust the front guide height to suit different tracks, and the drop stays locked !!

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    Last edited by chrisguyw; March 28, 2020, 11:17 AM.

  • #2
    Absolutely stunning, Chris. Almost too beautiful to cover with a body...

    Mark in Oregon


    • #3
      It amazes me the quality of some of you guys brass chassis. Do you have a machine shop do these cuts or do you have these tools in a home work shop? Tool-less.
      Arrold Martin
      Nashville TN


      • #4
        To copy that setup is an old goal of mine....I have a lotus 40 that I have been playing with to take to Chicago and run at the vintage race at Chicago Land for Cox mag frame cars last fall. ...I didn't make it, ,,,,but I have a chassis that runs pretty good. ..I got stalled on the project as It needs the brass pan like you made on yours.....I know I can't do anything that looks like what you did and it has made me hesitant to make a template and cut some brass. ..I will put it on the front burner and see what I can do and then post results here. ..It won't be the work of art like you have done, I might be able to make rough copy.....

        I get tired of saying how great your work is and the attention t detail is amazing. ....It is fantastic....
        Last edited by mattb; March 28, 2020, 08:48 AM.
        Matt B
        So. In


        • #5
          I liked this the first time around. As always your work in brass is ambitious and well done. I have a dozen or more Cox cars, and I have Fujumi Ferrari P4 with one of these chassis stuffed in the box. It was my intent to build it as a “Cox” slot car to add to my other Cox cars. Seeing this reminds of that project.


          G.P Alberta


          • #6
            I have a Lotus 40 and a Chaparral with this chassis. We have a class for these but when it comes to racing I reach for a couple of Classic Industries cars. I may have to give this a try.

            I also have a couple of Cox Cheetahs in 1/32 that I might try a scaled down version.


            • #7
              Originally posted by Mitch58 View Post
              I have a Lotus 40 and a Chaparral with this chassis. .
              Hi Mitch, If your Lotus 40 and Chaparral have their original chassis' (36D motors) , then they are different from the one above.........only the "Dino" chassis came with Sidewinder FT16D, and "Team Modified" type motor plate.........for Vintage racing, this chassis is far superior to the 36D versions, and as modified, it will only struggle with (against other period RTR's) a well set-up Russkit Carrera chassis.

              Mitch, If you do the same modifications to the 36D powered chassis.....raising the front axle to lower the front ride height, freezing the drop arm, and, adding weight low and wide via pans, it will make a world of difference on those chassis as well.

              Chris Walker

              Last edited by chrisguyw; March 28, 2020, 11:06 AM.


              • Mitch58
                Mitch58 commented
                Editing a comment
                I love the Cox models for the level of detail and how quiet and smooth they are, and yes they both have 36Ds. That is the spec motor for the "Over 50" class that we run. As for Racing I have a couple Classic Industries cars ( Porsche 906, Lotus 30) that lap faster than our BRM 962s. Plainer looking cars for sure, but great runners.

            • #8
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ID:	28686 Here’s my car I took to Bordeaux in 2002.
              I didn’t spend too much time on it but it worked well. In the race I finished 5th behind Dave Dobner, he had the only other legal car in the top five as the other three had tiny illegal non-scale wheels & tires.
              I bought a pre-painted vacuum formed body and mounted it on a early Cox magnesium chassis. I used silicone to hold the drop arm stationary and also to mount a small weight, it is directly below the front axle, it blends in with the chassis rather well. I did add a touch more weight right above the guide with some tape after some practice laps at Bordeaux. I used Ortmann rear tires and the chassis is otherwise stock. The motor is stock too.
              I should have installed headlights which would have helped my concours score but I spent too much time on my 1/32 scale entry and that didn’t run well because of the track power issues.
              Last edited by Nitromancer; March 28, 2020, 11:04 AM.


              • #9
                Chris, That is some fine work right there.
                Robert- Shoreline Model Raceways Club
                Connecticut, U.S.A.


                • #10
                  Originally posted by arroldn View Post
                  It amazes me the quality of some of you guys brass chassis. Do you have a machine shop do these cuts or do you have these tools in a home work shop? Tool-less.
                  Arroldn, I do all my brass cutting with a dremel/cutoff discs, and, a clean up with various files.........I do have access to a quality drill press, when I need to drill holes in a very precise location....... 3 needed for this chassis

                  Chris Walker