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"If At First You Don't Succeed..."

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  • "If At First You Don't Succeed..."

    I've had a helluva time getting this thing to run properly:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Strom Jag.jpg Views:	32 Size:	56.3 KB ID:	15590

    Now I know it's an old car, and one can only expect so much, but this "ran" really poorly; it took much "juice" just to get going, and even then it was not good. So I decided to try to figure out what was going on. (I should add here that I've been reading a long thread on another site about restoring old cars, so I guess I was under that spell... )

    I'm using newer Scalextric track (because that's what I have on hand), and I've learned here that the slots on this track are not too deep and rather narrow, so the original gude shoes on older cars might have some difficulty. I have had to "reduce" the guides on a couple of cars ( Strombecker) because of this. (For some reason, the guides on my Auroras are smaller, so they work just fine...)

    First I wanted to find out why the high starting voltage, and a close up of the back end shows this:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	unnamed-15.jpg Views:	30 Size:	46.7 KB ID:	15591

    You can see the outside of the tire(s) is contacting the shell; why this car was designed with the overly large wheels is a puzzle.

    I wanted to keep the original chassis intact, and was lucky enough to have a spare example of one of the (slightly) newer black framed chassis, with the (also) slightly smaller wheels and a reduced guide. I threw on a set of Paul Gage tires, and here is the result:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	unnamed-16.jpg Views:	30 Size:	61.7 KB ID:	15592

    Here are a couple of snaps of both chassis; perhaps you can see the difference:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	unnamed-13.jpg Views:	30 Size:	56.9 KB ID:	15593

    Click image for larger version  Name:	unnamed-14.jpg Views:	30 Size:	57.2 KB ID:	15594

    This old girl now runs quite nicely (I think it looks better too) and I still have the as-built original for display or whatever...

    Just wanted to share this.

    Mark in (wet) Oregon

    PS: While I'm thinking about it: how do you guys go about removing press-on wheels from axles? After 40-50 years, the bond between the two seems all but unbreakable...










    Last edited by strummer57; January 7, 2020, 12:04 AM. Reason: ...Punctuation correction...

  • #2
    nice! good thing that you had the other old chassis to use.
    what's the blue stuff in the back?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by SpeedyNH View Post
      what's the blue stuff in the back?
      Lead held in place with blue masking tape?

      To the OP: nicely and subtly done.

      Alwyn

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      • #4
        Indeed; that's what it is. I was gonna mention it, but forgot for some reason...and thanks, Alwyn!

        Also, the grey-ish stuff you see right in front of the rear tire is some foam I shoved in there, just to see if that would help deaden some of the noise; it didn't help much...

        Mark in Oregon
        Last edited by strummer57; January 7, 2020, 12:07 AM.

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        • #5
          aha. i see it now.

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          • #6
            Mark
            the weight behind the rear wheels will cause the car to fish tail more, move it to just in front of the rear wheels.

            I use a wheel puller for HO slot wheels, it works well if you are cautious.
            I'll look to see if I have any more stock strommie parts, if so they are yours.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by williamg View Post
              Mark
              the weight behind the rear wheels will cause the car to fish tail more, move it to just in front of the rear wheels.

              I use a wheel puller for HO slot wheels, it works well if you are cautious.
              I'll look to see if I have any more stock strommie parts, if so they are yours.
              I will look into that; thanks!

              Mark in Oregon

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