Announcement

Collapse

Host Your Proxy Event on HRW!!!

HRW is the perfect place to host your proxy event with your own forum. Your proxy forum makes it easy to communicate schedules, rules, build info, race results and facilitate communication among participants. Please send a Private Message to "HRWForum" to get started.
See more
See less

idea didnt work

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • idea didnt work

    Click image for larger version

Name:	2020camber1.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	5.79 MB
ID:	5622In my never ending quest to win the Smokey's Choice Award whenever I enter this proxy I try to have something a little different from the other cars. This time the idea didn't work, just couldn't get the horsepower to the wheels. Look at right wheel and you will see I put some camber in it.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hey, at least you kept it down to four wheels.

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice try...I've had 3 tries at rear suspension. Tried a chassis with a wheelbase that stretched out on the left side under acceleration. Also built
      a chassis with different wheelbase on each side. Not complete failures, but no better than a simple true chassis............: Brew

      Comment


      • #4
        That is a slick idea! Bummer it was slower - but still slick!

        Comment


        • #5
          Wouldn't a crazy gear ratio fix it? The bands would act as a torque converter. That motor has the umph.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by waaytoomuchintothis View Post
            Wouldn't a crazy gear ratio fix it? The bands would act as a torque converter. That motor has the umph.
            WaayToo name me something, right now 9/30 isnt doing it. would you go up or down. that motor is one I had 26000 rpm but would have to switch to a Piranah per rules...

            Comment


            • #7
              Gotta love these 'thinking outside the box ideas' but wouldn't the camber be the killer as the contact patch is near to zilch on one or both wheels? Have you tried it with both rears running true to the track surface?

              Comment


              • #8
                Closest I've come to anything resembling a suspension was when I used foam for body mounts on Trans Am cars. Both had Scalextric chassis under Revell SnapTite bodies. I used pieces of foam from cheap paint brushes to make the body mounts to replace the posts found in slot car bodies. Used double sided foam tape to secure foam to the body and glued thin strips of styrene to the foam where it met up with chassis. Drilled tiny holes in the styrene so chassis screws had something to bite into.

                Worked well and both cars were fast and had plenty of body 'float'. If you pushed down on any corner of the cars the body would go down and then bounce right back up to normal position.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'd say to just try a crown gear with much fewer teeth to start the comparison. Going to a 10 tooth pinion might be too coarse a change, working with the crown gear is more subtle. Also, check the tension on the o-ring drives. They work better with just a little tension rather than tight.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Lotus56 View Post

                    WaayToo name me something, right now 9/30 isnt doing it. would you go up or down. that motor is one I had 26000 rpm but would have to switch to a Piranah per rules...
                    With a 26K motor, 9/30 is not a bad ratio at all, and I don't think changing it will be a benefit given the inherent level of additional friction in your drivetrain.

                    The O rings/pulleys themselves will rob the motor of some power (just the power needed to turn them), and if the O rings are under even slight tension (which they do need to be) they will "pull" on the inside ends of your stub axles, and as you have relatively short bushings surfaces, friction will occur as the stub axles are forced to run on the front inside, and, rear outside edge of your axle tubes.

                    Depending on your desire to make this work,...you could replace the rear axle tubes with some 3/16 id brass with a single flanged 3/32 oilite installed in each end of both axle tubes. (make the axle tubes as long as you can). While this will not eliminate the friction of the O rings themselves, it will remove a lot of the current axle tube friction, and will make for a quicker, smoother, and, more consistent running chassis.

                    It is really great to see folks experimenting with different ideas on performance/ chassis construction , and while the use of rear camber has some inherent issues/flaws in regards to slot car performance , I hope you stick with this concept, and make it the best it can be ..........keep going, and, have fun

                    Cheers
                    Chris Walker

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X
                    UA-149438709-1