Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Prepping a used slot car body for painting

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Prepping a used slot car body for painting

    What are the recommended steps to prep a used slot car body (Scalextric) for painting? In particular, getting any decals off so I have a smooth surface.

  • #2
    Soaking it in 90% alcohol will remove all decals and paint without hurting the body!
    Dave
    Peterborough Ont
    CANADA

    Comment


    • #3
      Yep, that is what works for me.
      -Harry

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you! Just what I was hoping to hear.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yup, 90% alcohol does the trick. Depending on the paint used it can take as little as 30 minutes or overnight if the paint is a tough one (some Fly cars or Ninco cars)Then I usually wash down the body with Westly's Tire Blech (sidewall cleaner) to remove any trace of oil/impurities left after the soak. A quick WET buff with 600 grit sandpaper to give the primer/paint something grip. Any of the sanding swirls at 600 grit will be eliminated with the first coat of primer or paint Look for casting lines too and remove them. If you use primer (gray or white), any imperfections will become noticeable real quick.

          Buster

          Comment


          • #6
            I like this tutorial personally:


            Comment


            • dinglebery
              dinglebery commented
              Editing a comment
              The car he's working on isn't even painted! Sure, make a video on how to remove paint from a body using a body that has no paint! Genius! LOL

            • SpeedyNH
              SpeedyNH commented
              Editing a comment
              well, it had decals and at least Some paint on it.

          • #7
            Nowhere near good enough for me, but thanks to the tips, my first two attempts came out okay for my use, but certainly not something I'm totally pleased with.

            The Lola was initially sprayed with a cheap chinese clone of an Iwata and the paint was rough. Painted the racing stripes, and used some really thick decals that were on black background (note my late night oops with the upside down Martini decals! Should've gone to bed when my eyes were watering!).

            The McLaren was done with a real Iwata airbrush, and came out noticeably better. Water slide decals on this one.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	74332913_3544047975605420_3198533798270599168_n.jpg
Views:	412
Size:	112.3 KB
ID:	5404Click image for larger version

Name:	73164053_3544053262271558_3884334917462523904_n.jpg
Views:	369
Size:	104.9 KB
ID:	5405
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • noddaz
              noddaz commented
              Editing a comment
              Both of those turned out nice!
              BTW, is your screen name a STtNG reference?
              Scott

          • #8
            I think the McLaren turned out really well. It's a learning process for sure. Did you clear over the paint and decals?

            Comment


            • #9
              Originally posted by TAMELESSTGR View Post
              I think the McLaren turned out really well. It's a learning process for sure. Did you clear over the paint and decals?
              Yes sir, with Future (or its modern equivalent from Pledge). It flows and levels nicely.

              Comment


              • #10
                Hi
                I know these are older posts but just a question along the same lines, any tips on prepping old Scalely, Eldon or Strombecker bodies for repaints. So the paint will stick to the old type plastic they used. Sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere already.

                Comment


                • dinglebery
                  dinglebery commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Have you tried 91% Isopropyl Alcohol bath just like in the video posted in post #6 ?

                • arroldn
                  arroldn commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The thing is can you get 91% Isopropyl Alcohol in this COVID19 environment. I haven't found it in Nashville in 4 months. I ordered 2 gallons on line but have since forgotten the supplier. It has never arrived. Good luck finding it.

                • SpeedyNH
                  SpeedyNH commented
                  Editing a comment
                  does that mean that the drugstores are out of it? must be people trying to make their own sand hanitizer. which one can now buy again.
                  when i wanted more than a small bottle of alcohol for something, i used to go buy a can of it at Cheapo Depot. i did notice that the last time i was in there, they didn't have any MEK. LOL

              • #11
                Originally posted by RACER92 View Post
                Hi
                I know these are older posts but just a question along the same lines, any tips on prepping old Scalely, Eldon or Strombecker bodies for repaints. So the paint will stick to the old type plastic they used. Sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere already.
                Hi Joe, Most (if not all ) of the Eldon and Strombecker bodies were styrene , so any paints from Tamiya/Testors etc. will stick well, and have no reaction whatsoever.....as well, most of the cars from these 2 manufacturers were not painted, so a good clean is all that is generally needed. If there are areas that need repair, most brands of body putty will be just fine...........sand the putty, and any mold lines/flash etc, and your are good to go.

                Depending on the age of the Scaleys in question, some are made of "tupperware" and will benefit from a quick sand with 800/1000 grit paper, and MUST be primed (unlike styrene). I have had very good luck with the "tupperware" Scaleys, using both Tamiya primer and Tamiya colour coats.

                Cheers
                Chris Walker

                PS You can buy 99% Isopropyl at Shoppers Drug mart.........works a bit quicker than 91%.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Im kinda old school, and a fuss budget to boot. I like to use a "cleanser rouge" to ensure I get into shuts, seams, edges, and around the minute detail. AKA: all the places where paint jobs like to let go. My weapon of choice is a toothbrush with the bristles cut back a bit, to stiffen their approach. For really lumpy or raggy seams, I might employ one of those hard toothpicks, like the ones that hold your club sandwich together, in tandem with the cleanser.

                  Good luck!
                  Bill
                  Last edited by Model Murdering; July 8, 2020, 07:35 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    For Tupperware bodies you could try Krylon Fusion, it is made for painting things like plastic lawn furniture. Besides fine sandpaper you can use steel wool to roughen up the surface for better adhesion.

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Thanks guys great info.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        Try to reuse the alcohol by straining it through paper towel or a coffee filter

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X
                        UA-149438709-1