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I was going to put this ‘49 Ford body a brass EJ chassis but now I’m leaning toward this Jaguar XK-140. The Jaguar seems to be a better scale when compared to my current cars like Scalextric C3 corvette. The Ford is on the small side.
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Jaguar XK-140 for me.Austin
Merrimack, NH -
My question is this , are you doing a poll to see what the other gentlemen ( and ladies if there are any ) of the forum would do ? Because in MHO , the wheel base of the chassis matches up better with the Jag than with the Ford . But it is your call , all depends on how much work you want to put into it . Again , MHOComment
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And after I looked closer at the pic of the cars it looks like the chassis is adjustable , so it really is totally up to you -
Semi poll. Yes, chassis is adjustable, I have it fit for the Jag in this pic. I guess the real answer is buy another chassis. Do both.Last edited by Michael Squier; July 2, 2021, 05:15 PM.
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Michael, I prefer the Jag as well..!!...but, either will build up into nice cars.
You may want to consider replacing the Strombecker guide on your EJ's chassis with a TSRF guide....it is a 1/8 post like the Strommie, so you can use your existing collar. (Professor Motor, Electric Dreams , and, I am sure others, have them in stock).
Cheers
Chris Walker
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While we are on the chassis topic, Chris, do you have a better suggestion for the motor mount, or advice. It’s just a pressure fit by squeezing the fro t sliding mount tight. I wish it had a rear mount with holes to screw the motor in but the plate isn’t wide enough to drill. -
Just to keep things a fun, now I’m looking at it and thinking if I cut a bit here and there I could slide the motor forward and keep my interior intact. Hmm, a little brass and some solder could make a screw on motor mount. 🧐 -
Michael, As far as the chassis,....it depends on far you wish to go !!!........there are lots of things that can be done, but, again, how much do you wish to take on ??...........I will post a separate post at the end of the thread.
For a quick and simple mod. you can use a touch of shoegoo/E600 between the motor mounts and the motor.....this will eliminate any rotation of the motor in the mounts,......smoother, quieter, and stronger !!
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If I go Jag 140 the livery will be easy.
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Jag for sure👍🏻Comment
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The Ford looks like one of those underscaled Lindbergh kits. You don't want that midget scale car anyway.
Now, the Jaguar... Not only a good scale and proper representation, it is the middle version, looks like the earlier XK120, runs more like the XK150. That is why people wanted to race them. People found out how fast and agile the XK120 were, and when the more powerful version came out, it was a hit before anyone ever saw it. Great car. Of course, I'm a little biased...
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The answer is simple.
You need a second chassis.
ScottWhy doesn't my car run like that?
ScottComment
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Shoebox Ford all the way.
Chop the top, paint it black, add some wide whitewalls and a set of '56 Olds Fiesta hubcaps and you'll be stylin'.
The other one looks too much like a vintage Barbie doll car for my tastes.
AllanComment
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Hello Michael, I posted this several years ago, and while this is an original Monogram chassis, it is very similar to the Strombecker/Monogram chassis's that EJ's repopped.
EJ's repro chassis have all of the same areas of concern as the originals, and the following mods. will greatly improve their performance. Feel free to use as many, or, as few as you wish 😊😊
Cheers
Chris Walker
This is a copy/paste of my original thread ........................
For many "experienced" slotters, the Monogram 1/32 kits were our first foray into serious slot cars......an adjustable brass chassis, aluminum screw on wheels, detailed body, tools, decals, and that new fangled "Tiger" x 100 motor....a kid could not be happier..., and once built, it ran away from the Eldons' and Strommies that many of us were thrashing around our basement plastic tracks. As newer/faster motors became available (almost weekly) they were duly installed, and at this point the inherent weakness(s) of the chassis became apparent. It was flimsy, bent far too easily, and would just not handle the power of anything more than the Tiger,.........so a frenzied program of chassis bracing/weighting began.......
This post is to show some of the things we did (and I few I wish we had thought of) to help. For those familiar with building and racing the Mono. chassis', you won't learn much, but, it is always nice to look at pictures.
The first pic. shows.....
1/ The chassis halves have been soldered together.....while this makes future wheelbase adjustment a pain, it certainly strengthens the chassis and , you won't have those little screws/nuts coming loose.
2/ The original Mono. rear bushings (even new) had a fair bit of play, and have been replaced with 1/8 x 1/4 oilites. The originals had a proprietary OD, so the rear bushings holes need to be reamed a bit.
3/ Braces have been added, .055 wire for the rear "L" shapes, and the front "C" shape, and .047 for the front uprights.
The 2nd pic. shows....
The front upright brace "L" shapes....by leaving the legs to extend below the chassis, they act as guide stops......(I lost a of lead wires as a kid when the car spun 180 degrees). Leave these a little long until you install the guide....then trim.
The 3rd pic. shows....
An .055 wire brace added to the motor mount.......this must be attached on the side opposite the screw lugs.
The 4th pic,............is of the .055 wires acting as longitudinal chassis braces......the chassis' major issue
The 5th pic............is a .063 brass plate that will be mounted under the chassis using machine screws/nuts.
The final pics, are of the finished chassis, sporting a "breathed on" Tiger x 100"......if I had had this car as a kid,..... I would have been the champ!
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Michael, Your Weller 550 will work, but "guns" are far from ideal for chassis work....."irons" are a far better choice.
That said, if you are not planning on doing much in the way of chassis building/modifying, the Weller will do.........regardless whether you are using a "gun" or an "iron",....you should.....1/ Use liquid acid flux for any mechanical joins (not paste)....2/ Fully clean each part to be soldered with 800 grit paper (any residual dirt/oil/corrosion will result in a very poor join).....3/ do not rush, it may take your Weller several seconds to transfer sufficient heat to fully melt the solder, and let it "flow".......4/ For the types of cars/chassis you are likely to build, a 60/40 rosin core solder will be just fine. -
I do have a soldering iron, I wasn’t sure it would be hot enough. I’ll have to do a little practicing. I have paste flux, so I guess I need to get the liquid flux instead. Ok. Lol, my soldering experience has been a few water pipes, they don’t leak so I must have done something right, of course that was with a flame.
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You do not need a soldering iron with a high watt rating, I use an old 45 watt Ungar. Irons that have the tip and heating element as a unit work better, avoid irons with screw in tips. Good heat transfer and clean parts are important. For chassis work I use a liquid acid flux and acid core silver solder. The tip of the iron must be clean and shiny, turn down the heat when you are not actually soldering to keep the tip from burning. You can get a soldering station with a temperature control built in or use a light dimmer. If you use acid flux you will have to rinse that off or the steel parts will eventually rust.Comment
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Jag..No question..
Dave
Saginaw Valley Raceway
Only Rule: Just enjoy who you are racing with.
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I'd do the Ford. Chop it like stated and put some Strom carbs thru the hood. Just flat head goodness at its bestComment
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Ok , I am not sure if this is the right forum for this question , and I can't find anyplace else to ask this question , has anyone ever used a sheet of brass to start a chassis ? I was going to use it as a base , solder brass to the sides to stiffen it up some . Would cut out the motor mount out of the brass sheet , fold it up to hold the motor . Solder brass tubes for the axles . All I am asking is if it is doable .Comment
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