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Has anyone successfully digitized this car to Carrera?
David -
I don't have the Jag, but assuming the interior is as close to the chassis as my Porsche Evo, then you'll probably need to make room for the chip somewhere. The empty seat actually wouldn't be a bad place for it, though. -
Thanks. Yep, bottom of interior resting on the chassis. I tried resting the chip in the passenger seat and routing motor, braids, lights, and infra-red leads throughout the tight clearances. This would mean that I would have to detach the interior from the body and try to blue tack the interior comfortably in-place to the chassis for testing without the body. As I proceeded, it seemed apparent that this method might inhibit float and chassis/pod movement. So ultimately I cut the passenger floorboard and blue tacked the chip to chassis only - avoiding the pod to allow free movement.
Runs very nicely. I'll send a pic tomorrow.
Early on, I ran magnets (as you know) and didn't focus much on float nor smooth chassis to pod movement since the magnets handled most of the performance. As (and if) I continue converting the fleet to non-mag, I may run across this again, but I don't remember any having these tight clearances - I hope, I hope! I'm thinking the NSR's may require similar efforts.
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By the way Greg, I glued the fronts before truing, but PG indicates that the thick, small-ID PGT's should allow for truing the rears without gluing. I used 20115's on this car. The stock wheels were 16's so the fit was not as tight as on 17's. I trued slowly and got good concentric results without any burn.
They look good to me and meet my <9.0 second current standard for non-mag. Of the 6-7 conversions to date, I've not been 100% happy w my gluing efforts - I'll get better. Gluing prevents tires from slipping on the wheels while sanding - but does it provide other benefits? Maybe something like preventing the center of tire from riding high off the wheel?DavidComment
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When there is a LOT of traction, and the car has a strong motor, unglued tires can slip on the wheels during racing, especially off the start and other hard acceleration times. If the wheel is metal, then it's probably not a big deal, since it's going to be pretty dang true, and even if the tire moves, it will still be good enough. When the wheel is plastic, it's safe to assume it's NOT true, and gluing the tire on will be much more important.
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