Need help troubleshooting my CU. When it acts up, it gives continuous beeps. At first I thought it was the lap counter. So I removed the unit. Installed the Bluetooth dongle and it started doing the same thing. Restarted the CU each time, and I tried running laps with no device hooked in the PC input. It works until I pass a check lane, starts beeping, starts up again, and does it again when it crosses the start finish. Also, when I tried to run against the ghost car, you can’t pause the car. You press the start/ enter to pause, it stops for second and continues moving. Help!
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I don't know what is wrong, but have you tried other cars to see if they have the same problem with this set up? I am sorry if it is an obvious question. Maybe check the connections around the track as poor connection might make the decoding of the track protocol act up. Do the cars otherwise run smoothly around the track (without the ghost car)? Another thought, maybe check the brushes and wipe the rails down with a single drop of inox or a decent contact cleaner just to make sure its making good contact (again, poor contact will cause issues with the devices trying to communicate over the rails)
Just a few hunches.
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Remove the CU from the rest of the track and see if it still does this.
Plug the power into ONLY the CU and see if it does this.
Then plug in the dongle and see if it does this.Slot Car Nerd/Photographer/ Just a self-styled marketing guy on my back porch.
Check out my YouTube channel for weekly slot car news
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Dave, As you were posting, I removed the CU and built a small oval, and still have issues with just a controller plugged into the CU. When I go into ghost mode, it will run anywhere from 9-15 laps and the car stops. Lights are still on the car and CU. Also, I was able to pause the ghost car and start, but it will eventually stop. Little different from the main track.Tony
Pass Christian, MS
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I forgot to mention this unit has a Tek-Slot to go analog to digital. I have probably used that Function maybe twice in the beginning. Worked fine, and have used the CU in digital 98% of the time. This didn’t happen over night, I thought I had little gremlins, so I just restarted the CU, now it’s worse.Tony
Pass Christian, MS
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Originally posted by Scatman View PostDave, As you were posting, I removed the CU and built a small oval, and still have issues with just a controller plugged into the CU. When I go into ghost mode, it will run anywhere from 9-15 laps and the car stops. Lights are still on the car and CU. Also, I was able to pause the ghost car and start, but it will eventually stop. Little different from the main track.People don't stop playing because they get old, people get old because they stop playing.
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I went ahead and installed a new CU that came with my track, updated the firmware and ran laps against the ghost car on my temp track. Installed two LC tracks no problems. Put the other CU back, and my issues started to happen, power flux as it comes and goes. Seems I have an issue with my CU with Tek-Slot. Thanks everyone.Tony
Pass Christian, MS
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Does that happen in digital AND analog? Or just one? Ghost won't work for more than 30 seconds in analog, since it never receives a signal from a decoder, as Carlos mentioned.
If it does it in Digital, that and the long beeping indicate an issue with the motherboard on the CU. The TEK-Slot switchbox just provides the switching, indicators, and decoders for chipping the lanes (not in play when in digital).
When you mention resetting the CU, do you mean like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZHbVynMUUs
Have attempted to update the firmware?Last edited by UglyBagofWater; October 28, 2020, 01:31 PM.
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One last ditch attempt to troubleshoot. I just read your original post again. Please provide all the information you're using.
CU: TekSlots Unit
Cars: Box Stock D124 cars
Controllers?
Power Supply?
Anything else you can think of?
The problem you're describing "can" also happen when the voltage drops through the CU. Causes are many but most of the time due to an variable/adjustable power supply with the voltage set down to around 10 volts. The CU "can" power cars when running as low as 6.5 volts. But it can't work with any accessory with anything less than 10.2 volts. Or if you have a broken OEM power supply this could also cause the problem you're describing. Sometimes you can make a better assessment of whether the CU is beeping is based on a short versus an under-voltage situation by seeing it in action.
If you can shoot a short video and post on YT, then post a link to it we might be better able to figure something out for you.People don't stop playing because they get old, people get old because they stop playing.
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Here’s a video I sent to Carreraslot. They contacted Tek-Slot, response was CU issue.
controllers, Frankenslot and Truespeed
Box stock Carrera 1/32 and 1/24
tried two variable power supply and power wort
I’m back up and running with a new CU. Fastened the track with the red clips and the old U shaped black clips. Nice and tight. I did have good power around the track when the problem started.
thanks for your troubleshooting
Troubleshooting this issue. Will follow up with solutions.Tony
Pass Christian, MS
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You can also try this: even in Digital, press both of the red pushbuttons on the SwitchBox in and leave them depressed. This effectively cuts power to the internal decoders. Then run the cars and let us know the outcome.
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I am TEK-Slots. Surprise! 😄😄
I've let Carrie know if she wants to replace, to send me the troubled unit. Not likely I can do much. I had a CU way back when that I updated the firmware; it bricked during the operation and on start up had the 13 beeps then nothing. A little different situation than yours, but close in symptoms. Unfortunately, because the CU is modified (just the wiring to the rails), it voids the Carrera warranty. A risk stated in CarreraSlots web site and the user guide. But Carrie has been very gracious and generous to customers on replacement - learning a lot from her about excellent customer service!
I do see reading through some of your previous posts that you utilize anti-collision gates; up until recently, these were incompatible with dual mode designs. But Monte at Digital Racing Solutions came up with a solution. If you are using DRS, make sure you read their PDF on Dual Mode use.
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It seems this step worked. I ran two cars on my test track, Ghost and me. Ran several laps between pressing the enter button to pause the race, the cars stopped and moved when I pressed the enter again. I will try and run some more scenarios tomorrow.
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Tony....I had a CU that died a little while after a couple of inadvertent dead short resets -It was almost like it was a cumulative damage effect - it didn't die right away but then it started doing weird things...I think remember you saying that you had a couple of flipped polarity "incidents" when you were doing power taps...may be a similar thing going on...I do keep a spare CU around for just such an occasion
Good luck
Ed
Ed Magner
Portage, MI
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Thanks for the replies. Have not installed lane gates yet. I did I have one jumper installed/Lane reversed when I ran the taps, it told me right away, and I turned the CU off. Carrie emailed this morning and I would be happy to buy another CU and send this one back. Have not had a chance to follow up with her because I have been dealing with the hurricane damage. Sure glad I bought a whole home generator. Looks like no water and power for a few days.
I’m excited to get all this resolved, and the support has been great. I’m pumped aboutTek-Slot’s potential. Was the reason I switched to digital.
Tony
Pass Christian, MS
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Wonder if the problem you posted on this thread is what killed your CU: https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-a...r-troubleshoot
I had a D132 car with the exact same behavior and problem as your D124 car. I tested on 2 CU's just to be sure. For now they are both great, just hope neither goes bad.
People don't stop playing because they get old, people get old because they stop playing.
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