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Is anyone replacing the power/motor wires with higher quality wire?

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  • Is anyone replacing the power/motor wires with higher quality wire?

    So, I just tried, but failed. Admittedly, I didn’t know if the chip was good, because the motor wires had broken off years ago.
    I attempted to keep the heat low, but it may have still gotten too hot. After replacing the wires with SCC silicon wire, the motor would barely turn over and then short out the CU.
    I may try again on a known good chip.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Eric

    I have replaced a few with the silicone wire pigtails from Frankenslot - a couple of broken wire repairs and my Piranha motor fleet - The links are in your post on the JST connectors

    Cheers

    Ed

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    • #3
      I'm no good at it but I know some guys we compete against who have. It works, swipes power from other cars and once free of other cars it definitely sends more current.

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      • #4
        Hi Eric, I think its worthwhile replacing the wires, Personally, after a lot of experience repairing electronics in general, these days I don't usually poke the wire through the hole if I don't need to. These days I just lay the wire over the top of the pad and solder together. and ignore the hole (less mechanical bending stress on the wire strands that way). I just strip back the right amount (a bit of discipline to make it just right) then tin both the pad on the board and the wire itself, then add a bit of solder whilst soldering them together. If you are still learning, instead of adding the wire directly you can just add a bit of solder to the iron tip and bring the iron to the pad, and the wire to make the connection (but check afterwards for a good, clean connection as the flux will all but burn away after a second or two) If you want I could make a rough video because I also train people in soldering and it might help me save my breath a few times over!

        Generally I think the wires on Carrera digital are a bit too small. Especially the wires from the braid and the motor wires. They have obviously been engineered to a price point and a purpose, and probably OK for the standard motors but for anyone expecting a bit more, or even just some consistency I think that they are lacking. I upgraded the wire gauge from the CU to the rails as well. In my opinion they are a bit thin. Obviously engineered to be minimum conductor size for probably 5A but a bit of headroom all the way through always helps get the best results.
        Last edited by Slotspeed; December 15, 2019, 06:20 AM.

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        • #5
          Alright, thanks for the good tips.
          I think I'll remove the wires from a good chip and use the "lay flat" technique. Hopefully, that'll keep the heat to a minimum.

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          • #6
            I just had my Lambo Huracan safety car motor do that too, just got slower and started making noise then stopped and the magic smoke escaped. I stuck in a Pirahna and all is good, they give you silicone wires with those.
            The light wires are the ones that are always breaking off on me, a little movement and they snap right off, just like my Strombecker motors wires in the 60's, Scotch tape never worked well to repair them.
            I had a lot of soldering problems before I got an adjustable temp iron, just had too much heat before and had to be really fast before the wrong things started melting, sort-of good training? The female PST connectors were my major nemesis.
            Allan

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            • #7
              I found a video on you tube about a soldering method that is good for finicky stuff. It's called the fixed iron method and I liked it so much that I made a stand for my iron. You can control the amount of solder to be applied before any heat is applied to the connection and heat transfer is very minimal. YMMV.
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DwHPqgxY38
              Last edited by NOBLNG; December 15, 2019, 10:07 AM.

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              • dw5555
                dw5555 commented
                Editing a comment
                Now I know why my solder joints never looked that good. You guys make it look easy.

            • #8
              Never tried clamping the iron in place - for doing wiring connections - that looks like an idea worth trying!
              Thank you for sharing the video link!

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              • #9
                Originally posted by Slotspeed View Post
                If you want I could make a rough video because I also train people in soldering and it might help me save my breath a few times over.
                That would be great. I have soldered a couple wires to the chip and they still worked, but I would welcome more expertise on this before I do a another that needs it.

                Definitely going to try the fixed iron method on some stuff too. Thanks for the link NOBLNG.
                Randy

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                • #10
                  Originally posted by Bluevista View Post
                  I just had my Lambo Huracan safety car motor do that too, just got slower and started making noise then stopped and the magic smoke escaped.
                  This is interesting, I had the same thing happen to a near new car. I didn't claim warranty as I had sanded the tyres using paper taped to the track. So this might be considered to be abuse. But in reality I was very careful, light pressure and maximum of 10 seconds loading with 30 seconds wait time before the next duty cycle. So really the motor was faulty from new. My local shop say that they have not heard of the rumored "faulty batch" of motors (I didn't buy the car from them so there is no vested interest in this case) but I am wondering what the reality is. I pulled the motor apart and the commutator had basically fallen apart inside.

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                  • #11
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	A6CDA867-2E2F-441C-BA31-A26E1800A0B2.jpeg
Views:	84
Size:	2.33 MB
ID:	12097 Success!.... at least on the test bench. Using a good chip, I removed the Carrera wires and replaced them with SCC silicon wire.
                    It was easier than trying to remove and replace the broken wire on the first attempt.
                    Once done, I’ll add this to the chipped car thread. Click image for larger version

Name:	D8E1740B-6C11-4291-859C-2DA6FE309FE4.jpeg
Views:	95
Size:	1.87 MB
ID:	12096

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                    • 32lbking
                      32lbking commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Nice clean soldering on that one.
                      Randy
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