1930's GP cars - 3D printed

[-nimrod-]

Hi All,

I've had a few requests for some Vintage GP cars, I hope to get these printer ready in the next month or so.
































The Auto Union is ready to go, printed at 1/24 for a friend


























If your interested and have a 3D printer or a friend who has one, drop me a PM for the files.

Cheers
NimROD

[viejoronnie]

Vlad:

Wow! That’s impressive.

I am very close to pulling the trigger on an Elego SLA UV resin printer though the dimensions for prints are rather small. I could possibly print 1/32 bodies on an angle vertically, but it would take forever (about 6 hour or so per print). I could print maybe 5 of Paul’s version of the Artin chassis printed on edge in 3 hours.

Have you tried the Qlone software app to scan objects? One has to have an ARCore enabled Android or iOS device. You download the app and scan the object within a bubble on your camera. Afterwards you pay for the file you want to print etc.

I was thinking about the membership option for unlimited models and saving the file to use on the Elego printer with included Chiti Box slicing software that allows one to quickly slice and create hollow models of various wall thicknesses and printing supports.

I have a well ventilated area available and will be experimenting with a styrene monomer UV curable resin from another industry that produces a crystal clear product. I’m thinking ...mask the windows and paint, just like vac bodies, but its a hard styrene body.

[TAMELESSTGR]

So freaking cool! Can't wait to see more.

[Beast Lee]

Very kOoL...

Gotta love this hobby...!!!

[chappyman66]

Vlad....
that's simply amazing work. I am not particularly a GP fan, but that Auto Union is awesome!

[Racer1h]

Nice looking print....how did get the supports out in a large chunk. Pretty impressive set of models.
are you printing on end.

[red73mustang]

Those classic GP cars are awesome. Is the Auto Union Stream liner easily converted to 1/32 scale?

[-nimrod-]

Hi All,

viejoronnie - Hi Mate, from what I've read, the Elegoo Mars is a great little machine for the price, I've considered and SLA machine myself for the figures especially but holding out for the next big enhancement which I believe will be speed, prints in minutes not hours, I hope. no idea about Qlone, but you've peeked my interest. Clear resin printing will be a game changer. As I understand it all resin prints require UV light to strengthen the it and then a full covereing of paint to stop light getting to the resin as it will continue to degrade, I may be wrong. If anyone knows this UV Resin printing more intimately, please educate me.

TAMELESSTGR - Thank you, more to come very soon

Beast Lee - Thanks Mate, Best Hobby ever and getting better

chappyman66 - Yeah nice and different, found in the 3DWarehouse, cleaned up real quick and took 30hours to print.

Racer1h - Thanks Mate but the print quality goes to Paul G's Cura profile, Ender prints the bodies real nice now. You boys have taught me to keep my prints flat as the car would sit on the road, better results.

red73mustang - Hey Mate, any scale you like, It can easily be edited for your own purposes.

with holidays coming up real fast, these models will be out real quick too.
more pics of the AU


















Cheers
NimROD

[-nimrod-]

Hi All,

A quick update
Ran a test print of the W125 at 1/32 scale with a very thin shell 0.6mm, z=1.2mm, not too bad.
A little more detail to add, engine vents, then will try the 1/24 print.









































Your opinions please.

1. Remove the Front and Rear suspension parts and just leave holes?
or
2. Add more to include the brake hubs?

3. Make the suspension parts separate & printable?

Chassis suggestions? I could model the body posts in but I need chassis dimensions, anyone?

I have a nice driver figure to be printed too





















All will be available very soon.

Cheers
NimROD

[GT40 Racer (DM)]

That Merc looks fantastic mate - top work
What I have done with my Grand Prix cars is add the suspension parts separately because I may need to seperate the chassis from the body and this also would allow a bit of float. For me the little bit of lost detail is made up by having a better running car.

cheers
David

[ccobra]

I would just model up a chassis that would have all of the suspension parts and hubs included with the rear hubs having a counter-bore to accept a bushing. The front hubs would need to have detail added to have a counter-bore for some short axles. The chassis I would model would be like one of my tubular chassis but for an inline motor arrangement. I usually add the body mounts into the body with enough material to support the 2-56 thread inserts (0.125 " ID and 0.21875 " OD for the mounts). But these are just my opinions with the real challenge to keep the CG low in the chassis with all of the parts installed with those tall wheel assemblies. If you need a chassis modeled up, let me know and I'll try to get one out in a couple of days. Would just need to know the wheelbase, width, height and where you would want the body mounts.

Chris

[GT40 Racer (DM)]

I like your suggestions Chris.
Would it be possible to do an adjustable chassis? Wheelbase on these old GP cars varies from (in 1/24 scale) around 100mm to 120mm

I use the Penelope Pitlane adjustable chassis in my 1/24 GP cars - it is 21mm wide (just wide enough to fit in a standard motor in it)

cheers
David

[ccobra]

I like your suggestions Chris.
Would it be possible to do an adjustable chassis? Wheelbase on these old GP cars varies from (in 1/24 scale) around 100mm to 120mm

I use the Penelope Pitlane adjustable chassis in my 1/24 GP cars - it is 21mm wide (just wide enough to fit an standard motor in it)

cheers
David

Almost anything is possible with CAD as long as it will print it out. I'll do some research tomorrow and throw a model together and see what happens.

[-nimrod-]

Hi All,

@ GT40Racer (DM) - Thanks Mate, it is awesome what can be found on the net, remember I'm just the cleaner
thank you for the advice on the suspension.

ccobra - Thank you Mate, appreciate the advice and offer, which I may take up.

he body looks good but in comparison to the Scaley Ferrari 375, it's nowhere near as wide, this may be something to consider as the opening at the base does not allow much more than an ice cream stick (pop sickle stick).
I'll take a few side by side comparison pics. Scale accuracy may need to be compromised.

Cheers
NimROD

[ccobra]

From information that I had found the track measures out just a slice over 44mm. This could allow for the standard size piranha motor but it looks like I'll need to get one of those FF050 motors for measurements. I normally use the slotit flag for it compactness and it seems to work better on my track.