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  • Studebaker and friends

    I've had the Studebaker Champion/Commander 3D file in my bookmarks for four pc/laptops now (After much googling I'm pretty sure this one is the Champion). When I got my 3D printer (Ender3 Pro) in January it was time to buy the .stl files...Pinshape thought differently and isn't selling files at the moment...other means were sought, I eventually aquired the files and once I got in touch with the the files original owner I sent him payment as it's the right thing to do. Now I'm free to post pics.

    The original scale size body was my first body print and did that flat on the printer bed, hence the circles on the top curved surfaces but an eyecatching design on the bonnet (hood). I wondered if I could NSR'ise the body in Cura (the slicing software) and it was super easy but the lights are now race shaped which I actually like. This body was printed at a 50° angle on the printer bed which took much longer (23 hours) but should need less body prep.

    Once that was done I designed a chassis for it in Fusion 360 which I started using a few weeks ago, I've not done any 3D CAD before but plenty of 2D. Motor is an NSR Shark 20K geared 11/32 with 10mm Ultragrips on Mitoos solid alloys. It goes well!!!...and is my favourite car.

    I've been using a centre pivot like that with SlotIt pods for a couple of years. Since that pic was taken I've designed a sidewinder and inline chassis with built in pod and rear suspension but still with the centre hinge. Although each one was supposedly the 'final' version I keep coming up with improvements. The BMW and Manta have a flexible front end as well as rear end, this means the body can tilt independently of the wheels...I'm not convinced of any advantage on a flat track and much extra hassles so have ditched the idea...for now
    The bodyshells all sit on the chassis on the outer sills and for holding them on I've used tape inside the bodyshells for all these, a strip stuck face-on-face with another at one end with the sticky side stuck to the inside of the body and the other end under the chassis...it works well (I don't like body posts and screws but am designing a couple of alternative methods of mounting the body).

    We do a lot of Slot Rally in the club so have plenty of Rally cars with the circuit racers.

    The cars from back then left:
    MSC Ford RS200 - 3D printed Studebaker Champion - Fly BMW M1 - Sloter Opel Manta 400 - NSR Corvette C7R - Team Slot Renault Alpine A310 V6 - SCX Fiat Abarth 124

    The RS200 was my first 3D chassis, very flexible, SlotIt inline pod and 4WD pulleys designed initially in two pieces to fit the wheel hub as there's not enough room for axle mounted ones, then replaced with one piece versions...it goes well and has lead outer ballast like the other chassis.

    The Stude...I love it...I'll finish it one day when I stop designing and printing chassis for my other bodyshells.

    BMW M1, my first flexy chassis design and just for kicks I added front flex too, it's a Rally car, it'll be OK and goes great, much better than the original Fly podded chassis.

    Opel Manta 400, these are a bag of **** from Sloter but the body makes a passable version of this 80's Rally icon and now goes MUCH better than before this has a different design flexy front end.

    Corvette C7R, these already go well, this body was found in a bag of slot car discards, snapped in half behind the rear window and was resurrected with superglue & bicarb powder then bodged onto a Scaleauto chassis as I thought it was the Scaleauto version but isn't, then added a SlotIt sidewinder pod, it went well and I'm expecting this version to also when it's finished.

    Alpine A310 V6, this has been round the block, used to go surprisingly well as a standard car until it was reclassified as an Open Class car due to the motor mount (someone called it an adjustable pod, it's not what I'd call adjustable, in fact mine was glued in solid with lead over the top). Against other established cars this didn't stand a chance, the body has been on a scratchbuilt brass chassis in the past but it's been sat waiting for over a year and should go well with it's new sidewinder chassis.

    Abarth 124, not much bigger than a Mini and the standard car is good in it's class but as an Open class car this should be miles better. This is my first inline design, yes you guessed it I've thought of new improvements since it was printed on Friday.

    Although I like tape for the body I need a better option for speedy body removal, I need to draw up some kind of jig to sit bodyshells on to accurately measure the bottom edge of the body and at the same time wheelbase. I'm thinking two tubes the body will sit on and automatically set the correct wheelbase and a calibrated wedge to measure body sill height much like an RC droop gauge.
    Kevan - Isle of Man
    Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

  • #2
    Kevan, interesting work. Retro Racer would've loved your Studebaker as it looks great. If you're up for sharing, how did you develop the center pivot design and what have been your findings when it comes to performance? GT3 Proxy guys are always looking for something that may subtract a 100th from a lap time.
    The Jester

    Soxside (Chicago)

    Comment


    • Ron Desnoyers
      Ron Desnoyers commented
      Editing a comment
      I've posted a few pics of Retro Racer 44's Studebaker below..enjoy!

  • #3
    I've used a centre pivot for a couple of years, I just wanted to make it easier.

    The earlier 3D chassis pivot tube wasn't really thick enough so I've reinforced this over the last 3 designs. I've used old axles for the pivot, you know the ones that don't get used because they're the ones that come with a car and are too soft for real use. It adds tremendous longitudinal stiffness.

    I have access to a small test track (2m x 1m) Scaley Sport. I won't really know how they work properly until we can get the club open again after the current restrictions are lifted. A 3 lane routed track will be the real test.

    After the Stude chassis was made I had no SlotIt pods left so decided to draw one up and add it to the main chassis with the suspension at the back. John May (JS chassis) thought of the idea originally, I did buy a few of his chassis and immediately modified them to add the centre pivot in piano wire. Good ideas are worth starting from, hence the flexy design in my chassis above.

    What I will say though is the pod can be moved very easily, it needs damping and the Gr5/GT3 guys have used tape for this for years now and is the reason I started using it 4 years ago.


    There's a lot needs improving, rear bearing placement was the first and was changed for the last chassis (the inline), I need to do the same for the other chassis. Body fixing with tape isn't widely liked but I like it, but it does need a mechanical alternative other than body posts and screws.

    At the moment I'm loving the ability to put ideas into plastic, drive it round my track and modify it with improvements. It'll be never ending like painting the Forth Bridge.

    ...you can make a lot of slot car stuff with a 1kg roll of PLA
    Last edited by Kevan; May 11, 2020, 08:37 AM.
    Kevan - Isle of Man
    Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

    Comment


    • #4
      Just to add, I did intend using the Corvette for a GT3 proxy entry with a scratch built chassis many months ago, long before I decided to get a 3D printer...depending on testing on the big track who knows
      Kevan - Isle of Man
      Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

      Comment


      • #5
        Here's my latest print. A Fly TWR Porsche WSC-95 on a sidewinder flexy chassis and this is the first one I've used screws for mounting the body. The mount in the body is superglued at the ends so the body can float slightly but still secure to the chassis. I usually used tape before but I really like this so will be using much more. It's just a roller at the mo, it'll get the rear wing and mount off the original chassis.

        I might look at making the pod removable with one screw in the middle of the rear suspension but will also require the centre pivot to be screwed to the pod rather than a printed part of it.

        Click image for larger version

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        Kevan - Isle of Man
        Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

        Comment


        • #6
          Thanks for moving the thread into the relevant 3D forum, much appreciated
          Kevan - Isle of Man
          Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

          Comment


          • #7
            Hi Kevan! Glad you're getting good results after printing the 3D files of the Studebakers!

            Yes, I had 3D printed and painted a couple of Studebaker bodies for Retro Racer a few years back, and a couple for myself.

            Here are some pics!

            Also attached is a photo of Retro Racer 44's wood carved body!

            Enjoy,
            3DRon
            Attached Files

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            • #8
              The Stude is such a great looker, thank God for the Carrera Panamericana
              Kevan - Isle of Man
              Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

              Comment


              • #9
                Originally posted by Ron Desnoyers View Post

                Yes, I had 3D printed and painted a couple of Studebaker bodies for Retro Racer a few years back, and a couple for myself.

                Enjoy,
                3DRon
                3DRon so glad you did that for RR44, as it was his cars that started me looking for a Studebaker to fiddle around with as well.
                Bram,
                CHCH NZ

                Comment


                • #10
                  I love the chassis designs with the flex pod as part of the over chassis as opposed to a separate piece. I am curious though how thick are you printing the base of the chassis and is the piano wire/axles support up front glued in place?

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Originally posted by Gipper View Post
                    I love the chassis designs with the flex pod as part of the over chassis as opposed to a separate piece. I am curious though how thick are you printing the base of the chassis and is the piano wire/axles support up front glued in place?
                    The base is 1.2mm thick, the reinforcing legs are 3mm thick to the bottom of the chassis and the centre pivot is an old 3/32" axle that is held tight enough not to need gluing.
                    The later designs are moving away from in-built flexy pod to a separate part with two screws at the back so it can float like a slotit pod but with the centre pivot the same.
                    Kevan - Isle of Man
                    Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

                    Comment

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