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  • 3D Chassis

    So here are a couple chassis shots.
    The rear roller sits under a Strombecker Lola T160 (the orange body).
    Click image for larger version

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    It's short and light and frightening quick with the orange endbell motor.
    The other two show the SW (left) and inline (right) versions....I did some grinding on the left one for test fitting.

    This is the "3 pc adjustable wheelbase" chassis and a couple of printed pods.

    Click image for larger version

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    The blue one is under a Fly Ferrari 512M. The white one is awaiting installation (I am not sure where, yet).

    Anyway....you take the three pieces into your CAD program, set the wheelbase as needed, and fuse them all together before exporting for printing (Grouping in Tinkercad).
    Super easy, very functional chassis....most of my CanAm cars in the other thread are on this chassis.

    The Porsche 356 has it's own chassis:
    Click image for larger version

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    Hopefully this helps.....I am not nearly as talented as Alexis and some others on Thingiverse.
    Come Race at The Trace!
    Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

  • #2
    What program do you use the draw the parts?

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Kevan,
      To the extent that I draw anything, I use Tinkercad. I haven't taken the time to learn anything more capable.

      To be very frank, some very capable people did some great work, shared it on Thingiverse, I just use what they have already done. The three piece chassis is me cutting an existing Thingiverse file into pieces so I can make whatever wheelbase I want. I then put it back on Thingiverse to credit their work and share my own.

      So I am not real very capable.....just using what is available in public. The Artin chassis is the only thing I did, and I used Tinkercad.
      The SW pod takes the inline pod and turns the motor cradle 90 degrees. I can do that in Tinkercad, for example.
      Last edited by chappyman66; May 8, 2020, 12:47 PM.
      Come Race at The Trace!
      Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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      • #4
        I can just about make stuff with Fusion 360, 90+% of the time a pre-made shape is all you need to resize or cut into another shape. The #1 thing I don't like about Fusion is the loooooooooooooooooooooong history your work creates over time...I might try Tinkercad.

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        • #5
          Well....Tinkercad is basic, but it works for me.
          The Porsche 356 chassis is typical....the person who made it did it in 1/24. So I downsized everything, and instead of re-making all of the motor mounts etc I just cut that out and dropped in the inline pod and grafted it all together. That was easier for me but it works.
          Come Race at The Trace!
          Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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          • #6
            Scaling is dead easy in Cura or Prusa slicers.

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            • #7
              Yup, but when the motor mount and bearing supports don't need to be scaled and everything else does.... it's more challenging.
              Come Race at The Trace!
              Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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              • #8
                Originally posted by chappyman66 View Post
                Yup, but when the motor mount and bearing supports don't need to be scaled and everything else does.... it's more challenging.
                Mere detail

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                • #9
                  Are you printing the motor pods in PLA? How do you find them?
                  I am still buying mine from Slot-IT.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MrAdept View Post
                    Are you printing the motor pods in PLA? How do you find them?
                    I am still buying mine from Slot-IT.
                    Those pods are printed, some design and print their own, other download free .stl files from places like this -> https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:slot_car

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kevan View Post

                      Those pods are printed, some design and print their own, other download free .stl files from places like this -> https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:slot_car
                      I started by using the inline pod:
                      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1050441

                      Then I turned the motor carrier 180 degrees so I had both can and EB drive inline pods.

                      Then I took that motor carrier and turned it 90 degrees and made SW pods both can and EB drive. Tweaking the offset and the spacing for gearing is useful......

                      There is a very nice AW pod:
                      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433947

                      I took that and shrank the motor cradle to make an FF050 AW pod, and can make them for SW or IL configuration.

                      All of this is public domain.......TinkerCAD is free.

                      Now....I will say.....yes, I am printing in PLA at 100% infill, and yes they do sometimes break uprights or pillow blocks....unlike a Slot.It pod. Printing in ABS, PVC, or PETG would probably fix that but I don't have an all metal hot end yet. But for inexpensive prints for cars with 14K - 18K motors, they work just fine. For serious racing and the Can-Am cars with the fast motors, I am still using up my stash of Slot.It and D3D pods....
                      Come Race at The Trace!
                      Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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                      • ccobra
                        ccobra commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Be warned, once you go to the ABS you'll end up cussing the PLA when it plugs up the nozzle. That happened to me on my MINI and I broke the nozzle off when trying to remove it. The ol' steel to aluminum issue. Hopefully I'll find some time to remove it this weekend and then I'll be printing again.

                      • Pepsi 62
                        Pepsi 62 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        have a mate who has printed out a few inline and sw pods for me using PLA, had to make a few adjustments to get them to fit right, but they are quite nice, as chappy said the tabs can break quite easily, but i glue everything anyway so they sitll work fine. I did have a SW in my Ford V Ferrari proxy car, but the pod got damaged somehow during shipping, so had to be replaced

                      • slothead
                        slothead commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Does it, or would it, help manage the breakage of parts if they were coated with superglue or supported with something like JB Weld? When I've built styrene chassis I'd glue the parts together with model glue and secure the most important parts with JB Weld.

                    • #12
                      I actually think a couple of things help:
                      1) using a good quality PLA (the Amazon Basics stuff is crap in my opinion).
                      2) printing hot enough to get good layer adhesion but good prints without strings. The difference between 190 and 200 makes a difference for me. 205 might be better.

                      And yes, as Pepsi62 says I glue everything in anyway.

                      Slothead...... Water-thin CYA can help, but can be messy. It will bind loose layers, though.....
                      Come Race at The Trace!
                      Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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