Ok so I got a ender about a month ago and have just printing small things, nothing great, just learning to use the machine. I now think I am ready to print a body (thanks Chappy) that I have downloaded. So what settings do i use. I mean like supports and stuff like that.
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Assuming you have an Ender 3 and are using CURA for slicing... I would print at fine setting, wall thickness of 1.2mm (3 layers) and supports (default). Print the body as normal - shiney side up! because I prefer a good smooth finish versus ease of support material removal. I know some guys print the body standing on its' tail but I get a bit worried that the height of the print will cause the printer to print less than good quality. Use the preview function judiciously in CURA to make sure everything looks good before you perform an actual print.
For a great source of information regarding Ender 3 printers, search for user CHEP on YouTube and watch some (or all) of his videos. Also, he has custom Ender 3 profiles that you can download from links on his You Tube pages. Very good stuff.
Peter👍 2Comment
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Suggestions:- Speed is critical. We run no faster than 40, and sometimes slower (30). It takes longer but the surface finish is hugely improved.
- We run at 0.05 or 0.06 layer height, with a first layer height of 0.3 to ensure good adhesion. Extruder Temps are 200-210 depending on filament source and color.
- Use a support z separation distance of 0.5, helps to remove support.
- Make support weak (I run support at 10% strength or less) for easier removal.
- Use support everywhere.
- Run simple bodies (the Porsche 356 is easy) to learn on.
- We run everything flat vs on it's tail or nose. You don't have to, we do.
- I tend to run at 20% infill but it depends on the file....some are very light at 100% infill because the walls are thin to start.
- Ensure "print thin walls" is selected. Others say turn it off, but my prints are better with it on. YMMV.
Good luck! Always happy to help.
Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 2Comment
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First body, almost discouraging, I started the print before Chappyman66 posted his suggestions. Had so much support attached to it, I ruined the print trying to get it out. And surface is so rough I will sanding till this time next year. Going to print again with the updated settings...2 Photos👍 1Comment
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That Sunbeam is another good one, usually. We used to cut the support out with the Dremel until we figured out the better settings. You still have to be careful but hopefully the second one will be OK. I have a huge pile of bodies ( a dozen at least) with various problems.... don't get discouraged. It's actually not that bad.
I figure the rough ones are good for scenery or for visitors with slower motors.....or maybe parts.
The other setting to look at is support overhang, should be 60 degrees or more. This will eliminate the support on the sills and wheel wells that need to be clean.
​​​Last edited by chappyman66; January 6, 2020, 07:17 PM.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 1Comment
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Again..... don't get discouraged.
I have been waiting literally for 6 weeks to get this body.....
Ferrari 350 CanAm, my holy Grail.
I finally got one off the printer tonight. And the support came out super easy and pretty clean using the z offset:
So keep at it.....the results can be very rewarding.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 1Comment
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Say, that Sunbeam looks pretty good! It works, as a kit.....it's actually not a horrible car with the right chassis/motor.
The CanAm cars are mostly developed by NIMROD, a few have been done by Racer1h.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
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Thanks Chappy.. It has some rough spots in it but for the most part it came out pretty good. Minimal sanding with your settings. The head lights were printed before on the old settings. They look like they are wood grain. So are those Can Am files for sale or ? just looking for some early stuff. Would really like to find 60's Indy cars. `👍 1Comment
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Sent you a PM.......Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
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If you find Racer1h's posts, I think you will eventually see all of the CanAm cars....it's close to two dozen now. Most are cars that aren't otherwise available in 1/32. A few (Ferrari P4 coupe, 312P spyder) are available but maybe not in something as light as 3DP or accurate 1/32. Mid to late Lolas (T163, T260), I believe every version of the Shadows (2 MkIs, 2 DN2s, and the DN4), both BRMs, the later Ti22, the Ferrari 712, a HonkerII. The first Porsche 917-10 before the swoopy shovel nose. The McKee Mk10 (wedge car), wider than the Strombecker. The March 707.
Quite a lot of very cool work, actually. With an easy 3DP chassis and Slot.It pods/running gear they are really quick.
The files have been developed by people here and on other boards. Those folks are not selling the files. The makers don't feel like they should profit - they are doing it for fun and enjoyment. But by the same token, the files are not on Thingiverse since they don't want others selling bodies on auction sites based on their work. We are trying to figure out a hosting solution without spending a ton of money, but for now individual requests are being handled personally.Last edited by chappyman66; February 12, 2020, 09:29 PM.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 2Comment
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