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Pending cars in the queue

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  • Pending cars in the queue

    Most guys with a 3d printer can probably relate to this. An ever growing lot of project cars

    The last week or so I have been busy knocking out resin shells using Sirya tech Blu/abs mix. This is the right stuff for body shells. These came out thin with enough flex to absorb hits. I have zero concern about dropping these. I dropped the Corvette and it just bounced off the concrete. It only weighs 14 grams.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	9674E355-7B77-4806-A749-21592E287CAF.jpg Views:	2 Size:	2.06 MB ID:	133240

    back row left to right

    Alfa, Ford GTE, Lancia D24 and a BMW 3 series

    front row left to right

    Shelby Cobra, Ferrari P 4, Corvette C7 , Lotus 30

    These are printing out very well. I read there was an issue with antialiasing in the Anycubic slicer and it did’t really work, but I set mine to β€œlevel 2” and this is result. All I did was remove the supports and spray a coat of primer filler on 6 of these. The alfa has a finish coat and the BMW is raw right off the build plate.

    So this antialiasing feature seems to work as he bodies are requiring little work and appear much smoother.

    My process is now to take a body and print out a specific chassis, with wheels and build it out to a functioning slot car with proper mounts. Then I remove the body to paint and decal. This will involve a fine wet sanding and perhaps another coat of primer prior to the final paint color. Vacuum forming glass is the final event.

    I will post pictures as these projects move along.
    Last edited by Barc 1; November 22, 2021, 02:07 PM.
    Cheers

    Dan
    G.P Alberta

  • #2
    They look incredible Dan.
    Brad
    Ayton, ON Canada

    Comment


    • Barc 1
      Barc 1 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Brad. You know a 3D printer isn’t much more then a good tire truer. Hopefully more people realize that this maybe a tool they want on the bench and take the plunge

    • Brad_T
      Brad_T commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, I have this on my radar, I just don't have the spare time right now to invest in learning. I think the time I invested in modifying a body and scratch building an engine for just one car could have been spent learning 3D printing software.

  • #3
    A.A. on the Anycubic Photon MonoX doesn't work below 3 seconds exposure time.
    Kevan - Isle of Man
    Life is like a box of Slot cars...πŸš“πŸš—πŸššπŸšœ

    Comment


    • #4
      I have a mono and the exposure is set at 2 seconds. The prints no longer have lines in them so not sure what to say. I am using the Anycubic slicer with AA and it seems to be making a difference. I read many stories about the AA not worklng and yet I seem to be getting better results with it on. Those prints have one coat of primer on. That is all that has been done to them
      Cheers

      Dan
      G.P Alberta

      Comment


      • #5
        One thing I have learned is that I do what provides good prints on my machine in my environment. That's not necessarily the same as what works for other folks in other environments. Different conditions / different materials / different slicing settings etc all impact quality.

        If you are happy with the quality Barc 1 then I say run with it. I use AA too, although I am not sure I can tell the difference. But I am running at 0.03 except for the wire inserts that I run at 0.01 so that might hide things.

        There is no denying that resin is much smoother than FDM and the detail is far greater. Those bodies look fantastic, and my resin pile is building up as well.

        I am unconvinced about the weight.....although I might have to learn about hollowing and lightening resin bodies since they don't do infill like FDM to lighten things.
        Your builds are always a nice encouragement.
        Come Race at The Trace!
        Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
        https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations

        Comment


        • Kevan
          Kevan commented
          Editing a comment
          I hollow in Chitu with 0.9mm wall thickness then put drain holes in...they don't always take a drain hole!
          I have often done hollowing then save the print as a hollowed stl then import it into 3DBuilder then add appropriate sized /shape objects then extract those from the body to leave holes into the hollowed voids for difficult or large areas.

        • Barc 1
          Barc 1 commented
          Editing a comment
          Some files are better then others with respect to hollowing. Some car files are presented as a solid piece. These I will hollow in MS builder and then slice off the bottom which basically leaves a slot car shell. Using the subtraction tool I will then open up the windows.

          Some files include all the interior and are way more complex then required for a slot car. When you slice these in MS builder it will unlock the groupings of some parts, and then you can select and delete the detail not required for a slot car.

          I wish MS builder had an eraser tool you could use like a Dremel tool. That would be sweet. Selecting shapes and then subtracting can get tedious

        • Kevan
          Kevan commented
          Editing a comment
          I prefer Netfabb's boolean subtraction as it doesn't reduce the files quality like MSBuilder does.

          ...a mesh grinder would be ace!!!

      • #6
        Definitely doesn't work on mine.
        Kevan - Isle of Man
        Life is like a box of Slot cars...πŸš“πŸš—πŸššπŸšœ

        Comment


        • #7
          Interested in the Ferrari P 4. Who sells those files?

          Comment

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