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3D Newbie questions

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  • 3D Newbie questions

    I am interested in getting into 3D printing for 1/32 car bodies, chassis and pods. I have been looking at videos and doing as much reading as I can and have many questions. But just a few for now..
    1. It appears resin is better for bodies and filament is better for chassis and pods. Is this correct?
    2. Isn't something you make from resin brittle?
    3. I see a lot of videos making various objects with a resin printers, but none actually making a car body. Does it matter what orientation you use to print a car body?
    4. Do I need a clean and cure station?
    5. I am seeing a huge difference in prices for what appears to be the same printer. Very confusing. Just do a search for "anycube photon mono x" on EBay. You will see what I mean. Any help would be appreciated.

    That's it for starters.
    Last edited by Bal r 14; September 21, 2021, 11:46 PM.

  • #2
    1. Resin prints are much sharper in detail but filament is much more robust. For chassis I use petg or Cf-Petg, you could use pc or abs but you'll need a hot end that is capable of 300°C for some filaments.
    2. Resin is brittle, tough resins are better, Abs-like should be a minimum. I add 20% Tenacious to make bodyshells more durable but they'll never be as tough as non resin bodies.
    3. I bought a printer large enough to print even the largest 1/32 bodyshells flat or near flat on the bed primarily to save printing time, I raise them on 4mm high supports.
    4. You don't but it may make life easier. I use a small tub of IPA (ethanol will replace that when it's gone) to prewash my prints then a 4 minute clean in an ultrasonic bath full of IPA (ethanol).
    5. My Photon Mono X was £800 earlier in the year, I recently saw them advertised for £500.
    Kevan - Isle of Man
    Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜


    • #3
      At this point, all I want to do is recreate the 1/4 mile dirt track cars I used to watch in the 60s and 70s (image enclosed). So, maybe I just need a filament printer for now?
      Attached Files


      • #4
        I started with an Ender3 Pro and upgraded to a Qidi X-plus...if I was starting again I'd buy a Prusa filament printer, Greg has one (Mr flippant)
        Kevan - Isle of Man
        Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜


        • #5
          If you have the budget, you can't go wrong with a Prusa. If you have more time than money, then getting a budget printer is also fine. Either way, there is some learning to be done.

          I've seen some impressive bodies printed with a filament printer. If I was into scratch building, I'd probably be doing some as well. However, as mentioned, you can get a much nicer body out of a resin machine, and have much less post-processing work to do, if you want that "showroom shine". If you're ok with the 5-foot-rule, then filament printing and a coat of paint is fine. ;-)

          These days, you can get a budget filament printer, a budget resin printer, AND a wash/cure station for less than the cost of a Prusa MK3s+ kit. I wouldn't trade my Prusas for anything, but I have no problem recommending an Ender 3, especially since there is so much great community support for them. If I needed more printing capacity and couldn't afford another Prusa, I'd probably get one, because the experience I've gotten with my Prusa will make the learning curve so much flatter for me.

          Oh, and I have a Mars Pro resin printer. I got it used from a friend, but didn't print with it until I got the flexible build plate, something I got spoiled on with my Prusa printers. I did a couple prints, but decided very quickly to get the wash and cure station. Those two things make resin printing *almost* as tidy as filament printing, though I still recommend gloves, mask, and ventilation to delay the onset of allergic reaction to resin. With those things, I would just put the whole print plate into the washing machine, then pop the plate and flex it to pop off the prints, then pop the prints into the curing machine. Paper towel and IPA consumption plummeted, and I didn't dread using the resin printer as much. I still prefer filament printing, and haven't printed anything on the resin machine for a while now, but when the time comes, I'll fire it up again.
          Last edited by MrFlippant; September 22, 2021, 10:20 AM.


          • #6
            I have An Anycubic Mono for resin and an Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0 for filament printing. All my car bodies are done in resin. I do this with the full knowledge should they ever leave the track and hit a concrete floor they will shatter into pieces. My track room is carpeted, so that softens the blow. An Anycubic mono sized printer will print any 1/32 scale body, but for the long wheelbase version they will need to be printed on an angle.

            I have given up on resin for chassis. All my Chassis are printed using PTEG filament

            Today I am going to spray the inside of a resin shell with rubberized spray out of a can. This is being done in an attempt to increase the strength of resin bodies. Resin is kind of weird in the fact it seems to flex and is pliable, but once you reach the breaking point it just fails.

            Both of these printers are budget printers, but for the home hobbyist they are more than adequate. I make stuff for my own use, and not into production mode, so have no real need for a fast FDM printer. Putting a print file on at bedtime will yield a new model when you get up in the morning. Funny a resin printed body and a FDM printed chassis take about the same time to do. So that is a convenient fact when building a new car.

            Last edited by Barc 1; September 22, 2021, 05:36 PM.

            G.P Alberta


            • #7
              Thanks, everyone. You have certainly given me a lot to think about and research.