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Tire Razor Sanding Plate Reciprocation Machine

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  • Tire Razor Sanding Plate Reciprocation Machine

    I'd been wanting to make a machine to move the sanding plate of my Tire Razor for a while, but procrastinated long enough for Kev (OXO_cube) to design and share one for his machine. He has a similar machine, but it's not a Tire Razor, so I had to make some modifications. I ended up making a lot more changes than planned, and every part was more or less changed from the original.

    As the motor can warm up during use, I recommend a temp resistant material such as PETG or ABS for the gantry and arm parts. The rest can be PLA if you want.

    Mine uses the same gear motor as his does, but I won't provide a direct link. Just search for "GA12-N20" when shopping, and get the lowest RPM you can. Keep the voltage in mind as well, and try to get the lowest RPM at the highest voltage. E.G. a 15rpm at 6v would be good. I also had to get m1.6-0.35mm screws to mount the gearmotor. Since the only ones I could get quickly at a reasonable price were 6mm long, that's what I designed the gantry for, so that they can be snug without interfering with the gears of the gear motor. 5mm or 4mm long screws will probably work fine, but not longer than 6mm. One screw is also used in the end of Arm1, against the flat of the motor shaft, to act as a set screw.

    The rest of the screws I used are just M3 socket head cap screws as are popular on various 3D printers like my Prusa. Any M3 screw should work, just be careful that the head does not collide with anything prior to use.

    The STL files are all provided in the ideal print orientation. Some parts need supports for countersunk screw holes, or other parts that are not supported by the model or the bed. Use your best judgement, or use PrusaSlicer and the provided .3MF file, which I have pre-configured with supports in the needed locations. It should work with any recent version/branch of Slic3r. I also included some replacement pulleys for the Tire Razor in smaller diameters, in case you have wheels/tires that are so small that the OEM pulley hits the sanding plate. They aren't strictly needed, and you might need to find shorter set screws for the smaller ones.

    A STEP file is also included to make it easier to modify for your particular machine if needed.

    When attaching the ball joint to the end of your sanding plate, it's best to do so prior to assembling the machine. Snap the Ball-Joint into the Plate-Hitch, and then use a strong adhesive, such as Shoe-Goo, to bond the ball joint to the end of the sanding plate. Note that the Ball-Joint plate is smaller than the sanding plate, so try to get it close to center. It should not be flush to ANY of the 4 sides if the end of the sanding plate. Do this with the whole assembly on your Tire Razor in the sanding plate channel so that all the parts are level. Allow the adhesive to completely set/cure prior to using the machine. The rest of the assembly should be pretty straight forward.

    Thanks to Kev for sharing his design!

  • #2
    Another brilliant open source slot car project!
    You could always slow the recip motor down with lower voltage
    Kevan - Isle of Man
    Life is like a box of Slot cars...πŸš“πŸš—πŸššπŸšœ


    • #3
      Yep. I'll leave that up to the user, but starting with a gearmotor that has a low RPM at higher voltage is A Good Thingβ„’. I currently have mine on the same power as my main motor for the razor, but I think I'll change that so that I can change the speed of the reciprocator. It doesn't seem to make much of a difference, though, at least not after I worked out all the details to keep it from binding somewhere. It runs fine fast or slow. Keeping it slow will probably prolong the live of the gearmotor, though.


      • #4
        Absolutely brilliant. πŸ‘ŒπŸ‘πŸ‘


        • #5
          and must have for nsr evo tires .
          THE other Vancouver aka Vancouver Washington across the river from keep Portland weird....
          Member NASTE (Northwest Association of Slot Track Enthusiasts)


          • #6
            I can't do the 3D printing but I love the idea. Have often thought about trying to adapt my machine to do the same thing.
            CHCH NZ


            • Bluevista
              Bluevista commented
              Editing a comment
              Check out the Cincyslots video on You Tube of one they have, can find it on their website too. Easy to make with the geared motor (hamazon) and some pieces- parts, 30-40 bucks? I want one too, LOL.

            • Wobble
              Wobble commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks for that Bluevista. I'll be off now to check it out.

            • TuscoTodd
              TuscoTodd commented
              Editing a comment
              One thing to keep in mind is that many libraries have 3D printers that are available to the public. Typically they charge very modest $ to print items. As an example, our local library charges $.50/hour of printing (so something that takes 6 hours to print costs $3.00) - just something to consider...

          • #7
            Anyone with access to a printer or CNC can download all the files for free and make their own. I try to be as helpful, and to make it as accessible as possible.

            That said, I do plan to sell some, once I'm confident it will work on other machines than my own (first run) Tire Razor. I should know tonight, and will try to remember to post about it here tomorrow.


            • #8
              After testing on a friend's machine, I discovered a couple differences and made appropriate changes to the model. The Thingiverse page has been updated,

              I'm offering a limited number of assembled units, complete with motor, shipping included in the states, for $40. PM me if you want one.

              Again, the models are free to download and print if you have access to a printer. Information about the motor and needed hardware is on the thingiverse page if you want to make your own.
              Last edited by MrFlippant; October 18, 2021, 11:35 AM.


              • #9
                Absolute excellent innovation
                TOM...HOME RACING GOO GOO!!!
                Warren, Ohio


                • #10
                  I want to thank you so much for this! I was just about to make my own set up out of metal before I saw this. This is a great time saver! Kudos! I just finished printing mine and I'm just waiting on the motor to come in today.
                  Last edited by davidxl9; September 23, 2021, 09:16 AM.


                  • #11
                    Awesome! Please let me know if there are any additional changes that need to be made, and I'll be happy to do them and re-upload the model. Do you already have the screws? The tiny ones to mount the motor were the trickiest for me to find.

                    And, of course, thanks to Kev (OXO_cube) for his original design so all I had to do was make a bunch of changes rather than starting from scratch. ;-)


                    • #12
                      This is awesome Greg..
                      Ed Magner
                      Portage, MI


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
                        Awesome! Please let me know if there are any additional changes that need to be made, and I'll be happy to do them and re-upload the model. Do you already have the screws? The tiny ones to mount the motor were the trickiest for me to find.

                        And, of course, thanks to Kev (OXO_cube) for his original design so all I had to do was make a bunch of changes rather than starting from scratch. ;-)
                        The screws were donated from my rc heli stash, I did not print the new base but mine is about 1/32" lower on the slide part- (maybe an issue on my printing - no big deal since I am using the short arm. It does affect the long arm.



                        • #14
                          That is a really nice upgrade!
                          Now someone needs to come up with something that uses more of the strip of sandpaper instead of a 1/8 line down the middle.
                          Why doesn't my car run like that?



                          • #15
                            It's easy to change the location and the throw of the plate by changing the length of the arms. My prototype had longer arms but I wanted the throw to be within the channel for the pulley to avoid the pulley hitting the plate with small wheels/tires. My pulley appears to be larger than later versions, which is why I also include smaller pulleys in the download files.