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Motor lead wire question

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  • Motor lead wire question

    I would like advice on whether or not to tin the distal (guide) end of lead wire on cars with ferrules or grub screws fixing the wire to the pickup guide. I run on a non-magnet wood track so my deslots are from spin outs not rollovers. This leads to eventual breakage of the wire where it attaches to the guide. I want to decrease the frequency of breaks and am trying to determine if whether tinning increases or decreases breakage. The tinned wire section is stronger but tends to focus the repeated stresses in one place. I’ve started to keep track of my own experience but would appreciate the wisdom of the group.
    Mike V.
    Western North Carolina

  • #2
    I have found that tinning caused more that non tinned. just make sure when you run the wire there is enough for the full turn of the guild in both directions. to short and it will put stress on the wire
    THE other Vancouver aka Vancouver Washington across the river from keep Portland weird....
    Member NASTE (Northwest Association of Slot Track Enthusiasts)


    • #3
      Sir Smokieo has stated that tinned breaks more and it was experienced by me that one time when I did tin my wires.
      The Jester

      Soxside (Chicago)


      • #4
        I would never tin the wire. Also use Slot Car Corner lead wire. We use it in the Michigan 24 hour race and have never broken a wire. You can get it at Slot Car Corner or Clover Leaf Racing.
        Butch Dunaway
        Oxford, Ohio


        • #5
          I have found that if you tin the wire it will fray and break off right where the solder ends. Most of my cars used leads with ferrules, those tended to pull out rather easily, but Professor Motor sells ferrules that are slightly larger in diameter and those remain secure. I had one car that used set screws to hold the wire in place, those eventually sawed through the wire. Fortunately I caught that before the wires broke off completely.


          • #6
            Like all of them said ........ especially the point by Docdoom about guide travel. I can't remember when I last broke a guide wire.
            Be sure to use a nice soft silicon coated wire, which doesn't put stress on the conductors inside to bend it, NSR, wires are good examples. Even thinner insulator than if possible.
            If buying an off-brand wire, aim for 22AWG with many fine strands..


            • #7
              Once again I will go against the masses.

              I have been tinning my wires and using set screws for quite awhile.

              NEVER had any issue, no fraying or breaking. Just make sure your flex point is where it needs to be and all works fine.

              I use SCC wire for all my re-wiring. All of our Showdown cars are this way and over the past 4 or 5 years, never a break.

              IMHO this is not a "forever" connection. Over time there are things that need attention. Personally, I have not found a better connection than tinning and set screws in 1/32.

              Set Screw Connection Article Here


              • #8
                Thanks guys. Harry, I also use SCC wire for rewiring. RichD, one of the first things I bought for my parts bin besides grub screws were the PM ferrules. Both of these are ephemeral at my workbench- one minute they are in my clumsy fat mitts and then they aren’t. Even when I use a work tray with side panels they manage to disappear.
                Mike V.
                Western North Carolina