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  • Braids

    I run Carrera digital with stock magnets - all brands of cars. I've been using Slot.it Competition braids - Copper and Tin Plated Copper. I like these braids, but I do get some snag and accelerated wear on some - not all - cars. What other braids should I try for cars with magnets?

  • #2
    Been using the tinned copper here for quite awhile. I use the SCC brand. Cannot think of any reason why the braid would snag or wear prematurely.
    -Harry

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    • #3
      Just a random thought. The softer it is, the more tendency for wear I guess.
      Now the ScaleAuto "soft" braid is actually a bit stiffer than "standard" Slot.it braid that is in cars when you get them - which is stiffer itself than the soft braid they sell aftermarket SP18 and SP19

      SOOOO - maybe you could try the ScaleAuto braid that is 0.5mm thickness if you can find a source.
      I found that 0.5mm braid too stiff for non mag wood track racing. [They have a 0.3mm braid as well, but that is getting softer and less durable]

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      • #4
        The joints in plastic track cause braid wear, much faster than braid or tape. The soft Slot.It braid on the heavy Carrera cars will just wear a bit faster and I am betting that the cars with more wear carry more weight over the guide. Not a big deal. Like Harry said, use the tinned stuff.
        Come Race at The Trace!
        Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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        • #5
          Im with Chappyman regarding sectional joints. First thing is to take a small terry towel or a tube sock turned inside out to expose the loops, and push it around your rail/braid at a fair clip, with gentle pressure. Fix any snags that grab the loops.

          If it appears to be more of a car-centric malady, I'd double check the condition of the guide surfaces to ensure they are all planar. I'd double check the approach angle of the guide(s) on a jig or known good chunk of track where you can see the angle of the dangle.

          Excessive current loading can arc up braids too, though typically it'll be fairly obvious, as the car will be weird from an undue friction, bind, or lubrication issue. Excessive carbon and slag are the indicator. Keep in mind that rigid/fixed braid chassis tend to rat up braids more than an iso or swivel set up.

          Good luck!
          Last edited by Model Murdering; January 13, 2020, 08:27 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Model Murdering View Post
            Im with Chappyman regarding sectional joints. First thing is to take a small terry towel or a tube sock turned inside out to expose the loops, and push it around your rail/braid at a fair clip, with gentle pressure. Fix any snags that grab the loops.

            If it appears to be more of a car-centric malady, I'd double check the condition of the guide surfaces to ensure they are all planar. I'd double check the approach angle of the guide(s) on a jig or known good chunk of track where you can see the angle of the dangle.

            Excessive current loading can arc up braids too, though typically it'll be fairly obvious, as the car will be weird from an undue friction, bind, or lubrication issue. Excessive carbon and slag are the indicator. Keep in mind that rigid/fixed braid chassis tend to rat up braids more than an iso or swivel set up.

            Good luck!
            I have noticed slag/carbon buildup and am probably seeing the weird friction bind you mention. I'm using a variable 15v, 30a power supply that was recommended here I think. What causes excessive current loading? Watching the indicator, I'd say all the cars draw about .5amps normally, .8 w heavier load.

            I'm using a lubricant. Is over lubrication a possibility ? What's a normal application procedure?

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            • #7
              Your low draw numbers are not indicative of a mechanical problem with the car.

              Did you do the snag test yet? Like CM66 said, the fractional differences between rail sections can batter and shred the braids.

              Do you wipe your track before use? First car through loads the braid with foreign matter and fouls the current transfer, the by product is excessive carbon and slag.

              As mentioned above, make the change to tinned braid.

              If you're not, use a braid conditioner.



              .
              Last edited by Model Murdering; January 15, 2020, 10:10 AM.

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              • #8
                Thanks all - tin braids are working well - shouldn’t have gone to copper on so many cars

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