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  • Attaching weights

    I'm sure more experienced slot car racers already have a preferred method for attaching weight, but just in case...

    I am constantly looking for the best amount and placement for lead weight. As often as not, the location I want to affix weight to isn't flat. The self-stick adhesive that comes on the lead I buy doesn't work really well. So, I found something that works great, is reuseable and holds very well on any surface. Check this stuff out: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Loctite-F...E&gclsrc=aw.ds. You can tear it into whatever size you need, no waste, no fuss.

  • #2
    Interesting, I'll check it out.

    I've been using Shoe Goo and works really well.
    Butch Dunaway
    Oxford, Ohio

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    • #3
      I use shoe goo too, it takes about 10 minutes to properly hold.
      On the odd occasion I've used superglue but it doesn't stick to lead as well.
      ...blutac is for posters and other temporary things and is much thicker than a smear of glue.
      Kevan - Isle of Man
      Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜

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      • #4
        I use E6000. Holds great and peels off if you change your mind. (It is not quite as easy to remove as I imply, but it does peel off.)

        Click image for larger version

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        Scott
        Attached Files
        Why doesn't my car run like that?

        Scott

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        • #5
          I've been having the same issue. I found that Slot.it has Tungsten putty. It is heavier than lead, it is sticky and can be put in places that lead won't work. I got some on order to try.

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          • Kevan
            Kevan commented
            Editing a comment
            Tungsten is 70% heavier than lead, Tungsten putty isn't.

          • Kevan
            Kevan commented
            Editing a comment
            ...and I've yet to discover a place that can't have lead fitted.

        • #6
          You might not want to glue those weights to your chassis. Weights mounted so that they can float/rattle a bit act like shock absorbers. I have been having success in my 1/32nd scale cars fastening lead weights with blue painters' tape, just along one edge. The weight lies on top of the chassis, the tape wraps underneath. The tape acts like a hinge, allowing the weight to flop up and down a bit.

          I have also mounted brass weights using miniature 0-80 screws, leaving a gap so the weights can float maybe ten or fifteen thousandths of an inch. I have used two thin brass plates instead one thicker one. More floating plates offers more shock absorption.

          Is shock absorption a big deal in slotcar handling? Yes! Yes it is! Keep those tires on the track where they belong!

          Ed Bianchi
          Last edited by HO RacePro; November 22, 2021, 06:18 AM.
          Ed Bianchi
          York Pennsylvania USA

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          • Kevan
            Kevan commented
            Editing a comment
            If the chassis needs to flex I only put a dab of shoe goo in the middle or one end of the lead. If it's one of my 3D chassis it'll have a pocket to go in, again shoe goo only at each end to let the chassis flex.

          • noddaz
            noddaz commented
            Editing a comment
            Ed, I have been trying to incorporate your Rattler technology into plastic chassis for years. Sometimes it works, and sometimes not so good. Don't misunderstand, it is NOT the idea that doesn't work, it is my application of the idea that sometimes doesn't work.

          • HO RacePro
            HO RacePro commented
            Editing a comment
            I can't claim the rattle weight idea as my own invention. I first saw it used in the Riggen HO car back in the 1960's. I experimented with fastening it down to the chassis with tape, and was stunned by how much better the car ran with the weight free. It wasn't until the 1990's that I tried incorporating a rattle weight into a car of my own design. Again, a huge difference. I am happy to steal a good idea anywhere I can find one, and will shamelessly admit to my theft.
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