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  • #16
    I was going to build a spray booth with a box fan , plastic tote , and a furnace filter . Saw a video of a guy using one like it

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    • #17
      old computer fans are the go 12v and run off your track power supply , for a scratch built spray booth.

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      • #18
        I add a couple of drops jet dry dish washer fluid to my water based paint. It is a surfactant and lowers the surface tension of the water so it just sprays better. spot free glass ware translates to smooth coats of paint. I use cheap acrylic paint from a craft store, thin with water and add the jet dry and the paint sprays as good as the “ airbrush” paints.

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        • dinglebery
          dinglebery commented
          Editing a comment
          That sounds like a great idea! Does it do anything to the durability of the paint? Does it flake and crack if the form is bent? Are its adhesion properties the same?

      • #19
        I found it to be durable , obviously not for a lexan body, but for hardbodies it is as good as anything else. Always spray over a clean primed body. I use automotive primer out of a warmed rattle can.

        I always spray a clear gloss after decaling and this process seems durable. Future is good for a shine, but it doesn’t protect over the long haul of a slot car. These cars are handled and get dirty. One wash with soapy water to clean a grubby car and the future is gone. So I spray a clear gloss to protect the decals and it probably protects any paint I have laid down as well. So from my experience I have had zero problems


        Note. Warmed rattle can= immersion in 45 C water. NOT HOT
        Last edited by Barc 1; June 28, 2020, 11:40 AM.

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        • waaytoomuchintothis
          waaytoomuchintothis commented
          Editing a comment
          That's 113 F for those who don't speak Canadian. And I use an old Mr. Coffee to heat the water bath and it works great.

      • #20
        I have both , rattle cans and different paints that you would need to mix . That is why I was looking for a mix ratio .

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        • #21


          Well Fathead, I always encourage everyone who wants to start painting to get going right away! I've been at it since 2nd grade. I've made every mistake in the book, and invented some of my own. Still practicing, while a fair percentage of my mindset remains in second grade, I've managed to pick up a few things. I'm sure you just want to get some color down, but I'll digress for giggles.



          Obviously we have our wants and whims, but it's important to roll with things and not over react when things wander across the centerline. On this Riv, I had a dark red candy base from House of color going. I lightly puffed some Aztec gold over the top and the whole deal went root beer brown. Just calm the heck down, shoot the clear, and drink up! I guess my point is that beyond the monochrome paints which typically conspire to make mud (brown), we have transparents, candies, pearls, and metallics that frequently interact in fun ways, and create a myriad of effects.

          Of course one can purchase ready to shoot premix, but learning to mix is really the only way to become truly proficient with the airbrush. All the usual painting dogma regarding prep and hygiene still apply. The first hurdle to overcome is understanding the FACT that more pressure does not overcome an excessively viscous mix. The knee-jerk reaction of cranking the boost at the regulator will not make pancake batter lay out like glass, but it is often the precursor to the utterance of "this thing is a piece of crap" and tossing it on the shelf. Poor little airbrush never hurt anyone!

          Consider that the paint gun transfers liquid paint into a flowable semi liquid film onto the work piece. Too thin and it runs, too thick and it splatters. The trick is nailing it.

          Hence the "test shot". Ya dont just load her up, draw down on something you've worked hard to build/prep; and then just pull the trigger when it lines up in the cross hairs. Arguably it's the most overlooked and critical aspect of spray painting. If we're not willing to shoot a test shot to ascertain if additional viscosity adjustment is required, we might as well flip a coin and use either a garden sprinkler or a pressure washer. For any product your unfamiliar with, the manufacturer has the info. U-toob is a good source as well, and it generally shows the result.

          Formula ...? Giggle, everyone has one. So does every product. The comparison to milk is quite accurate whatever the product. Myself, I'm a caveman. I only shoot lacquer, unless I'm held at gunpoint. We wont belabor the whys. Typically, when I decant bomb can lacquer, start somewhere around 1 part paint and 2 parts thinner for my first test shot. A lot depends on the base paint. I may be out as far as 4:1 for brush-able lacquers or gooey enamels.



          This early Aurora plastic was liquefied, then thinned to 6:1 and shot around 20 psi, at point blank range.



          Tailoring the viscosity is kinda the whole point of the airbrush. Note the fuzzy edge of the green fade built from bottom to top. Maximum coverage with minimum material. Especially at the edges. Note how crisp the flame mask edge remains between the two pictures. The material isnt all piled up! The airbrush allow the user to operate in a gentle range of pressure and viscosity which bomb cans simply cant provide. This minimum edge is critical when your shooting stripes or masks. It keeps you from piling material on the tape edge. Certainly the high dollar modeling aerosols feature both viscosity and nozzle sizing that set them apart from the garden furniture bomb cans. Even so, they still cant frost some gold flake on a moths wing. The air brush does this and more. I use a very controlled and therefore relaxing 10 psi or less for cutting and jamming a model, before I raise the pressure and shoot the complete liquid films.



          The top color is shot regulation style from above over the yellow base. Once an agreeable tone was achieved, I rolled the rocker down and away, pulled the shooting distance back a ways and let the metallic fade from top to bottom in the reverse direction.


          As part of your kit, it's nice to have a small, fine mesh screen to strain all paints. I can tell right away if my viscosity is close, simply by how the mix goes through the strainer or drips off the stir stick. Graduated specimen cups are a good low buck mixing and temporary storage container. A pill container with a metric rule works in a pinch too (the math is easier). Something to use as a pipette is useful for transferring liquids from one small container to another. A large bore plastic tipped hypodermic or two, like the oral surgeon sends you home with, are practically irreplaceable. It allows me to thin at a drop by drop rate. Plastic picnic ware is nice. Nothing simulates a model better for the test shot than a "spork". An assortment of cleaning brushes at the ready. Gloves and towels ... duh? ... and most importantly replacement o-rings for the one that goes behind the nozzle.

          The type of brush has to be considered. I used a dual action rig for smaller jobs and effects painting, and a "single action" for larger jobs. You have a fixed delivery system, the SA; and a variable one, the DA. They are two different worlds.

          The SA is essentially a mini bomb can because the nozzle is of a fixed diameter, ergo the pressure requirement is more or less fixed to the nozzle size as well. Point, push down on the button and shoot. The only adjustment beyond your base viscosity is the air pressure.

          The DA's use a tapered needle to vary the amount of fluid entering the air stream behind the nozzle like a conventional paint gun. This means that both the air pressure and fluid volume are adjustable, with the fluid volume being variable on the fly. You push down on the lever to engage the predetermined air pressure, then with the air "on" you ease the lever back to meter the liquid paint into the air stream. The advantage of the DA allows the user to dial the pressure down and meter paint so fine that you can count the atomized droplets or flakes.

          Siphon or top loader? I like the siphon unit. You can use the jar for larger jobs, and what they provide as the cleaning cup for small areas. When I paint an H0 scale body, I use the cleaning cup exclusively. I have always found the top loaders to be a bit messy, and difficult to flush and quick change colors on small projects, but in all fairness, Im pretty set in my ways.

          Technique and muscle memory only come from repetition. Good practices have to be enforced until it becomes rote. I'll toss in that over-lapping your strokes isnt the same as over lapping your pattern. We overlap the stroke so that the coverage is never short. In production we come on and off the trigger so we're not painting the air $. When you come on and off the trigger is where "not fully atomized" liquid drops/schlock can get spattered onto the work. Establish and check the fan off the piece, then pull it on. Same deal going off the stroke. Pull the fan past the work and come off the trigger. Overlapping the fan ensures proper coverage and consistent tone, so ya dont get the tattletale lateral striping or blotching. Sounds the same but in practice, they are two totally different things.

          Now here's a DA trick no one tells you about. You can pull the needle back from the nozzle and lock it in place. Essentially turning the DA into an SA. Significant when one is trying to layout a larger area, AND keep the tone uniform. The odd lever action of the DA can be fatiguing for some users when they have to push down and hold back for long periods. By locking the needle back you simply point and shoot. I also use the lock-back when shooting larger flake that wants to ball up at the interface just behind the nozzle. By clearing the area behind the interface some heavier flake can travel better without wadding up and sputtering the job.

          Another immutable rule is to use good masking tape, and dont lay the roll in the dirt on your work top. Store it in it's own tupperware. Tamiya is tried and true. I often use 3M opaque desk tape and razor a clean edge myself using a machinists rule on a mirror I stole from the TM.

          The first last most important thing is to always clean your rig immediately after use. Always flush the nozzle between color changes, prolonged flash times, or re-loads. It's a simple thing to to pull the cup or the pot, and stuff the nozzle into some thinner and blow it out. Always a lot easier than living with a turd on the hood or roof of your new model, cuz thats where they always wind up. When done, break the rig down and clean and dry the parts. Both water and window cleaner can be corrosive if left unattended. I store mine dis-assembled to extend the packing life.

          There's the head games too. I plan everything out and play it out in my mind. I only paint when I'm in a good mood. I choose better colors, better accents, and my head is clear. It's always best to be relaxed and mentally prepared, because mayhem is always lurking ... there's no rush. LOL.



          As mayem goes, I dropped an eyelash in the first liquid coat of clear right next to the injector stacks. Remain calm. Pick the offending hair off, ease back on the fluid lever and fill the goofy rumpled looking spot so it becomes even with the remainder of the first coat. Rather than waiting, I went straight to the second liquid coat. I got away with it because my base orange and light gold metallic were dry, and had been sealed previously with two dust coats of clear. Whew!

          If I had any helpful advice/observation in the overall sense, it is that folks have been brow beaten to the point that they are "run" paranoid, so the mix is usually too viscous, the shooting distance is nervously pulled back, and the resulting delivery is dry. As a general rule, when the conditions are correct, a spray painter is right down on the work at the optimal shooting distance. The delivery is liquid and flowable. Of course there are exceptions.

          I could go on for days, most of it is about what not to do. The important part is to pull that trigger often and let it fly!
          Last edited by Model Murdering; June 29, 2020, 06:12 PM.

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          • #22
            *Whew* There is an absolute treasure trove of information from Model Murdering and others! Thank you all! I just *might* get over my fear of airbrushing!

            Scott

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            • #23
              I tried to get a chrome look. I have ,maybe, 8-9 rattle cans of silver, chrome, and several other names.
              The one I likes best was by Dutch Boy. Until I wanted to protect it with a layer of clear. GRAY !!!!
              I also tried with my Testor Aztec air brush, I use compressed air. Same difference.
              Good luck and don't give up. Edison tried numerous time and failed. As he said " I now know what not to use" Paraphased.

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              • #24
                Frank,

                I think we have all accumulated a row of silver bomb cans on our paint shelf in the quest for chrome. They all lay out looking like cast aluminum for the most part. As you mentioned clear doesnt help the cause .

                My choice has been Alclad chrome lacquer. They recommend a gloss black base for it, and of course there are a bunch of tricks to making it work. Mainly that more than one light coat puts you right back at cast aluminum look. The ole less is more deal, but as shot, it's pretty striking

                The real problem is that it rubs pretty easily, so protection is mandatory. Again, the second you hit it with clear the effect is dulled. Thus far, some light dry puffs of clear work best for mitigating the dulling effect. I tried a dip in Future/Johnsons, which was satisfactory at best ... meh.

                In the interest of rounding out my silver collection I'd like to decant a Molotow pen, or get a refill, and try and shoot it.




                Here's a fair representation of Alclad in a side by side comparison vs some factory vacuplating. The roll bar and injector bells are stainless, the rims and the bundle of snakes exhaust are Alclad lightly duffed with clear.

                Still searching ... LOL



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                • #25
                  I want to thank you all for the info . It is now that I have to , basically , get my feet wet and jump in to the deep end and start painting

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                  • Wobble
                    Wobble commented
                    Editing a comment
                    You'll get more than your feet wet jumping in the deep end ... take a big breath just in case. And ... good luck with your efforts.

                • #26
                  Molotow Liquid Chrome pens get the closest to a chrome finish of anything that I have tried. If you have to go over a spot the effect may be lost and clearcoating would probably have the same effect as it does with most other finishes. The Alclad finish with a light clearcoat looks good.

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                  • #27
                    Molotow Liquid Chrome works extremely well in an airbrush.......better than the pens !! ,.....and,Molotow gives the best "chrome" effect currently available . (you can use the ink from the refill container as is)

                    It is an ink, and virtually all clear coats will result in a finish that looks no better than silver paint. ........however, ...Future/Pledge will have almost zero effect , ...IF ,the Molotow Chrome is given sufficient drying time (5/6 days).

                    If you are just displaying the model, there is no need to clear with future, but, if the model is to be handled/raced etc ., clearcoating it is a must.

                    Cheers
                    Chris Walker
                    Last edited by chrisguyw; July 2, 2020, 07:35 AM.

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                    • Model Murdering
                      Model Murdering commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Thank you for the clarification Chris. I was under the misconception that Molotow was an enamel. I'll give it a whirl. Now I have an excuse to go to Hobby Lobby ... oh darn ... hahahahaha.

                      Bill

                  • #28
                    I have both , the Molotow chrome pens and a bottle of chrome paint . So I will be able to see which will look the best

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                    • #29
                      Molotow should be the last thing you do to detail a car. clear coats will either dull it or cause it to run. Once done set it on the shelf and let it dry. Best chrome finish attainable IMO

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                      • chrisguyw
                        chrisguyw commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Dan, as mentioned above,....if you let the Molotow dry completely (5/6 days) it can be overcoated with Future, with no deterioration .....I have done this quite a few times.
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