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A.J. Foyt NASCAR '67 Fairlane

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  • A.J. Foyt NASCAR '67 Fairlane

    A few weeks ago I made a post about wanting to add an A.J. Foyt car to my slot car stable. I could have gone for a Le Mans car such as the one he won the race with when he was a co-driver with Dan Gurney. But if I want Foyt to race against the other best drivers of that era whose cars I already have the ideal class is my Grand National - NASCAR (GNN) class of American stock cars. Over the past few months I've added Revell-Monogram cars driven by Andretti, Gurney, Lorenzen, Fireball Roberts, and notable others to the GNN roster. Since I couldn't find an RTR Foyt stock car the solution was to buy an unpainted Revell-Monogram '67 Fairlane body and make a replica of the one driven by A.J.

    Click image for larger version

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    The new releases of Revell-Monogram Fairlane and Galaxie bodies made by Professor Motor are nearly sold out everywhere, but I was able to purchase 2 of the '67 Fairlane bodies from Clover Leaf. I had a can of Valspar red spray paint in my closet so I went ahead and used that. The color came out great but it took about 4 day to dry, before that it was still tacky when touched. I know this isn't the ideal paint for modeling but it's what I had handy and I was eager to get going.

    Click image for larger version

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    It's now dry and I'm ready to apply the SlotCar-Fever decals shown above. I typically only deal with RTR cars because I'm basically clueless about types of paint and what does or doesn't work with what. As a result I never clearcoat cars after decals even though I do have several types of spray on clear as well as an unused bottle of Future floor wax.

    If I decide to try to give this car a nice finish after decals what will be a good option? Thanks for comments and feedback.



  • #2
    Tamiya clear in very fine, light mist coats.

    Comment


    • slothead
      slothead commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you.

  • #3
    Personally I use Future (pledge floor shine now). I brush it on and give another coat after drying time.

    But thats just me.

    Some decals (like these) will react badly to harsh (hot) clears from the can if you get too heavy. So if you do, follow above advice and VERY light misting coats.
    -Harry

    Comment


    • slothead
      slothead commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the input. I've only applied the bottom white decals so far because they were very thin and hard to get straight and flat. That was about 2 weeks ago giving them plenty of time to dry and adhere before putting on the outer ones (shown with the car). After I get both layers of decals on and let the dry completely I'll try some Future on the trunk. I don't think I have any Tamiya clear but was going to order some if that was the best option.

  • #4
    If those decals came from ebay seller twolfe, they are the same as what I got for my beach racer which is printed with a black background. My car is painted with Tam black lacquer. Decals were cut as close as possible and after drying the edges blackened with a sharpie. I cleared it pretty heavy with Tam clear lacquer. Seller said the decals were finished with clear lacquer and there were zero issues when I cleared them. Usually I prefer Future.
    Matt B
    So. In
    Crashers

    Comment


    • slothead
      slothead commented
      Editing a comment
      I ordered the decals from SlotCar-Fever and their name is on the sheet(s). They have a massive selection of NASCAR decals, including those for Daytona 500 winners year-by-year. I don't have any decal setting solution or such so I just do my best even though I do get wrinkles and occasional tearing. To address that I always buy 2 of everything so I have spares.
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