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Pattos Place Decals... and Allclad clears

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  • Pattos Place Decals... and Allclad clears

    Hi all. I'm interested in knowing if anyone has used Allclad Clear Kote or Aqua Gloss over a Pattos decal, and how it held up? I asked Patto himself and he hasn't tried it. He did say that Future is the only one he found (without knowing what else he's tried) that did not wrinkle the ink.

    Also, how about 2K clear? Has anyone tried that?

  • #2
    Hello, While I generally use/prefer decals from suppliers other than Pattos' ( I prefer the quality/registration of Indycals, DMC, Atalaya, RevellMonogram etc.), I have used Pattos' decals on many many cars over the years,...and still occasionally do.

    While Future/Pledge will not harm any decals I have ever used, it is far from the most durable clear, and, if you do use lane stickers on your bodywork, the lane stickers can often pull the Future (and underlying decals from the car.....ask me how I know ).

    I most often use Tamiya TS clear (gloss, and semi gloss) and if you apply several light mist coats,(30 mins. in between) you will not have any issues. It adheres well, the quality/consistency is excellent, and it is as tough as anything I have used. That said, it does make for a somewhat lengthy process, one which many do not have the patience for.

    Over the years, I have tried just about every clear coat going, (all that you mentioned) and while they all have slightly different application techniques (videos on most on Youtube), they all tend to work best when applied in a few light coats, rather than one or two heavy ones.......I have not had any decal issues with any of them.

    At the end of the day, for a quick, easy, stress free job, Future maybe what you are looking for, but, there are far better alternatives out there.

    Chris Walker

    PS I am sure that you are well aware that letting the decals fully dry, is equally important,......any residual moisture under the decal, may/will react with the clear, and cause bubbling.


    • #3
      If you are trying a new combination of clear coat and decals it is best to do a test. Future is water based and has not damaged any decals that I have used it with, but Future is not very durable and may eventually rub off. I prefer to coat decals with Future after they are on the car as a barrier coat, then cover everything with a more robust solvent based clear like Testors clear lacquer or Krylon Crystal Clear.
      Last edited by RichD; October 15, 2021, 08:20 AM.


      • #4
        That sounds good Rich,


        • #5
          Any good clear enamels that could be sprayed over a lacquer finish (and decals)?
          Team SCANC
          Woodland Trace Raceway - SlotZuka - Bent Tree Raceway
          OFI - Buena Vista Motorsports Park - Slotkins Glen
          Leadfinger Raceway


          • chrisguyw
            chrisguyw commented
            Editing a comment
            Enamels dry very (very) slowly, and are much softer than lacquers/acrylics,...........not ideal for slotcars.

          • Fast Co.
            Fast Co. commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Chris. I was thinking along the lines that the enamel would be more durable. I'll stick with lacquer. I like the way it goes on better anyway.

        • #6
          I usually apply 2 coats of Lacquer clear coat over the color like Tamiya or Testors let it air out a few days watersand with 2000 grit and soapy water using dish soap in the water apply the decals then 2 coats of Krylon Shortcuts enamel gloss clear or test clear gloss coat enamel DO NOT use 2K clear over Patto's decal
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          Jeff Fitzpatrick
          Troy, New York


          • Fast Co.
            Fast Co. commented
            Editing a comment
            Beautiful work there!

        • #7
          I have the least amount of problems with Mr Hobby clear over Pattos decals. I had some success with Tamiya TS-13 but found it you get it slightly wrong you can burn the decals.
          I have used Mr Top Coat Gloss and the Flat clear so far. Mist coats building up in layers to the finish you want.

          Dangermouse to the rescue.


          • #8
            Thank you all for your wisdom! I should've mentioned in my OP that I will not use Future - and to please keep all comments related to it out of this discussion... I'm interested in anything else, like Tamiya and Mr Hobby clears which I've never used and whether they act nicely together. Yep I'm also aware I need to let the decals dry fully and then apply light mist coats - I made that mistake already when I cleared my first car. And I also know to do some tests beforehand - work smarter not harder!

            Thanks Chris, I'll pick up some Tamiya TS clear and try that!
            Rich and Fitzy, coating the decals first with something that will not harm them is a novel idea, but I don't want to extend the amount of time it takes to complete the body. Nice job on those cars Fitzy!
            DM, thanks for the insight! Seems like I'll do the test with some Mr Hobby clear also.

            Stay tuned... once I have the Tamiya and Mr Hobby clears I'll post some pics of the results. A picture is worth a thousand words u know!


            • #9
              Originally posted by dinglebery View Post
              Thanks Chris, I'll pick up some Tamiya TS clear and try that!
              I think that you will be happy with Tamiya TS clear Gloss and Semi Gloss....I use their SemiGloss more often than not these days as I feel it gives a more realistic shine.

              A few points to remember/consider.

              1/ Tamiya TS paints are "hot" and will harm decals if applied too heavy/thick, so apply a few very light "mist" coats, waiting 30mins. in between coats. Being "hot" each coat will slightly melt the surface of each previous coat, and after a few mist coats, the surface will become smooth and do not worry about andy"orange peel" on the first few mist not rush !!

              2/ As with any aerosol spray, it is strongly suggested that you shake the can well, and place the can into some hot tap water for a couple of minutes before spraying..............this will pressurize the propellant in the can, which will result in the paint leaving the can in finer droplets,......good for a nice smooth finish !!

              3/ For a Concours finish, you can use Tamiya rubbing compounds (fine and finish) to achieve a mirror like finish. If you choose to do this, let the paint cure for a couple of days,.....this will allow the paint to fully harden and "cut" much cleaner/nicer with the compound.

              Chris Walker

              Tamiya TS clear "Gloss".........I did these two years ago before Tamiya launched their "Semi Gloss" be honest, I find them a bit too glossy.

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              And Tamiya TS "Semi Gloss, which I find much more realistic, especially for older cars.......

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              Last edited by chrisguyw; June 1, 2021, 09:07 AM.


              • dinglebery
                dinglebery commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks for the tips! Excellent work you do, I aspire to be that good!! About the TS paint, I'm planning on airbrushing it - so the 23ml bottles is the largest I can find. Is it the X-35 SG Clear I want? I can only find that in a mini 10ml bottle. Am I missing something?

              • chrisguyw
                chrisguyw commented
                Editing a comment
                The Tamiya "X" series paints are completely different than the TS sprays..............."X" are pure acrylic, while the TS are synthetic lacquer...............if you wish to spray (airbrush) "X" series paints over decals you will have no issues, as they are not "hot" like the TS synthetic lacquers

            • #10
              While doing a home reno project I discovered a water based semi gloss clear coat that is used for hardwood floors, Miniwax Polycrylic is the name of the stuff. It comes in about 500 ml can and is really inexpensive with respect to normal hobby finishes. Self leveling so it brushes on really well, and I have thinned it with water and sprayed it as well. I found that brushing it on gives results so good, I don’t bother with the airbrushing anymore. Biggest thing is there is no yellowing. Just make sure your decal work is dry, and this stuff won’t wrinkle them.

              Doesn’t take much either . Two brush dips applied and the car is done. In less than 30 minutes you can handle the car. It seems to have a decal set property as well. I used it to set a roundal on a complex fender and it set it down well.

              One 500 ml can will probably last a life time. Again this stuff is not glossy, but its appearance on the car has a realistic look to it. Gloss in real life only happens instantly after a waxing, and is soon dulled with road dust.

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              Last edited by Barc 1; June 1, 2021, 11:12 AM.

              G.P Alberta


              • #11
                I believe that the Minwax is a polyurethane, I will have to try it sometime.


                • #12
                  If the poly works fine over decals and is not shiny enough, I bet you could wait a couple days and put some hot lacquer clear over it. Tamiya and Testors is all I use, but I do have to spray it lightly. There seems to be a big difference in all decals. Patto has a new printer and has a better decal than from a few years ago. Just a lot of difference in decals. I've actually had some wrinkles using Future. Future does seem to be the least risky of them all.

                  Indycals with Tam lacquer. Michael's decals seem to do OK with light coats of lacquer.

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                  Matt B
                  So. In


                  • dinglebery
                    dinglebery commented
                    Editing a comment
                    When you say "spray it lightly" - is that from an airbrush? If so, what bottles do you buy from each? Part numbers or links to them would be very helpful!

                • #13
                  I started my journey...
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                  • #14
                    Decals are complete - except I need to redo the CF front lip. Now the task of clear coating it. I'm reluctant because of all the responses and things I've heard from videos on the 'tube, so I'll wait for a semi trailer model to arrive, I'll apply some of Pattos decals I'll never use, and clear it with different ones to see what effects they each have. Keep you posted!

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                    • Mickey thumbs
                      Mickey thumbs commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Good plan, best to play it safe. A few dust coats before the final finish coat is helpful.

                  • #15
                    The Pattos decal panel is complete and drying. Next I need to spray the individual panels with the 6 different types of clear and see how the decals make it through. More to come!
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