Cheetah Update

[Mickey thumbs]

Here is the completed Cheetah that you helped me with in my Body Shop post. Followed chrisw’s lead and cut down a plastic wheel and rubber Goodyear for the rear deck. Paint is Tamiya Italian red over light gray primer. Went with a fantasy livery because I couldn’t decide on a real one to copy. #6 is from the Cox 1/32 box art, Pure and Champion decals after one of the historic cars and the Bardahl because they were featured prominently on several versions of Bill Thomas’s cars.


The undersized rear wheel/tire combo is because it races with my slot.it Classics and similar scratchbuilds from the era and would not be competitive with the higher C.O.G. that correct scale ones would create.
Overall pleased with the car. It handles better than expected and looks good from a distance.😄 lol! Not sure how the windshield got fogged. The resident Poltergeist may be to blame. They seem to be causing more trouble since the Covid quarantine started.

[Austin]

I just love that car, great job

[chrisguyw]

Lookin good Mickey !!...............how do you apply/coat your decals ??......looks like you have a bit of wrinkling on your right hand side number/roundel.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Mickey thumbs]

The door handle caused the roundel to wrinkle. I just used water on these. I bought some Sol-set and Micro-sol and have begun to figure out how to use them with some leftover decals and plastic body parts. Seems tricky because different decals seem to react differently. These were from Electric Dreams and seem to be reproduction of the Cox set. The Pure Oil is from a Revell-Monogram set.

Any tips about using the setting solutions is welcome. I’m sure a lot of you more experienced builders have plenty to offer.

[chrisguyw]

Hello Mickey,.......I use Micro-set on all my decals, and, it is a good habit to get into. Micro set does soften the decal a bit to let it conform to the contours of the body, and, it improves the adhesion of the decal glue to the body. Micro -set is safe for all the decals I have used over the last 40/50 years) Just brush a bit on to the body where the decal will go, and then place the decal. Blot the decal (you can use a bit of pressure) with a paper towel/kleenex. ...this should make decal conform to most surface detail.

If you are clearcoating, let the decal dry completely (24/48hrs.) as if there is any moisture under the decal surface, it will react with the clearcoat, and bubbles/wrinkles will occur.

If you are applying a decal to a surface with compound curves , or, if your decals are on thick decal paper, you may need some Micro-sol............this really softens the decal and will let the decal conform to some intricate surfaces, but, it can be too aggressive for some of the more modern (thin) decals.
To use it (if you must) ........go through the Micro-set procedure, then brush a thin coat of Micro-sol over the decal.............for a perfect job, wait a minute or so, and, use a hair dryer on med heat/med air flow to heat the decal,....this may take a minute or two, and, it will essentially melt the decal, letting it conform to compound curves, rivet heads, shut lines etc. DO NOT touch the decal as you are heating it.

I have used this method for many years, and I have always been pleased with the results.

While there are many decal solutions on the market, I have always gone back to "Micro" products.

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS........this is not a great example, but, this decal was coated with Micro-sol, and then heated with a hair dryer........it sits flat, and conforms to the compound curves.