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My Ford Fairlane project.

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  • My Ford Fairlane project.

    Scott and Harry finally got me to bite the bullet on building one of these after all their postings. I have the intention of sending it in to the Summer Slam, but because of the way I built it I thought posting it here may benefit more people.

    Since I don't have an oval, I thought I would probably get more enjoyment out of the car if it could turn reasonably well in both directions. So I decided to replicate a 1/24 chassis we race a lot called the "Econo chassis" in our parts. It is essentially a really simple "rattle" chassis design, where the center section of the chassis slides independently of the pans. This has a few different positive effects on handling, but mainly I went after this design as a compromise because most of the weight of the chassis can offset itself around .080" inches in a turn. In an oval this "should" help.

    A small note if you want to try and employ this type of chassis design, it is only going to effective where the tires are smaller than the fender arches so they can telescope in and out. Also, if you have rules in your club that your tires must remain in the fenders at all times this isn't going to work the best!

    It is probably too heavy to be a front runner on the oval, but is should do well on a road course as well.

    Here is a list of the chassis parts I used:

    I cannot remember the dimension of the rectangle tubing for the guide tongue, I will update. But I drilled it 9/64 for a nice tight fit on the Sloting plus guide.
    Professor motor motor bracket. I shaved it down a lot up top to remove weight. I used this because I want to shim the crown internally which is easier to setup than using the tube style mountings.
    .063" front pan
    .055" Piano wire main rails
    1/8" od Tubing front axle
    3/32 square tube on top of the guide tongue for axle support
    .055" "u" shaped wire on the back of the axle.
    .032 side pans
    3/32 square tube "slides" mounted on the center pan
    .062" piano "guide" wires, connected to the side pans with another short piece of .062" wire

    It is really important with this type of chassis design that both of the "slides" are perfectly parallel, or else you will end up with some binding. I took my time and this one is nice and smooth!

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Nice write up and pics. Good job.
    Dave
    Dave
    Saginaw Valley Raceway
    Only Rule: Just enjoy who you are racing with.

    Comment


    • #3
      Zack, That is coming along really good.
      Robert- Shoreline Model Raceways Club
      Connecticut, U.S.A.

      Comment


      • ZackM
        ZackM commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you, I definitely looked at some of your cars for inspiration!

        Zack

    • #4
      Fairlanes did turn left...and right.
      USAC at Mosport 1967.
      Click image for larger version

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      • #5
        I'm not really a Ford guy but Fairlanes and Galaxies, I like them both so I'm all ears (or eyes), ..... and, that chassis looks smashing.
        Bram,
        CHCH NZ

        Comment


        • ZackM
          ZackM commented
          Editing a comment
          I am normally a GM guy, but these Fairlanes just look so good with a big set of meats on them!

          Zack

      • #6
        Thanks Zack, I have been a Ford guy close to 50 years. I even race Fords when I use to race 1:1 cars.
        Robert- Shoreline Model Raceways Club
        Connecticut, U.S.A.

        Comment


        • #7
          Great pics and info! Looking forward to updates!

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          • #8
            Last nights progress on the car.

            I painted the wheels and got them glued and trued. Then started working on hogging out the wheel wells and getting the body mounts installed. I am sure I am completely happy with my solution there so I may go back and work on it some more. But it has the stance I was after!

            I weathered the chrome a bit in the front, (I might take a little more off) and built a spoiler out of .020" Styrene. I also shaved the door handles.

            Pretty happy with how it looks, Just need to finish up the mounting and give the body a coat of paint!

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            • Kevan
              Kevan commented
              Editing a comment
              Fricken love it!

          • #9
            Dave J
            Millstadt, Illinois

            Comment


            • #10
              WOW! That thing looks low and fast just sitting there, Great job.
              Robert- Shoreline Model Raceways Club
              Connecticut, U.S.A.

              Comment


              • ZackM
                ZackM commented
                Editing a comment
                Thank you! Happy with how it is looking so far...Just gotta keep plugging along!

            • #11
              I got the chassis up and running yesterday, although I haven't driven it yet.....

              I used some of the Mr. Slotcar silicone washers on the pan to isolate the body mounts (1/4 thick abs plastic w/jb weld) from the pans. Right now I am just using two front screws, and the rear of the body is just held up by some abs sitting on top of the pans. We will see if I have any rubbing issues at this height. If i do I will just add another washer to raise it up .020". I did do a little more trimming in the back to give some breathing room, just going to have to run it and see how much flex is going on!

              I internally shimmed the crown gear, which I will replace with a lighter one for the oval. But it should be nice and smooth.

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              • #12
                Sitting on the track like that, Makes it look even faster.
                Robert- Shoreline Model Raceways Club
                Connecticut, U.S.A.

                Comment


                • #13
                  Looking dang good to me sir, well done!
                  -Harry

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                  • #14
                    Liking the green accents!!!

                    Dundee Denny

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                    • #15
                      slammed and dunked
                      Bram,
                      CHCH NZ

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