Lamborghini Countach

[vtecfour]

Just picked up this Monogram Lamborghini Countach Snap Tite assembled kit from another glue bomb stash. One of my favorite supercars so with all the important parts (body, glass, wheels) there, time to make it roll.



Gathered and cut pieces for one of my adjust-o-wheel base slimline chassis...

- .064" x 3/4" brass sheet - guide tongue and cross members
- 5/32" brass tube - guide post to be bored out to 9/64" to accept a Sloting Plus Universal guide, 7mm deep
- 3/32" brass square tube - main rails and front axle tube support
- .062" piano wire - guide tongue/front axle assembly sliders
- 1/8" brass tube - front axle holder
- .032"x 1/2" brass sheet - side pans



...and assembled the drivetrain parts.

- 3D printed slimline FF050 motor pod
- Scalextric Sport FF050 slimline motor, green, 25K
- Mitoos F1 rims with home made urethane tires
- BRM Nascar 14.5 rims with home made urethane tires

Cut and filed the kit's wheels into inserts. Won't need them for awhile so might as well make a mold for future resin casts.



Dan

[Fathead59]

I am going to be watching this build with interest . I picked up the same model and was going to kit bash it with another slot car chassis that had the same wheel base .

[chappyman66]

I find these to be interesting....I did the Ferrari F40, and have the 512BB waiting. I didn't do the Countach, but it's in that same SnapTite series. Not bad models, and eminently slot-able.
Yours will be a huge improvement on mine, though.

[Dogsbody]

Nice! I've the AutoArt version in both white and red one of which will get an aftermarket chassis. I did manage to fit an HRS sidewinder (that took some doing!) chassis complete with cut down inserts on an AA Miura that I gave to a friend. I wish I had kept that...

[vtecfour]

Got the chassis assembled and rolling.



Test fitted the body.











Would like the body lower. Maybe tuck the wheels in with a narrower track or true the tires down.

Dan

[chrisguyw]

Would like the body lower. Maybe tuck the wheels in with a narrower track or true the tires down.

Dan

Couldn't agree more..........I like the true the tires down a tad option the best

Cheers
Chris Walker

[vtecfour]

Tri-post mounted the body and got the desired lowered stance. The tapered wheel arches were the obstruction so slight narrowing of the tracks and grinding of the inner body made it happen.









That's much better.

Dan

[LegOutOfBed]

I still feel like I do when my wife holds up a roll of fabric, and a paper pattern with a coloured drawing of Barbie on it, and says " will this make a great dress? "

I need colour, decals - please feed my simpleton lack of imagination . . . quickly like, please. The Count used to give me those kind of dreams...

[demether]

I'm always impressed by the chassis building !

[chappyman66]

Great stance.....looks much better. Having seen an AutoArt version struggle around a track in stock form, this will be a tremendous improvement.

I always feel better at this point of a build...... when I know it runs without binding or other issues, the finishing work is much easier.

[KK Racing]

Looking great so far. I'm interested in seeing how good it will look finished.
Is there any perticular reason why you are powering it with an FF-050 motor?

Cheers
KK

[vtecfour]

Chassis's powered with my motor of choice, the FF050 slimline, for small car builds (low profile, low weight, adequate power). Their lack of braking doesn't bother me as my controller settings are usually adjusted for little braking that suits my driving style.







Gear ratio's 3.375:1 with SRP 8t pinion and Slot It 27t crown gears.

Since I'm using the kit's interior tray, there's no relief until it's fitted.









Lots of cutting and grinding so there's clearance for the chassis and wheels/tires.

Wheel inserts removed from the mold for future inserts and test fitted.





Looks right so onto the modelling.

Dan

[Dodgefarmer]

Dan, could we get a better look at your rear body mounts please?

Thanks
Randy

[vtecfour]

Randy, added the requested pic. Make my posts from Evergreen 3/16" styrene tube and push in threaded brass screw inserts for 2-56 screws. The two side posts have added plastic styrene to make up the gap between the post and inner body contour. Lots of JB Weld Quick epoxy used to secure everything.

[Eric P]

Is it difficult to take apart a kit already put together? Any tips or tricks?

[vtecfour]

From recent experience dismantling 1/24 model kit (decades old) builds for conversion, the degree of ease or difficulty depends on the amount of adhesive used to put together parts. I use a thin and broad screwdriver flat blade with as long a shaft for leverage and pry very carefully at the joint. My success rate might be 50 per cent at best.

Fortunately in this case, the Snap Tite kit pieces are fitted by friction with no glue. That was really helpful when modifying the interior tray and checking for fit repeatedly to clear the chassis and wheels/tires

More progress tonight.





Wanted more definition on the rims, so painted the inside of the rims, matte black, and drilled out the wheel insert hole impressions with a 1/16" drill bit.

That worked.

Dan

[KK Racing]

The inserts look far better drilled out, nice job.

[vtecfour]

Interior tray paint detailed with black, brown, tan and silver paint. Highlighted the glass edges with black tape.



Still deciding on a white or red body. Not a big problem.

Dan