Ford GT40 Mk. IV

[vtecfour]

Built quite a few Ferraris lately, so this is a timely build with the recent Ford vs. Ferrari movie and documentary.

Put together sidewinder layout chassis pieces to fit under a NSR Ford GT40 Mk. IV body.

main rails and front axle uprights - .055" piano wire
guide tongue and cross members - .064" brass strip
sidewinder pans - .032" brass strip
sidewinder pan hinges - .032" piano wire
guide tube - 5/32" brass tube bored out to 9/64" to fit Sloting Plus guide
front axle tube - 1/8" brass tube

Other parts include:
motor pod - 3DRon printed FF050 sidewinder
rear rims/tires - CB Design 15 x 10 insert rims/Paul Gage
front rims/tires - BRM Nascar 14 x 8 rims/unknown
wheel inserts - Slot It GT40
axle bushing - Slick 7 bronze bushing, 3/32" x 3/16"



Will be running soon.

Dan

[Beast Lee]

Looking forward to this one Dan...

[vtecfour]

Chassis's assembled and running after a little disaster. Cracked the 3DRon FF050 slimline motor pod beyond repair installing the motor. My last one, but fortunately my parts bin had a 3DRon S can pod with the same mounting points.











Motor pod's mounted with adjustability as learned from Chrisguyw's builds and advice. Sloting Plus flat head 2mm screws are routed from below through the pod mounting points and affixed above with a washer and nyloc nuts. Dart Hobbies urethane spacers are sandwiched between the motor pod and chassis cross member for some rebound. This has proven indispensable for my chassis builds to get all four tires planted simultaneously.

Power's a Slot It 21K orange S can with their 12t pinion, 6.5mm and 38t spur, 19mm for a 3.17:1 ratio.

Has a nice driveable feel with good acceleration.

On to body mounting and cosmetics.

Dan

[chappyman66]

Another fantastic build. Looking forward to the cosmetics.

[vtecfour]

Was advised by chrisguyw to add a urethane washer between the metal washer and motor pod so now "sandwiched" for more controlled rebound especially for torquier S can motors. Made sense so easily changed.



Body's on with a tri-post system. Think it takes advantage of my flexi side pans for a handling benefit.









Going with the same blue treatment as my 34 Ford panel van build with Halibrand wheel inserts in dark gray..

Dan

[chappyman66]

That's going to be a fantastic looking car...the stance is great. I tried the two point mount....but found the bodies rocked too much and on close fits they had tire rub. That was all fixed when I went to the three point mount. And since you have some floppy pans, you get great movement not to mention the pod flex.

[JEL]

Dan,
That is a beautiful build. I like that pod design, are they available for sale or is the print file available?

[chrisguyw]

And since you have some floppy pans, you get great movement not to mention the pod flex.

The side pans on this chassis "flex "as they are soldered to the main rails via thin piano wire "L's, as opposed to "floppy" movement via tube/piano wire hinges....... this concentrates the weight of the pans on to the chassis, as opposed to adding it to the body, where it is detrimental to handling.........you don't want a heavy mass moving around trying to pull the car (inertia) off the track.

Hinged "floppy" pans were popular on Lexan (very light) bodies, where the body weight was relatively insignificant, and the inertia effect was slight. Several years ago brass/steel chassis builders moved away from hinged pans, preferring to keep any "moveable" weight as light as possible, with as much of the total cars weight on the chassis, not the body.

Happy Holidays
Chris Walker

[vtecfour]

@ JEL - the 3DRon sidewinder pods for S can and FF050 slimline motors are available from Ron, a fellow Vancouver Slot Car Club member. He can be contacted at rgdesnoyers2006"at"yahoo"dot"ca.

Cosmetics moving along with wheel inserts/knock offs detailed and installed. Then a whole more bunch of painting of the interior tray/driver, motor detail, headlights/tail lights and side mirrors. Head light covers were sanded for trial fitting. Going to adapt Pioneer Mustang sheets 2 and 4 decals for a somewhat Mk. IV look.



On to the main body.

Dan

[chrisguyw]

Hi Dan, You are likely done "decaling" by now, but, in case not.........Indycals produce 6/7 sets of decals for various Mk11/Mk1V'S......all include the door sill "Ford" decal.

They are excellent quality !!

Happy Holidays
Chris Walker

Just one of their 'Ford" sheets.......this one a Mk11.



I used one of their Mk11 sheets on a Mk1....

[Mitch58]

Thanks for the info Chris.
I'm currently restoring a Strombecker J car on a brass chassis and can probably find what I'm looking for there.

[vtecfour]

Thanks for the decal info, Chris.

Sprayed on Tamiya Fine White primer.







Good progress so far.

Dan

[vtecfour]

Done!

Sprayed on Tamiya TS-26 Pure White down the middle and masked for a double stripe. Finished with Tamiya TS-15 Blue and TS-51 Racing Blue. Applied the no. 5 meatball decals though the white scallops cracked on me so that was eliminated. Painted details and covered with Tamiya semi-glass clear. Noticed that this clear seems to make the shut lines bleed resulting in a washed out look. Maybe a day of curing isn't enough time. Will fill with some washed-out black paint.









Good outcome.

Dan

[Beast Lee]

That looks great Dan...

[chrisguyw]

Done!

Painted details and covered with Tamiya semi-glass clear. Noticed that this clear seems to make the shut lines bleed resulting in a washed out look. Maybe a day of curing isn't enough time. Will fill with some washed-out black paint.

Dan

Great job Dan .........A day of curing is not enough, not for the base coat or for the decals. 2/3 days is what I normally allow for decals to fully dry, especially larger ones like the numbers/roundels. If there is any moisture under the decal, it will sometimes react with the top coat, causing lifting/bubbles.

As for the Tamiya clear........all Tamiya clear coats are relatively "hot" and will dissolve the top layer of paint underneath, especially if applied too thick. The edges of shutlines typically have the least amount of paint on them (the paint runs away from the "Hard" edges), and , either overcoating too quickly, or, applying too heavy a coat will result in the paint "washing out".

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS If you have not tried it,...Tamiya panel line ink is great !!.......once tried, you will never use thinned black paint again.