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Chaparral 2E
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Interesting build, Dan. The file looks fairly reasonable, although maybe a bit thick. But some are like that.....
I have been considering using this as a base for a 2G file.
Slot.it glass will probably be pretty close, I would think, unless you changed the file when you printed it.
All you folks doing decals are really making me think I should try......
Show the chassis, too.....those builds are also interesting. Pretty soon you will have a full CanAm grid too.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 1 -
Yes this is a thick print. I took the Dremel to it after it was printed out. I wish the 3D software I am using had a digital dremel tool so this could be done in the software. Sure would be a nice tool
Re Glass. Found some on ebay, but with crazy shipping it was a non starter. I do vacuum form most of the glass I need, and this chaparral print had the glass molded in. So I sliced it off and saved it as a glass file. I am working on about 5 cars right now. Once they are done I will pull out the vacuum former and do the glass for all of the project cars that need it.
Cheers
DanLast edited by Barc 1; March 18, 2021, 12:32 PM.Cheers
Dan
G.P Alberta👍 1Comment
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Meshmixer allows you to thin some models. You can also make a copy and "subtract" it from the original which can help.
Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations👍 1Comment
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I find when I try the subtract things on a complex model I am taxing the heck out of my computer. Sometimes it just fails and crashes. Not sure why some models appear worse then others. I imagine the mathematical operations going on behind the scenes are large and intense.Cheers
Dan
G.P AlbertaComment
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