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  • Building my first slot car kit - newbie questions!

    Due to the COVID lockdown.....I figured I would try my hand at building and detailing a slot car kit. I purchased the PCS Tyrrell P34 six wheeler from Pendle Slots in the UK. I picked this kit since there is an option to order a "Complete Kit" that comes with the body parts, chassis, motor and pod, and all the wheels, tires, fasteners etc. Perfect for a beginner! Its a very nice kit as shown in the photo......mind you its more expensive than a finished slot car but we are all looking for things to keep us occupied during these lockdown days.....so what the heck.

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    I have test fit and assembled the body and chassis and run the car on my home track and tweaked the fit, and I am satisfied that the body and chassis and parts are assembled correctly, and I am ready for disassembly and final painting and detailing.

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    Here are my questions so far into this first time project:

    1) The body is resin. Do I need to do any the special prep before painting? I was going to wash the body with soap/water, sand and then wipe down with a tack cloth and then prime and paint. I am using Tamiya plastic primer and paints.

    2) Same questions for the chassis. Its 3d printed plastic. Any special prep before painting?

    3) I will spray paint the metal wheels, but I am worried about the paint clogging or seizing the tiny set screws in the wheels. What do you do to protect the set screws when spray painting the wheels?

    4) Is there any trick to gluing in the wheel inserts? The rear wheels are very deep and I think I will have to play with the rear wheel insert to get the depth correct for the scale. Do you just use a slow setting glue on the inserts and pull and push them to the desired depth?

    5) The driver figure is a very thin, clear plastic. Maybe a bit flimsier than I was hoping. Any tips on how to add some rigidity or strength to the clear plastic driver figure? I tried to get him to do some weight training but he is not interested.....haha

    6) Any other tips and suggestions for getting the build and painting and detailing right?

    Thanks very much, RvE

  • #2
    Hey that classic looks good as does the track it's on. Good job that it runs well too. I remember when they unveiled the P34 and the March's.

    Folks will chime in here no doubt, lot of accomplished talent on here.
    Cleaning the resin parts..
    A friend who made notable resin bodies and aircraft components, and another who had a vast model railroading kit line, steered me to a simple foolproof cleaning...
    plus, I've made a lot of stuff of my own..as far as cleaning before paint the sure thing was a bit of a soak in water with some 'Comet' cleanser and a good scrubbing in that with a toothbrush. Really good rinse. Keep your hands clean as you work on it and handle it. When you're done fussing with it and there's nothing left to do but paint, wash it again, comet, dawn,...rinse it well and paint it tomorrow.
    I have never ever had the slightest hint of a fish eye in a paint job on a resin model, whether Scalecoat, sprays, Tamiya.
    With Tamiya, which is awesome, if you sand, go way way up in fine grit, the slightest scratches can show thru a very light coat of it, though you can build up a great finish with many light coats, it works great that way, and you'll be able to see when you achieve the greatest finish.

    looking forward to seeing it finished!
    Cheers,
    Paul

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by RvE View Post
      Due to the COVID lockdown.....I figured I would try my hand at building and detailing a slot car kit. I purchased the PCS Tyrrell P34 six wheeler from Pendle Slots in the UK. I picked this kit since there is an option to order a "Complete Kit" that comes with the body parts, chassis, motor and pod, and all the wheels, tires, fasteners etc. Perfect for a beginner! Its a very nice kit as shown in the photo......mind you its more expensive than a finished slot car but we are all looking for things to keep us occupied during these lockdown days.....so what the heck.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6666 CR.jpg
Views:	546
Size:	912.8 KB
ID:	75849

      I have test fit and assembled the body and chassis and run the car on my home track and tweaked the fit, and I am satisfied that the body and chassis and parts are assembled correctly, and I am ready for disassembly and final painting and detailing.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6725 CR sm.jpg
Views:	507
Size:	614.0 KB
ID:	75850

      Here are my questions so far into this first time project:

      1) The body is resin. Do I need to do any the special prep before painting? I was going to wash the body with soap/water, sand and then wipe down with a tack cloth and then prime and paint. I am using Tamiya plastic primer and paints.

      2) Same questions for the chassis. Its 3d printed plastic. Any special prep before painting?

      3) I will spray paint the metal wheels, but I am worried about the paint clogging or seizing the tiny set screws in the wheels. What do you do to protect the set screws when spray painting the wheels?

      4) Is there any trick to gluing in the wheel inserts? The rear wheels are very deep and I think I will have to play with the rear wheel insert to get the depth correct for the scale. Do you just use a slow setting glue on the inserts and pull and push them to the desired depth?

      5) The driver figure is a very thin, clear plastic. Maybe a bit flimsier than I was hoping. Any tips on how to add some rigidity or strength to the clear plastic driver figure? I tried to get him to do some weight training but he is not interested.....haha

      6) Any other tips and suggestions for getting the build and painting and detailing right?

      Thanks very much, RvE
      Ive built a lot of resin kits over the years so I thought I would chime in.

      1 - I wash resin bodies with Luke warm water with washing up liquid. I scrub with a toothbrush. After that I sometimes wipe down with a wax & grease remover. I don't always do that though. Some people recommend Westleys tire white cleaner but Ive never used it so cant comment. I also lighltly rub down with 1500 wet & dry if the body is shiny, just to lightly scuff it.

      2 - Same as above.

      3 - Put a bit of masking tape over the set screws if worried. I use Tamiya masking tape

      4 - I use super glue. I glue in a small bit of styrene tube cut to length behind the wheel to set the backset of the insert.

      5 - Cant help you on that. Immense Miniatures have the best drivers for F1.

      6 - Take your time & have fun. If you have any issues ask away.

      Comment


      • #4
        I don't have any advice that hasn't been said by FC47 and mopargreg, but I wanted to say that looks like a great project.
        Please show us this car when you get it finished

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks everyone. One other question..... do you file a flat spot on the axle to aid in securing the wheel via the set screws?

          I will post some pics when I have made some progress.... but I am taking my time to try and build it right.

          Comment


          • SlotCat
            SlotCat commented
            Editing a comment
            No flatspots, never had a problem racing, NSR, Slot.It, none use flatspots either. Kit is looking good, love these cars and had the AFX version as a child!

        • #6
          You could, but even on my most aggressive drag cars I rarely get a slip. .02€

          Comment


          • #7
            When cleaning bodies I wear nitrile gloves to avoid fingerprint oils on the surface. Same type I use when working on my 1:1 car to keep its grease off me.

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by RvE View Post
              ...5) The driver figure is a very thin, clear plastic. Maybe a bit flimsier than I was hoping. Any tips on how to add some rigidity or strength to the clear plastic driver figure? I tried to get him to do some weight training but he is not interested.....haha...
              You could mix some 2-part epoxy resin and put a light coat on the inside

              Comment


              • RvE
                RvE commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks dingleberry.....I did just that .....mixed up some 5 min epoxy glue and spread it on the underside of the driver figure. Worked great!

              • SlotCat
                SlotCat commented
                Editing a comment
                E6000 inside would work too, very strong, permanent and somewhat flexible.
                http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/

            • #9
              I used to grind flat spots on the axles of my 1/24th scale commercial raceway cars, but that has not been necessary with my 1/32nd cars. I recommend getting a good wrench, your best bet would be one with a slipper clutch such as the ones that Slot.it or Scaleauto sell. Cheap L hex wrenches quickly round off and can damage the socket in the set screw when they do. Good inexpensive wrenches are sold by Wera and Wiha.

              Comment


              • SlotCat
                SlotCat commented
                Editing a comment
                Agreed, 1/24 scale yes, 1/32 scale no. I like Wera drivers and then Wiha.

            • #10
              The resin caster may provide the best advice as they know the material they used.
              I include this note with resin items I provide:


              "Use rubbing alcohol or thinner to wipe off your parts before you sand and prime.

              Do not use soap and water as it may reactivate the polyurethane resin.

              Lacquer primer works best on resin – wear a dust mask when sanding."



              Good luck on the build, looks like it will be an interesting slot when it is done!


              NYMODIFIEDS.COM

              Comment


              • #11
                I am slowly making progress on this kit. The wheels and inserts are competed and painted, and the chassis is painted, wired and completed. I could not resist.....screwed on the body and ran some laps. Its a very smooth running car. I also finished painting the driver figure and helmet. The driver body is a single vacuum formed, thin sheet, so its quite tricky to paint. I struggled to get a realistic look to the open face helmet, so I gave up and filled in the facial features with filler and painted the "face shield" black. I am happy with how the driver turned out.....but I wont tell you how many hours I spent on him. I am about to start the critical stage of paining the two colour body. I wont rush it, and try for a blemish free paint job with crisp paint lines! Here are some photos to show the progress. Cheers RvE

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                • #12
                  Boy does that look SHARP...nice build so far!!!
                  TOM...HOME RACING GOO GOO!!!

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    Looking good!

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      I've been making some steady progress. I finally got the 2 colour coats applied. I painted the white upper surface and then masked for the blue. The masking was very tricky due to the tight curves and having to leave the proper amount of white area to accommodate the "First National" decals. It took me three tries to get the mask edge to the correct shape. Due to the tight curves, I use 1/6" vinyl pinstriping as my mask edge and then apply masking tape to the pinstripe edge. I added a photo below to show how I made it all fit.

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                      I am happy with how the paint work turned out....nice clean and crisp edge. Now onto the decal and final clear coat. Enjoy the pics, Cheers RvE

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        "Mr Peterson, your car is ready".......I applied all the decals (4 hours!!!) and I am letting everything dry thoroughly and then I will clear coat it and install the driver figure. The rear tires need more sanding and I will apply the tire markings. Overall, I am very happy with how this model turned out, and I think PCS has really captured the shape and stanch of this car very accurately. The kit is very complete and very high quality. Cheers RvE

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