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Post repair ideas for motor pod chassis?

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  • Post repair ideas for motor pod chassis?

    I have an old GB-Track Chevron with the separate motor pod. The rear post that hold in the motor pod has snapped off. I’m sure this must have happened to someone else, any ideas for a strong repair? I’m not sure if just glueing it will last. I’m open to all ideas. Thanks.
    Last edited by Michael Squier; December 29, 2020, 03:09 PM.

  • #2
    I think you might have a Slot.It Chaparral? Fly didn't make a Chaparral.
    ​​​​​​ Pictures would be helpful since fixing a body post vs the pod are different things. Best way to fix a pod is to replace with a new one, but you can glue them if desired (doesn't work well as you have intuited).
    Come Race at The Trace!
    Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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    • #3
      Chappyman, your right, not sure why I thought it was a Fly. It’s an old GB-Track version of slot it car. Here is the picture. Are new chassis available?
      ok, now I’m really embarrassed. It’s not even a Chaparell, it’s the Chevron! Either way, it’s broken.
      Last edited by Michael Squier; December 29, 2020, 03:09 PM.

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      • ZackM
        ZackM commented
        Editing a comment
        Looks like you should be able to just bond it back together? Good super glue is suprisingly good on these plastic chassis!

        BTW, that is GB-track or Fly Chevron

        Zack

    • #4
      A great solution for those podded Fly chassiss is to rough up the contact area at the front of the pod and epoxy the pod in place, creating a one piece chassis / pod. JB Weld works well.

      Peter
      PetesLightKits

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      • Michael Squier
        Michael Squier commented
        Editing a comment
        I was thinking that might be the way to go. Once that’s done, no way to put back or remove magnet. Would you suggest I just put some weight in the hole and seal it up? I plan to run no magnet anyway.

      • dungeonracer
        dungeonracer commented
        Editing a comment
        I'm with Pete, glue the pod to the chassis.
        Shoo-Goo or Goop work well also.
        As for filling the magnet "hole" with lead, I suggest cutting off said "hole" (not the triangular front though). This way you have a flat area for placing weight.

      • PetesLightKits
        PetesLightKits commented
        Editing a comment
        If you have a bench vise with a flat area on it you can use the built in magnet and any other loose magnets that you have to hold things together while the epoxy cures. Then, after everything is cured, you can remove the magnet and plastic "hole".

    • #5
      It looks like CG Slotcars makes a 3D printed chassis for that.

      https://www.shapeways.com/product/HK...ot-car-chassis

      Let us know how things work out, what ever you end up doing.
      Why doesn't my car run like that?

      Scott

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      • #6
        I agree.....for the Chevrons, they work really well if you just glue the pod to the chassis plate, making a one-piece chassis. I have a couple that are glued like that and they are pretty quick. Just be careful when attaching it that the pod is straight and you should be good to go.
        Come Race at The Trace!
        Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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        • #7
          Hello Michael, as mentioned above, gluing in the pod on all Fly cars is a very good idea.........our local area clubs' run Fly cars a lot, and among the 40/50 guys that run them all the quick guys have the pods glued in.

          I suspect that you do not have a chassis jig,..which is a great tool for aligning the pod into the chassis plate, but, in a pinch you can use a bit of graph paper. Install bushings and an axle into the pod, and an axle in the front of the chassis, and use graph paper to make sure the axles are as parallel as you can get them .

          As well, if you have any rubberized CA, (black) use that, as regular clear CA has little shear strength., and is quite thin........if not, ShooGoo/E6000 etc. would be my choice.

          Let us know how you make out.

          Cheers
          Chris Walker

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          • #8
            Thanks for the ideas. I glued it down using some Weld Wood contact cement, it’s very strong and I think will hold up well. Now it’s time for some tires, one is ok the other is a rock. I’m going to get the Paul Gage urethane tires, I need them for some scalectrix trans am cars too.

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            • #9
              I like the ideas about the vice and magnets, and using graph paper with the axles to align things. Those are new to me.
              As far as adhesives go, I've always gone with JB Weld, but may have to try the Shoe Goo as it seems to get a thumbs up here on the forum.
              Great ideas. Thanks!

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              • #10
                E6000 is another adhesive similar to Shoe Goo but thinner and sometimes easier to work with neatly. Rubberized CA is sold by SCC for glueing tires to wheels.

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                • #11
                  E6000 works well.. And another thumbs up to just gluing the pod to the chassis.
                  There are also some good 3D printed chassis out there.

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                  • #12
                    Finally got my new tires, Paul Gage urathane tires, and set up a track to do some testing on. So far it works. The glued pod hasn’t fallen off. I took out the magnet and on my Scalextric sport track it’s a bit like an ice racer. Compared to Carrera the plastic they used is a bit slick. I might put the magnet back in but shim it up so it’s not so strong. A bit a tire sanding might help too.

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                    • #13
                      Yes, truing and polishing the tires will help. My Chevron with the glued pod has been raced for a few years now....it's pretty durable.
                      Come Race at The Trace!
                      Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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