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  • Controller selection help

    Picked up an analog Carrera set recently.

    Want to replace the factory “plunger style” analog Carrera controllers with a trigger style. Looking at the Professor Motor 35-ohm model reviewed here – I see there is an electronic model (Carrera Home Set) for a little more.

    I’m a part time rug racer – so I don’t want anything to elaborate. Track is small and flat – cars will mostly be Slot.it at this point.

    I think the analog Carrera controllers are around 60 ohms – and from what I’ve read might be a bit high anyway for the Slot.it motors and 35 ohms may be better suited to them.

    Does the PM electronic controller automatically adjust to each car it sees on the track (i.e. how does it work)? What is the advantage of going electronic?

  • #2
    I have not used the 35 ohm controllers and I’m sure they work great but I would recommend the electronic controllers because there operating principal is opposite of the resistor type
    The resistance in the 35 ohm is a constant so different cars will run with different results, some will run better and smoother while others might be touchy and sensitive on a smaller track
    The electronic controllers will operate more consistently with a wide variety of different cars because they apply the voltage to the track in a more linear and smoother fashion which would be more desirable on a shorter track
    I had 35 ohm controllers on my small oval and they worked just fine but have since changed to PM electronic controllers and everyone noticed a difference in drivability no matter what type of car you are driving
    I would highly recommend the electronic controllers over a resistor controller for slotit on your track
    Dave

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    • #3
      Agree with above.

      But, ANYTHING will be an upgrade over what you have.

      Being a "rug racer" part time, the 35 OHM would be a low cost sweet spot for you. I have two and like them very much.

      But he is right. if you want REAL improvement, spring for the electronic
      -Harry

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      • #4
        PM also offers a 45 ohm controller with the Carrera home set plugs. Perhaps a 45 ohm controller might be more to your liking as far as being closer to the stock Carrera controller.
        BRS Hobbies - Online shopping for slot cars in all scales, RC crawlers & more!

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        • #5
          If possible get the PM electronic controllers with Carrera plugs on them. I bought 2 over 12 years ago with Scalextric's plugs and still use them with my routed tracks - controllers and adjustable power supply plug into the power base under the track and jumper wires connect to the power rails (copper tape in my case). They work great and have been a good investment.

          Also hope you can get your track off the rug. Any sort of table will be a huge improvement. A hollow core door on saw horses, something that folds down from the wall, etc. When I remember rug racing it makes my knees hurt.

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          • #6
            I agree on the PM electronic, very smooth with about any car
            the 35 ohm is good, but you can notice the difference right away between the 2

            I should get another electronic next month to replace the lone 35 I have left

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            • #7
              Thanks to everyone for the help - picked up an electric.

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              • #8
                Does an electronic controller allow me to run HO through to 1/24 with wild to mild motors using the adjustment features so that the 'gas petal' has a proportional feel?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by GoldGuy View Post
                  Does an electronic controller allow me to run HO through to 1/24 with wild to mild motors using the adjustment features so that the 'gas petal' has a proportional feel?
                  So far I've run pretty much everything except HO and have no issues. Good proportional control
                  I do not own any HO

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                  • #10
                    There are a couple of factors that make it difficult to design an electronic controller that would be perfect for both 1/32nd and HO cars. One factor would be the differences in track voltage. 1/32nd tracks where cars without traction magnets are run are usually at 10 volts. 1/32nd tracks where cars with traction magnets are used are usually run at 12-14 volts. HO tracks are usually run at 18-20 volts, although gravity cars are run at 12 volts for the most part. Another factor is the brake adjustment that the controller has. 1/32nd controllers usually have a 25 ohm potentiometer in the brake circuit. An HO controller would have a much higher value potentiometer, perhaps 100 to 200 ohms. Many HO cars are best run with no brakes and high performance cars need coast, in which case the voltage is not zero when the trigger is in the off position.
                    Most of the time you would be better off using a controller that is made for a specific scale. There may be a controller that has enough adjustability to work well with both scales, but off hand there is none that I could recommend.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks guys, that's helpful. I'm into 1/43 and 1/32 on a Ninco short tack oval, low voltage and no mags. I'll probably concentrate on the smaller scale since I sold my house (with a big shop) and am in a condo now. It's an old age thing !!!!

                      So, scraped the road course because of the size restraints and an going for 'in close action' with scratch built midget modified. With what's going on outside it's time to get setup again.

                      Next questions ...................

                      **** Any idea of the ohm range for a PM TR 2210 electronic controller? PMTR2119 Sport Semipro controller for Ninco & Scalextric Sport [PMTR2119] - $79.99 : Electric Dreams, New and Vintage Slot Cars, New and Vintage Slot Cars My resistor types are 25 and 35 ohms. I'm looking in the range of 15 to 35.

                      *** I regulated my voltage and can do it before or after the controller. Any advice on doing that with an electric one?
                      Last edited by GoldGuy; April 13, 2020, 01:16 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Did you mean a 2110 PM controller?
                        With a resistor the current that a car's motor draws goes through the resistor. Since the voltage drop of a resistor is proportional to the ohm value and the current the same controller will not work the same with motors that draw different amounts of current. An electronic controller that uses a transistor does not have an ohm value as such. The voltage output of the transistor is controlled by a voltage divider that can consist of a chain of small resistors connected to a wiper pad or a potentiometer. The current drawn by the car's motor goes through the transistor, not the resistors or the potentiometer, that is why an electronic controller works well with any sort of motor. With electronic controllers the bigger concern is the track voltage.
                        The 2110 includes adjustable sensitivity and brakes. What the sensitivity adjustment actually does is control the voltage that you get at the very beginning of the trigger pull. Once you set the sensitivity you will probably use the same setting for all of your cars. Be aware that electronic controllers are sensitive to track polarity, that is because a transistor can only conduct in one direction. Set type tracks are all negative polarity, except for Policar. Club tracks are almost always positive polarity. Make sure that you order the correct polarity controller unless you want to rewire your track. The 2119 controller is made for a negative polarity track and it has a sensitivity adjustment, but no brake adjustment. Electronic controllers often do not work with a track that does not have brake connections.
                        If you expect that you might hold formal races on your track it would be best to wire it for positive polarity and have driver's stations with screw post connections.

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                        • #13
                          Good stuff, thanks again.

                          It was easy waaaaay back in the beginning of slot car racing. You just went to a commercial race track as they had all the answers and the proper components to make it all work painlessly.

                          Right, the 2110. I know about the polarity issue and why. I can change my track wiring accordingly. Actually it's cheaper to buy the 2119 and add the brake pot if I stay negative.

                          I ordered some resistors to change and test the controllers I have. The electronic ones seem to be the way to go using a voltage drop, more versatile without a solder job. My problem arose because of the gearing on the smaller scales with the same motors. Since voltage is RPM, I added voltage regulators. It works, but not perfect as the trigger action is still not correct. I was thinking of rewinding the motors as a solution as well and dropping the KV.



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                          • #14
                            Ordered the 2119s. Problems solved!!!

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