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*GROAN* The paint gods frown on me today

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  • *GROAN* The paint gods frown on me today

    Normally keeping the same brand paints keep reactions from happening.
    This time I used all krylon, from primer on to the clear I sprayed this morning

    Next time instead of being lazy I'll use all testors paints, never an issue with them

    Time for a Castrol bath
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  • #2
    I don't know much about Krylon, as all I ever used was a bright red for an old Lionel train. It was just stripped and painted and set on shelf. One of the guys at the local track use K clear and i tried it. I think it is an enamel, but I know it was hot, hot, hot. It blistered the lacquer I put it over. I couldn't believe that it was hotter than lacquer. After that, I stuck to Testors or Tamiya clear. The last year or two I have also used Duplicolor clear lacquer, with the model spray lacquers and have not had issues. That K clear is some hot paint.
    Matt B
    So. In
    Crashers

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    • #3
      Painting is always somewhat risky, I have had problems with combinations that worked well for me in the past. Usually I dummy up a new combination of paints on something expendable, like a jewel case. Recently I tried putting some Duplicolor over the Testors gray primer that I usually use, that had worked for me years ago, so I did not do a test. The Duplicolor seemed to go on OK, but it was not glossy when it dried and a few spots did not want to cover. I tried another light coat with the same result. I was not worried about the dull finish because I knew that it would be glossy after I put on a coat of clear. I still had the same spots that would not cover, so I did another light coat which caused everything to blister. Ouch! I had to strip everything off and use Duplicolor primer. The color coat was flat but otherwise was OK. After a couple of coats of Testors clear the body looked great. I used the Duplicolor because none of the hobby paints had the right color. Automotive paints do tend to be hot. If you put an automotive clear over decals they would be likely to crinkle up. I am still not certain why you can have problems with a combination that worked well many times. I do know that you should not spray solvent based paint when it is humid. With some paints you have to use many light coats with drying time in between. With other paints you can get a rough finish if the coats are too light. The distance between the nozzle and the surface may be more critical than you would expect.

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      • mattb
        mattb commented
        Editing a comment
        Rich, I like the white colored Duplicolor lacquer primer and it is all I use now and have had no issues, so far, with the model lacquers of the Duplicolor lacquers. To be clear the Duplicolor lacquers I use are the generic black, white and red, not metallics and specific touch up colors. I've had good luck with these paints, but who knows what will happen next time.

    • #4
      Interesting, i have had a rough finish a time or two and no idea why.

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      • #5
        Pretty much looks like my results with Krylon clear.

        Randy

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        • #6
          I have often used Krylon Crystal Clear with good results.
          If you spray from too far away much of the solvent may evaporate before the spray reaches the surface and that is one possibly cause of a rough surface. Rattle cans may be more likely to give inconsistent results because of their nozzles and because the pressure may change as the room temperature varies. You tend to get better control if you use an air brush.

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          • #7
            Painting has always been my worst subject, and of late, because of nasty experiences with clear coats, I have given up on any attempt at artistic painting.

            What I have found works is the Krylon line of rattle-can paints for plastic. As advertised it goes on plastic models without a primer. And it is relatively easy to build up a few coats to a glossy finish without runs and drips. That tolerance for my ham-handed painting skills is something I have learned to expect from Krylon brand spray paints, and happily pay for.

            Rather than use traditional water-slide decals I have been using the modern peel-and-stick vinyl stripes, meatballs and numbers. Nothing more fancy. They look fine and stand up to abuse. No gloss coat required.

            The end result isn't so very shabby. The trick is to go fast enough that nobody gets a good look at it.

            Ed Bianchi

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            Last edited by HO RacePro; October 25, 2020, 04:08 PM.

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            • #8
              William, a couple of things...

              First, about re-coating- those wrinkles mean the last layer sprayed was "hotter" (more volatile), than what it landed on. The layer beneath was not hard enough (cured enough), to allow the layer on top to settle and level, as well as cure. Anytime you use more than one kind of paint, extra cure time is essential. And by the way, Krylon is full sized paint. The particles of pigment are hundreds of times larger than model paint, and the medium that carries it when sprayed is thicker. I don't ever recommend using 1:1 paint on something 32 times smaller. Keep in mind that spray paint never fully cures, just like glass is never really a solid. You just give it enough time to cure enough that it doesn't fall victim to the next layer you put on it.
              Also, the layer underneath on that car was too thick- let the coats cure a longer time, or recoat really soon. Its on the instructions from the better spray paint outfits.

              And do not cover enamel with lacquer or the reverse. Stick with one kind of spray always.

              Second, that little platform you are using is also still curing. The fumes from the "gassing out" process interfere with the cure of whatever is on top of it. Start using a wire stand of some sort (I recommend the Tamiya paint stand), and you will feel like an expert the first time.

              Good luck!

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              • #9
                I've been spraying paint for 50 years, lacquer and urethane the last 30 years and enamels before that. , I know lacquer dries from the bottom all the way thru the top. It fully cures in a short time. Enamel does not cure fully in a reasonable time unless it has a hardener added to it. Without hardener it dries with a hard outer shell and is soft below that outer shell. The chemical properties of enamel also vary from top to bottom as it cures.

                Acrylics, I don't know about. I think they are safe in any combination. I think.

                You can spray enamel over lacquer successfully. You may still have issues with the really hot enamel like the Krylon clear mentioned above. It is best to stick with the same type of paint all the way thru, as Way says above. That stops 90% of the problems you can have.

                I have no issues with standard black, white, red or clear Duplicolor lacquer auto paint, but prefer model paint for any other color. I still say stick with lacquer let it dry a bit, I sometimes clear coat in 20 minutes or so.

                You want to be really safe use Future/Pledge acrylic for a clear finish or to add gloss. I have had decal issues once or twice, but 99% of the time Future works over everything with no problems.
                Matt B
                So. In
                Crashers

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                • #10
                  I need to set the record straight. Tonite a guy asked me about the paint I use and I got some cans together to take a picture. I realized I said I use Duplicolor generic white and black lacquer. Turns out it is Rustoleum and it is on the shelf next to the duplicolor primer I guy. Sorry for the wrong info.
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                  Matt B
                  So. In
                  Crashers

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