NSR motors

[mattb]

You guys have all used and bought lots of 1/32 cars and motors, I haven't. So I need some advice.

In looking at motor options for the guys I build cars for, I thought I would try a couple these NSR motors that are 21K. I got 3 and the first one wasn't very fast and I couldn't get it up to speed with gear changes. After maybe 20-30 laps of testing it finally just quit. I pulled out motor #2 and it ran lap times close to the 25-28 K motors I have been using. Is this a common and should I stay away from NSR motors. I really haven't had issues with other brand name motors. Was this was just a fluke? Oh yeah, the motor spins easily.

I advised the retailer, but haven't heard anything from them.

[chrisguyw]

Hi Matt,..........You likely just got a bad one, .......there are zero reasons to avoid NSR motors.

You may try flushing out the "bad" one, running it under water for a minute or two.........junk can get into the comm segment slots and cause issues. If this does not work, it is best to return the motor, as the endbell and brush arrangement, make them finnicky to open/repair/close.

It also could very well be a broken wire on one of the poles, or, a bad/broken joint on one of the comm tabs.........again, either way, it is just easier to return the motor.

Just out of interest, what have you geared the cars at, and what rear tire dia. are you running ??

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Kevan]

I've had one or two SlotIt S-can motors fail, a few Team Slot FK180 motors fail but touch wood never an NSR and they're the motor manufacturer I use mostly.

[RobNC]

We race several classes of NSR cars in our club. Stock motors are required. I have used several of the King 21.4k motors that you referenced and generally they are good motors. I have had at least one though that had a vibration issue. After a breaking in, many will tach 23k or better at 12v. These are the stock motors in the new NSR Formula cars which we run as a class. I was worried about the high torque of this motor in these cars, but it seems to work very well in an inline configuration geared at 10-27. I actually like it better inline than in an angle winder application that the GT cars have that we run. We also use the short can NSR motors in two classes. I think the older short cans are better motors. I must reserve judgement on the new EVO short cans as I have only tried a couple and they were slow.

I did receive a motor from a vendor that was a different brand that had a very bad vibration and the rpm was much lower than it was supposed to be. Contacted them and the motor was replaced. I understand that the motors are lower end styles, but we do expect them to be usable.

[War Eagle River]

Sometimes you get a bad one, simple as that. Bought a NSR Baby King, it was very strong. Tached it at 22k. Called the dealer, they said to pull back the wrapper and see what is printed on the can. It was stamped 21.5k. So obviously the motor had the wrong wrapper on it. Not very often, but have had motors ‘fail’ over the years. One that fails quickly out of the package is usually just that, bad. Return it to the dealer, they should replace it.

[mattb]

I wanted the higher torque because we are running brass chassis 1/24 cars. I'll try cleaning the comm thru the can openings. If it had one broken arm winding, shouldn't it still run if you give it a start? If it doesn't run, I will send it back, but it always seems stupid t me to spend more in postage than what an item costs. It was one of the reputable dealers that I know and have bought a lot from, so maybe I'll hear something from them.

[RichD]

Having dust from the brushes short the commutator is a common problem with 1/32nd motors. The problem is most likely to happen when the motor is new and the brushes are not fully broken in. If you were to run the motor using a power supply with an amp meter you would measure a much higher draw than normal. Often a shot or two of spray contact cleaner will clear out the slots in the commutator and restore performance. If that fails you could take the motor apart and manually clear the slots. I have never had a 1/32nd motor with an open winding, if that were the case the most likely spot would be where the wire connects to the commutator.

[Mitch58]

All manufacturers will occasionally produce a dud, it's part of mass production.

Of all the motors I've used I find that NSR has the smoothest power band spread nicely between stop and wide open making the cars very drivable. I really like the C130 can shark motors for that reason.

[Rooster]

Hard to beat NSR motors. The NSR 3004 Shark 20,000 RPM Universal Motor 20K is the motor I’d pick for home racing if I had to pick one. There are certainly other quality motors out there though, and I don’t have to just pick one.

[mattb]

I tried to look at the brushes and as much as I can tell they are in place. I wired it and spun the arm, but it wouldn't run. I'll try some wd 40 sprayed into the comm, just in case a short on the comm is the issue, but I doubt that will make any difference. I can take it apart, but I don't know what else could be checked and they are not the easiest motors to take apart.

[War Eagle River]

I tried to look at the brushes and as much as I can tell they are in place. I wired it and spun the arm, but it wouldn't run. I'll try some wd 40 sprayed into the comm, just in case a short on the comm is the issue, but I doubt that will make any difference. I can take it apart, but I don't know what else could be checked and they are not the easiest motors to take apart.

WD40? Try some CRC QD.

[mattb]

Always used WD 40 to clean a comm. Today's mail included a brand new motor from Professor Motor to replace the bad one. I know Oliver is extremely busy, but he took time to make this right with me.

[Kevan]

WD40? Try some CRC QD.

...or EasyStart

[RichD]

Do not use WD40, that contains oil. Getting oil on the commutator makes it more likely that the dust will stick in the slots. That is why I never recommend using "comm drops". CRC QD is the thing to use, it can be found in hardware, home improvement and auto parts stores. The dust in the commutator slots is hard to see, even if you take the motor apart. With the motor apart resistance readings across all three commutator segments would tell the tale.

[Giddyup]

Hi Matt,..........You likely just got a bad one, .......there are zero reasons to avoid NSR motors.

You may try flushing out the "bad" one, running it under water for a minute or two.........junk can get into the comm segment slots and cause issues. If this does not work, it is best to return the motor, as the endbell and brush arrangement, make them finnicky to open/repair/close.

It also could very well be a broken wire on one of the poles, or, a bad/broken joint on one of the comm tabs.........again, either way, it is just easier to return the motor.

Just out of interest, what have you geared the cars at, and what rear tire dia. are you running ??

Cheers
Chris Walker

100% agree with Chris, likely just a bad one. Easiest to try and return it.

Having chatted with NSR about their motors, they take a lot of pride over them and actually test them before they ship out...so maybe this one slipped by in the 100’s/1000’s of motors they test?

Incidentally, NSR provided 20k Shark motors as part of sponsoring our Western Canada Tourist Trophy enduro event last year. We live-streamed teaching those handout motors (14 of them) which had been labeled and tagged with a tamper proof seal before teams “drafted” their motor. All the motors RPM were remarkably VERY close in their RPM output and even their sound too. I dare say the most consistent we’ve ever seen from any of the manufacturers we’ve tested.

[docdoom]

yes yes I have been saying for years nsr 20k motor would be a great spec motor for any proxy race