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Our local club has a GT class using stock s-can 18k rpm motors. I bought a Scalextric Ford GT knowing it had the FF can motor. Also, the stock FF motor is too hot for our class. So, even though I am still working during this pandemic, our club isn't racing so that gives us time to work on cars.
I opened up this car and started thinking about how I could get it legal for our class. Sidewinder is just out of the question because of the buttresses on each side of the read end, so I was going to have to go with inline, but still would need to remove a lot of interior plastic. This conversion is built on the lessons learned when I converted a Fly Panoz Esperante GT from front motor to sidewinder configuration. For that conversion I just cut a hole in the chassis and hot glued the motor in place. For this conversion I wanted to use my 3D printer to come up with a more elegant solution. So I designed a simple s-can pod/bracket.
At the same time I cleared all the original motor mount bits from the chassis.
Test fit with the motor mounted in the bracket and replacement rear end using Slot.it parts. I initially wanted to cut a hole in the chassis to get the bottom of the motor flush with the bottom of the chassis but during test fitting I noticed that the motor shaft was already slightly below the rear axle, and I didn't want to switch to an offset crown gear so I left the chassis as is.
A test fit showing that I had to cut away quite a bit of interior but the rear window helped to hide some of that fact. I might cover that up with some black card stock.
The reassembled chassis. I went ahead and rewired the lights so they stay on during deslots. I also JB Welded in my own 3D printed guide adapter so I can use a Slot.it or similar style guide. I'll clean up the excess JB Weld once it cures. And, yes the rear tires will need to be trued down to a suitable diameter. Then use the original rear wheels to make inserts.
Peter
I opened up this car and started thinking about how I could get it legal for our class. Sidewinder is just out of the question because of the buttresses on each side of the read end, so I was going to have to go with inline, but still would need to remove a lot of interior plastic. This conversion is built on the lessons learned when I converted a Fly Panoz Esperante GT from front motor to sidewinder configuration. For that conversion I just cut a hole in the chassis and hot glued the motor in place. For this conversion I wanted to use my 3D printer to come up with a more elegant solution. So I designed a simple s-can pod/bracket.
At the same time I cleared all the original motor mount bits from the chassis.
Test fit with the motor mounted in the bracket and replacement rear end using Slot.it parts. I initially wanted to cut a hole in the chassis to get the bottom of the motor flush with the bottom of the chassis but during test fitting I noticed that the motor shaft was already slightly below the rear axle, and I didn't want to switch to an offset crown gear so I left the chassis as is.
A test fit showing that I had to cut away quite a bit of interior but the rear window helped to hide some of that fact. I might cover that up with some black card stock.
The reassembled chassis. I went ahead and rewired the lights so they stay on during deslots. I also JB Welded in my own 3D printed guide adapter so I can use a Slot.it or similar style guide. I'll clean up the excess JB Weld once it cures. And, yes the rear tires will need to be trued down to a suitable diameter. Then use the original rear wheels to make inserts.
Peter
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