Help - how to remove body on Scalextric Peugeot 908 HDi?

[RvE]

I am trying to clean and lubricate my Scalextric Peugeot 908 HDi LMP1 car (model C3011). This car is very noisy and I am hoping some plastic gear lube helps.

Well, I am having a heck of a time removing the body, and dont want to break anything. Oddly, there are no quick answers on the internet to this question. How does the body come off?

I have all the screws removed and the body is somehow attached to the photo etched exhaust ahead of the rear wheel. See the red circled area in the pic. I have tried to gently pry the body off around the exhausts, but it does not seem to want to release. Whats the trick to getting this body off? Are there any tips for making this car run quieter? Most of the Reviews of this model did mention how noisy this car runs, so the noisy running gear seems common to most of these cars.


Thanks very much for your help. RvE

[docdoom]

should only be 6 mounting screws right? noise tail and two on the each side. you need to pry out slighty to clear the exuahst. if not it sound like there may of been some extra super glue from the factory assy of the car causing you some issues.

[Vision34]

I've had some that are glued in. In some corners. I had two scaly mustang's glued have patience and it will come apart.

[War Eagle River]

This is what I use for those pesky body screws. Pry bar, then if that doesn't work, a few good swings...and problem solved!

[Fathead59]

I think the BFH would work wonders on those pesky screws

[RvE]

Ok, Thanks - I will keep trying to work the body loose. It does feel like there is some glue in there. Hoping it does not come down to War Eagle solution!

Thanks RvE

[Kevan]

This is what I use for those pesky body screws. Pry bar, then if that doesn't work, a few good swings...and problem solved!

Looks like an auction job lot listing

[War Eagle River]

Could be. Just an image I snatched off the interweb as a joke response.

[RvE]

SUCCESS! As noted by HRW members, my problem was glue! It appears that during manufacturing, some glue had "leaked" from metal exhaust trim detail on the body down to the chassis and bonded the chassis and body at the exhaust location. I was able to get my Xacto blade between the body and chassis at the exhaust, and was able to cut through the glue to release the bond. Its then a simple case of prying the body open at the exhaust so that the body clears the exhaust pipe ends. For others struggling with this, here is a pic of the opened chassis showing how the exhaust detail is moulded onto the chassis. While this exhaust detail is very nice......it is surprising that this was not simply moulded onto the body instead of the chassis!

BTW - I cleaned and lubricated all the moving parts, and that helped with the running noise......but this is still a noisy car for some reason. Thanks for your help, RvE

[docdoom]

for the noise trying running in the gear train some. ak some tooth paste on the gears and run the car at low voltage with no load on the tires for 30min and then clean and re lube the gears.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Yep. toothpaste is a miracle worker for gears. I have been using the same tube of toothpaste on slot cars for 20 years. Works on metal gears as well as plastic. Model railroad guys have been using it for at least 60 years I know of.

[Wobble]

A few years ago I had a Scaley Audi R10 LMP that was noisy as it had a buzzy motor that was a bit loose in its cradle. I put masking tape on the bottom of the motor (between the motor and chassis fins) and glued the motor in and it was a lot quieter. I'm not sure which of those did the trick.

[SuperSlab]

for the noise trying running in the gear train some. ak some tooth paste on the gears and run the car at low voltage with no load on the tires for 30min and then clean and re lube the gears.

Does using toothpaste with flouride help reduce the wear on the gears in the long run?

[docdoom]

nope waist of money does nothing to improve the wear and tear on the gears. but if the car does end up getting a sweat tooth you are covered

[perrotoro]

for the noise trying running in the gear train some. ak some tooth paste on the gears and run the car at low voltage with no load on the tires for 30min and then clean and re lube the gears.

Question: Will any toothpaste do? How about toothpaste with a baking soda grit - even better?

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Following the KISS formula, I have always used the most plain Jane toothpaste I could find, and that is Colgate original, no additives at all. I run gears in (plastic, aluminum, or brass), in just a few minutes, and I leave a tiny bit on when I clean up. Over time the gears will become like silk. The normal oil will distribute the grit so there isn't extra wear, and I just leave it on.

[perrotoro]

Following the KISS formula, I have always used the most plain Jane toothpaste I could find, and that is Colgate original, no additives at all. I run gears in (plastic, aluminum, or brass), in just a few minutes, and I leave a tiny bit on when I clean up. Over time the gears will become like silk. The normal oil will distribute the grit so there isn't extra wear, and I just leave it on.

Ha - sorry I asked. The other meaning of KISS is keep it smart smart___. Following this principle, an extensive research of the America Dental Polish Regulation reveals that Colgate has minimal polish filament - no wonder it takes you a full few minutes. You should use Full Dental Amalgam Concentrate. Guarantees of 3-5-sec polish times are stated. $59.99 for two mL. Quit wasting so much time. Good racing bud! (smirk)

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I used Tamiya polishing compound for years, but ran out of the "coarse" stuff and never got around to getting more.