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Shortening a Pioneer chassis
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If you have a hobby shop around consider balsa wood strips instead of popsicle sticks. Balsa wood is very light weight, files easily to size, and accepts screws nicely after drilling a small pilot hole. I glue a few strips together to get the desired thickness (height) and use double sided foam tape to secure to the body.
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Roger that fathead59
Yeah, every car I do, I learn new tricks, so I think your advice is great.
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one32 , get all of the mistakes out on the Chevys , this way when you do your Fords they will be mistake free . And I am a Hot Rod fan , I do not have one particular brand of car maker that I like over the others . As long as it is fast and looks good .
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Fathead59,
The "shortening" method will surely work both ways. I have a couple chassis's set up to do just that. Stretch
I already have the brass cut for the first one. I'm gonna take Chrisguys advice and do the second one with styrene tube, and piano wire.
Chris says the chassis should flex a little bit. I thought just the opposite. It makes sense to have some " give" in the chassis now that I think about it. (still learning)
I have 2 resin 65 malibu chevelle's I got off 873chris on ebay a while back. I plan on using the bumpers, and grills off a diecast 65 malibu to give it a little shine .
I will post progress with photos very soon.
Here I am a Ford man, and building everything but Fords!!!!!!!!! Go figure
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Originally posted by one32 View Post
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I have a few resin bodies . And the way I plan on mounting them is with popsicle sticks epoxy to the bodies . I have brass inserts also .
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I am following this thread because I plan on doing basically the same thing , but I plan on stretching the chassis using strips of flat brass .
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coming along nice
Good to see kit bashing is still done. We need more projects seen in the works.
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Good job Eric !!................on your next chassis, while in the jig, put some equal sized gears/wheels etc. on the left and right of each axle. prior to gluing .......this will ensure that both front and rear axles are on the same plane, and parallel with the track surface.......do not assume that resting the bottom of the chassis on a flat surface will result in the axles being parallel with the jig surface.
Cheers
Chris Walker
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By the way, After taking the video tour of the famous skunk works shop, I'm glad to see that Mr Harry, is a fan of Harbor Freight. I think for modeling, the tools you need are good enough. I do have the little cut off saw for cutting brass, and it does work great. The nice thing is, if it breaks, buy another one.
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Ok, so i have the square tube epoxied in.
I let it set for 24 hours, and then cut on the band saw.
I cleaned and de burred the ends , and took a small rat tail file to the inside of the tube. By the way, I only made 1 cut. I then went to the grinder, and fine tuned the distance i needed.
Then, moved on to the inner tube that will support the outer tube. I put a little super glue. in the larger tube to help hold the smaller tube. I made the inner tube as long as possible. I measured from post to post it was spot on.
For the Barracuda, the amount removed from a Pioneer mustang chassis is the small piece that seperates the 2 magnet slots.
Then put frog tape under chassis, and threw some more epoxy to it. I'm planning on a digital car, so I put the magnet in before I epoxied the chassis back together.
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