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  • Adding weight

    Looking to experiment with adding weight to some cars – was looking for some advice, tips, etc.

    Running Slot.it Group C cars (no magnets) on unpainted Carrera track (plans to paint in the future) – course length about 50’, no grades, not using boarders. I am using a single PM controller and a single crossing to use both lanes. I like how the cars drift a bit (they are seriously fun) – but I’m curious as to how they might handle with a bit more weight (i.e. braking, etc.). Tips on where to add and how much to start with would be helpful. I see they have sticky backs - is it best to use this or perhaps a few dabs of shoe goo so they can be removed/adjusted (assume the sticky stuff is stronger than the shoe goo)?

    Probably looking at Professor Motor or NSR weight – but I’m open to suggestions. I see they come in different thicknesses but no weights are given – is there more information this?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Running Quick Slicks - Firm

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    • #3
      My son did an experiment when he was in junior high with slot cars and weight. He was looking for the affect weight had on lap times. As the weight was added 1/4 oz at a time laps were run. He really needed to add a LOT of weight before there was any appreciable effect on laps times. We might have had much different results if we used a drag race instead.

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      • #4
        Slot.It Grp C cars are terrific. We take them out of the box, loosen the pod and body screws about 1/2 turn (depends on the model), and let 'em rip. I have tuned a few of mine a bit more (front axle height, some rear body clearances on Lancias, taped some pods) but by and large they are pretty good without any weight at all.
        No tire wars.....but I will say that QS are super fast for 3-5 laps and then drop off. All silicones do, once they are dirty. Don't confuse dirty tires with needing weight, especially when running silicones.

        Watch what the car is doing. If I add weight I tend to start on the sides of the chassis just in front of the rear wheels, to increase bite. If it's really tail happy, keep the weight forward under the front axle if possible.

        Personally.....I try not to add weight at all. Slot.It cars don't really need much.
        But the Carerra cars were hugely improved by lead behind the front axle, otherwise they were just super tail-happy.
        Come Race at The Trace!
        Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN

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        • #5
          There really isn't a single correct answer.
          Your mileage will vary depending on track surface, how smooth that track was built, undulations if any, daily track temperature, type of tyre of course, and other factors.

          We have run these stock-ish-blueprinted for years - soft braid, grub screws for front axle height, glue and true with good rubber, loose pods, body float, maybe a few extra spacers around pod and body area, and set the gear mesh using axles spacers, so the contrate doesn't load up in curves.
          But all still pretty basic stuff, easy for beginners, not much extra cost for parts; and it is THE beginners class at most clubs I race at. - All high grip wood tracks.
          Then someone changed the rules for our "nationals" and allowed weight.

          I have since re-jigged about 6 of mine. The best two, being a competitive car at the Nats, and a new Toyota 86c - which is now my fastest.

          Much as I really wanted to keep this class unweighted as they do go really well "stock" - some weight has helped.

          We wouldn't be adding a 1/4 oz at a time in experiments (7 grams), more like 7 - 9 grams total.
          I am using about 4 grams right around the guide, to keep the nose planted as you accelerate out of turns - especially at low speed, as we have enough grip to lift the nose right out of the slot on first finger jerk, even with pancake flat, soft, thin braid, and another 4 or 5 grams in the middle of the pod.

          If I went to a track where it didn't behave, I would experiment with
          - moving that pod weight to the rear of the pod
          - moving it to the chassis either side of the pod
          - Moving it high - on top of the motor (ala what Smokieo was doing in proxies a few years back)
          - Then try say 3 grams more or less, starting with original position and repeating.

          After 3 or 4 combinations, you get a feel for where the car is heading for balance/grip/stability, and can usually get the weight 95% in say a 15 minute session.
          (which is all you may be able to get for practice in an away situation)

          When I got to run one on plastic, I was surprised at how well they coped with the bumpy surface - both texture and joints, but nothing like as fast around corners; and these were unweighted.
          I was dying to see what some weight would have done for the handling, but it was someone else's parade, I was just a guest.

          I also have a set of 4 Porsche 962 house class cars with lights and H&R Jack Rabbit 14k motors for non-slotters to use.
          I have them set heavy - like 12- 14 grams weight (about half an oz) and they are bricks on track and hard to deslot with those low power motors on 12v.
          Last edited by LegOutOfBed; February 13, 2020, 06:00 AM.

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          • #6
            I like using lead sheets for weight, cut it to fit and shoe goo it in. Most of my cars are sidewinders and filling the motor pod with a thin sheet of lead just in front of the motor seems to work pretty good.

            I guy told me one time that good handling is the perfect combination between roll and slide. If your car is rolling to much you need weight down low to get more slide. If's it's sliding to much you need weight up high to get more roll. I have glued weight to the under side of the roof and it helped reduce slide.

            But every car is different. Test and tune.
            Butch

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            • #7
              [QUOTE=waxgroove;n22438]I see they have sticky backs - is it best to use this or perhaps a few dabs of shoe goo so they can be removed/adjusted (assume the sticky stuff is stronger than the shoe goo)?
              shoe goo is miles better.

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              • #8
                If you are running without traction magnets most cars will benefit from some added weight. I have never had any luck getting more grip by adding weight higher up. Years ago some of the proxy cars that I examined did have some weight on top of or on the sides of the motor, but I have not seen that for some time. If your car wants to deslot in the middle of a corner it probably needs a small amount of weight down low just behind the front axle. Every car is different, even examples of the same make and model. You might hit the ideal combination with one car and build a duplicate car as a backup. It is very likely that you would have to do some further tuning on the second car.

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                • Giddyup
                  Giddyup commented
                  Editing a comment
                  So true! No two cars, even identical ones may react the same way

              • #9
                Add what you need to make the car perform to your liking. Here’s a link to what we mostly use. We also use a lot of golf tape thats used for weighting clubs.
                https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/pmtr1047.htm
                Scott.....War Eagle River......Tampa, Florida, USA

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